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Sparky's winter/spring/summer/autumn work

Discussion in 'Members Projects' started by quattro, Dec 19, 2009.

  1. quattro

    quattro Well-Known Member

    A while ago, when searching for a slight rumble on the N/S front, I changed the wheel bearings to find there were some score marks around the stub axle under where the inner bearing sat. This allowed the inner bearing to rock slightly on the axle. I don't actually know for certain if this caused the slight rumble, but decided, against advice from this forum to bond the inner race on :rolleyes:

    This did make a difference, it got louder. Then, a long time later, I found a N/S upright in a scrap yard. They said they would take it off for me and I could pick it up whenever I wanted. When I got there they showed me this, in the pic below, and apart from the pickling of the paint, it looked perfect. So, I asked them if they had a N/S one :oops::rolleyes:


    Anyhoo, two hours later and covered in mud, grease and blood, I had the correct one. After a good clean up, I put a new set of bearings on it and they fit perfectly, although I can't quite get it off at the moment :)


    I haven't fitted it yet
  2. harveyp6

    harveyp6 Well-Known Member

    Ah, the old "N/S" "O/S" problem again.... Still I doubt you would have fared any better if you had asked for a LH one....
  3. quattro

    quattro Well-Known Member

    Next job, now I have finally got around to starting it is: -


    I really wanted a 2.88 LSD jag diff, but couldn't find one anywhere, so ended up bidding on entire axle on ebay. Surprisingly, I won the auction :) I can't remember how long I've had this and don't have many ideas on how to fit it yet (some but not many). I have however, taken it apart



    Diff out and ready to fit (ok it needs cleaning and perhaps an internal inspection) :)



    Anyone want any of this lot, make me an offer

  4. quattro

    quattro Well-Known Member

    I did actually check that it was the passenger side one before I went over, but his assurance didn't actually seem to be that confident, so I checked when I got there:)
  5. quattro

    quattro Well-Known Member

    I've got the calipers off, along with the discs, which are basically scrap :( (the discs, not the calipers). They were very fiddly to get at, heaven knows how difficult they are to get off when they are still on the car. I'll be rebuilding the calipers, new pads and discs so I can hopefully fit and forget. Then half an hour with a wire brush, and it looks like this:-


    The rear cover is off and I've had a delve inside. Turn the input pinion by hand and both output shafts turn smoothly and freely. Catch hold of one of the output shafts, and try to turn the other one, and I can't. Lock one of them with a bar and then try to turn the other with a two foot long bar, and I can do it but there is a good resistance and everything is very smooth with no roughness at all. I have turned the crown wheel round a few times and carefully inspected it, no chips or marks on any of the teeth. All seems well with that, within my limited knowledge of diffs, so I'll cover it up for now and fit it as it is when I'm ready :)


    I've also managed to get Sparky up on four ramps, so I can get underneath and start measuring and making plans of how to fit the diff. The ramps are all the same height, so any angles I'll be measuring should be the same. I hope :)


    Now, there is a a sensor on the back of the diff. Anyone knows what it does and do I need it?

  6. harveyp6

    harveyp6 Well-Known Member

    I guessed it's for the speedo, and a quick google would seem to confirm that.
  7. Gargo

    Gargo Active Member

    Not sure what Jag used the sensor is for.
    But, the diff will put your gearbox driven speedo out of calibration. Ever since fitting a Jag diff, whcih also has this sensor and if I get round to it, I'll make an electronic speedo that runs off this sensor. So keep it in there and I'll get back to you. :eek:

    Good luck fitting the diff, you'll enjoy it once fitted.

    If you have a torque wrench, see if you can measure the torque required to start the diff slipping? It sounds like you still have a fairly tight diff. See Tightening the LSD

  8. quattro

    quattro Well-Known Member

    Cheers Harvey, I was thinking along the lines of it registering slip, but speedo seems a lot more probable.

    Hi Gav, at the moment, the speedo reads 70, when I am doing 70. It is absolutely spot on. With the new diff it will read 70 when I am doing 75, so I will be sending it back to the place that recalibrated it when the LT77 went in. My son has my torque wrenches at the moment, but I'll have them back shortly, and will test the breakaway torque. I was down at Santa Pod recently and did have an urge to try out Sparky down the track at one of their "Run what you brung" events, but would be rather nervous to truly open him up bearing in mind I need to drive home :)

    2453kevinowen likes this.
  9. quattro

    quattro Well-Known Member

    I know I'm jumping the gun here, but I've been looking at brake bias proportioning valves. There's some real cheapies, which I'll not bother with, some from Wilwood at around £50 or so, OBP which look to have the same manufacturer, Tilton ones at just over £100, and some really expensive ones.

    Anyone use any of these, are the Wilwood ones reliable?

  10. cobraboy

    cobraboy Well-Known Member

    On another car I fitted a cheap one and on applying the brakes they stayed on ! needless to say it went in the bin. I then fitted this one which has been good for a number of years. I have it tucked up under the dash.

    Tilton Knob Type Proportioning Valve UNF Threads

    Your build thread is excellent reading.
    DavidWalker likes this.
  11. quattro

    quattro Well-Known Member

    Cheers Mark, that's the Tilton one I was looking at. I will have think on that - it's not urgent.

