Sparky's winter/spring/summer/autumn work

That linkage setup looks fantastic and the results you have got using it sound brilliant too!

I may need to revisit my seesaw setup, after having the car off the road for longer than I would have liked during the lt77 swap (over a year!) and getting the thing rolling again in the last few weeks I have found the throttle too stiff compared to my rv8 powered defender which is regular cable actuation. Seems one method or the other may be preferable for good throttle feel, and not the 50/50 linkage/cable as I have...
 
I do remember the see saw set up you used but couldn't find it - thought it may offer a bit of inspiration.

I haven't driven it much with this system as I don't think I am allowed to go out with it now :hmm: The old system was stiff and not too responsive, basically akin to having a bath sponge under the pedal, but now it is light and controllable. Very glad I did the work, but it was a lot more involved than I thought :confused:
 
From Previous page: Thanks for the update on the rubber boot that fits into the trans tunnel!, Rear Caliper rebuilds turned out well! :)

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Half hour drive in the rain roday, and the wipers stop working :mad:

Everything else works, but no wipers.

Opened the bonnet, and found the wiper motor had tried to escape and was attempting to do a runner.

 
I tried to work out how this had happened but it just looks like the nut had come loose and the worm drive had worked its way out of the tube far enough to get jammed at the first junction near the offside wiper

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I had to get some new mounting rubbers as it tore two of them apart

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All working perfectly now though :)

When I was at it, I thought I would get the washers to work properly once and for all. I had bought one of these to fit under the bottle as I couldn't get the original to work, and it would look original being it was out of sight :) . It didn't last too long so I ended up buying another one which didn't last long either :(

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I found a new one designed for a P6, on ebay but it was very expensive, so I stripped down the original pump, cleaned it all up, rubbed down the surfaces to remove the rust, put a bit of oil on the spindle, then rebuilt it.

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Hit the switch, and..... nothing.

I bought the one on ebay :rolleyes: and now it works perfectly.

Then this.......

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There did seem to a lot of water in there :oops:

I have decided, as he's off the road anyway, to get rid of the RP4 cam and get one more suitable to the lighter manual car. I lost a family member a little while ago and was left a few bob on the proviso that I spent it on something I wanted, and not just put it in the bank. So, cam it is.

After a lot of discussions and research, I have decided to go for the V8D special grind stealth cam. It's right on the limit of needing the pistons pocketed, so they need to come out. I would have probably gone for a lower lift one without the need for piston work if not for the current situation :( but as I have nothing but time, and the engine is now the only piece of the car I haven't rebuilt, it's out and ready to come apart.
 
That's an exciting project. Before you strip the bottom end you could always install the new cam, and with a couple of light valve springs check the piston clearance with the compressed gasket you have. It may be that you don't need to cut the pistons. Then again you may wish to raise the CR to make the best of the cam, so that might tighten things up.
You are on a slippery slope now ........... :)
 
You are on a slippery slope now ........... :)

My wallet is still in therapy from the diff rebuild :oops:

hmmm.. unfortunately the cam is going to be a while due to V8D being so busy, and the pistons are one of the first things to get done. I can get the pistons pocketed, bottom end balanced, block all cleaned up and shiny, oil pick up and sump back on, clutch back on with gearbox, and pretty much ready to go back into the car before the cam gets here.
 
Also you'll be wanting to modify your bonnet slam panel so that you don't have to lift the engine and gearbox up any higher than the front crossmember when you reinstall them. Hours of fun drilling out spot welds, welding up the holes in the slam panel and bashing it back to some semblance of 'flat' again afterwards, and then installing Rivnuts. :cool:
 
I understand there is a very thin line between windscreen washer motor and engine rebuild. Thanks for letting us know. It seems also that you have all the right excuses.
 
Also you'll be wanting to modify your bonnet slam panel so that you don't have to lift the engine and gearbox up any higher than the front crossmember when you reinstall them. Hours of fun drilling out spot welds, welding up the holes in the slam panel and bashing it back to some semblance of 'flat' again afterwards, and then installing Rivnuts. :cool:

Nope, not happening :)

I understand there is a very thin line between windscreen washer motor and engine rebuild. Thanks for letting us know. It seems also that you have all the right excuses.

When asked to describe myself in one word, I replied, "Doesn't follow instructions well and tends to get carried away when bored :) " besides, a motor is a motor :D
 
Me neither :)

I used to have a T Shirt which said, "Describe yourself in one word" then underneath in answer, "Doesn't follow instructions well." :)

I like my silly T Shirts.
 
That certainly escalated! Engine looks lovely and clean inside :thumb:

Things do seem to get out of hand here :oops: I was pleasently surprised at how clean it is. The engine was put in there originally in 2005, but has only done 20,000 miles since new and I have looked after it.

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Richard
Please tell us what valve stem seals you are running on that engine ? I cannot seem to see any.
Also what is your oil change regime ? For a 20k engine that looks so clean many here would benefit from the knowledge.
 
Hi Mark

No idea what the seals are, I have stripped the engine now and will get some piccies of the seals later but I can tell you, there are some on there :)

I use the classic oils, like Castrol or Halfords in the green tins, change it once a year if I have done any mileage. I did install a PCV system very early on in my ownership of the car, so that may have helped

Not quite so clean it here though.

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These are the stage 1 heads which came fitted when I bought the car.

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I am not an expert of staged heads, but there seems to be a lot of work done in there for a stage one?
 
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