    Thank you, I can't believe I started this in 2009 :) Where did those years go? :eek:
    DavidWalker likes this.
  12. Gargo

    Gargo Active Member

    We've fitted the Tilton knob type too and I'm totally happy with it. Once you get the balance correct, the balance sensitivity to adjustment is impressive.

    Keep going....
    DavidWalker likes this.
  13. corazon

    corazon Well-Known Member

    Although not fully realised, I decided on a CPP dual master cylinder with built in proportioning valve as opposed to separate units. It's very unique in that respect and it just made things neater and easier, well it better!..
    Probably not that useful for you as its a fairly sizeable dual circuit master
    Otherwise my money was going to go on a Wilwood, I've not heard of any problems with them
    They're simple designs so the choice is more about build quality I would think
  14. quattro

    quattro Well-Known Member

    Right, prop is off, driveshafts, brakes removed, and diff is out and on the bench. Prior to removing anything, I measured the angle the diff sits at and found it to be 1.2 degrees. I was under the impression that it should be 5 degrees like the engine, so that the propshaft flanges are parallel. This is apparently to avoid vibration. I also measure the angle of the engine, i.e. the gearbox flange and found it to be 3.2 degrees :confused:.


    Rear seats removed to gain access to the crossmembers


    Here's the space for the new diff, driveshafts tied up out of the way.


    I've measured the distance back to the boot wall from the centre of the drive shaft flanges and also upwards to the base unit. To ensure I am measuring to the same place when I fit the new diff, I put some white dots on the surfaces I measured to. This should enable me to make sure the new diff is in exactly the same place.

    I've made up a small wooden base and screwed the new diff onto it at an angle of 5 degrees. I made this up before measuring the old one, so was still under the impression that it would be 5 degrees and not 1.2. I have also bolted a 5mm steel plate to the top of the diff, so I can take a measurement from the box section I am using to the diff.


    The aim is to work out where the diff will bolt onto the bracket I have made up. It is basically a 50mm thick walled box section which will mount onto the original diff mounting rubbers. Then forward from this is the top section of a 150mm thick wall box section which fits into two slots cut into the 50mm - if that makes sense. Here's a pic. The top section is just held in place with a small bolt at the moment, but when I get the angle right (I can adjust the angle and also the forward position of the diff by sliding the top section backwards or forwards), I will weld it in position. I had to buy a new jack to lift it into position as my current one only has a very small pad and being under the car, with this very heavy item, I feel a lot safer with this one, although I am very careful not to get under the diff :eek:


    The box section has some pilot holes in the right place for the diff mounts, but I found I don't have a suitable drill bit to make them the right size for the 7/16 bolts, so I'll have to wait until I get one now. Then it's just another trial fit, so I can work out how far along the top section to drill the holes for the diff

    Jacked into position to where hopefully it will sit for many years to come :). I just need to remake the wooden frame so it sits at 1.2 degrees, then check it points in the right direction.

    Diff in place.jpg

    The mdf is just there for measuring purposes :cool: I won't be hanging the diff from it.

    I have made some quick measurements from disc bake to disc brake, i.e. where the half shafts bolt onto and it looks like I will need to shorten the driveshafts by around 2.8 cm each.

    That's it for now - feel free to offer advice or comments as I am making most of this up as I go along :)

    roverp5Bcoupe likes this.
  15. corazon

    corazon Well-Known Member

    Looking good Richard.
    So you are planning to pick up the front mounting on the base unit rear seat hump crossmember area? I've seen one other part-finished install using that with triangulated links, I think it's a Scandinavian car from memory..
    Remember the jag diffs generally have 5 or 6 degrees milled into the top mounting face.
    Nice that you've got the stock alloy finned cover
  16. quattro

    quattro Well-Known Member

    Cheers Jim

    I am going to fix into the crossmember running across between the springs, third picture down in the last post, next to the exhaust hanger. You can see where I've removed the plug to have a look inside. I am also going to extend the brackets forward somehow to the next crossmember, just to give a bit of extra support for the twisting of the diff. I have no idea yet as to how to do that, but do have some flat plate and some 19mm box section :)

    I did raise the front of the diff so the top was level, and the input flange was 5 degrees. I thought my luck was in then, until I measured the flange at 1.2 :cool:

    Plenty to do to it yet
  17. corazon

    corazon Well-Known Member

    Sounds good, that's where it looked like you were going for. Here's the photo I was thinking about, you may have seen it through your research?


    Keep up the measured work!
  18. quattro

    quattro Well-Known Member

    Yes, I have seen that one and like the idea of turning the car over to fit it :). I wouldn't want to modify the base unit as much as that though, just in case I ever wanted to return it to standard.

    I did wonder how he was going to get those bolts done up to hold the lower shock mount :eek:

  19. corazon

    corazon Well-Known Member

    Hopefully they were dummy masking bolts for painting. The photo must be a good few years old, makes you wonder where certain projects have got to
  20. Phil Robson

    Phil Robson Well-Known Member

    This all looks very impressive Richard. Unfortunately most of it goes over my head; I have enough on just doing things as ‘standard’....:D

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