Sparky's winter/spring/summer/autumn work

I have a vague idea it's around 3 bar, but not sure.

On another note - I used to have the old fuel pump relay wired into the back of the rocker switch for the heated rear window. It just fired the relay. Thing is, I pulled the wires off the switch to get rid of any wires that were no longer needed, but forgot to note where they went :oops:

Anyone enlighten me?

Cheers

Richard
 
Good one! Saw this on lr4x4 and thought I'd pop over here to check.

With the car running and Tunerstudio open you will be able to see the hunting if you open the fuel table. The dot that shows which cell you are running in is likely running around in a circle through various cells, try setting these cells to the same value and it should calm down a bit. I have a group of cells around idle that are all the same for this reason.
 
It stops now, and the throttle is easier.

Tuning will start soon, but to be honest I might just have a rest for a while :)
 
There's a video in my second last post - takes a while to load though.

Photobucket wouldn't load the whole thing though, but I did manage to load it onto (Look away if you're squeamish) farcebook :eek:
 
Last night I removed the injector loom and wrapped it up all nice and black, then reinstalled it. That's a fiddly job. Then pulled the plug on the ECU and wrapped a bit of it, mainly getting it into place so it could all be hidden under carpets. I was advised to install a diode into the light warning wire from the alternator. Failure to do this would mean that the engine would keep on running after the engine was turned off. Duly installed, the engine kept running anyway :oops:. I fitted the diode into the small wire from the 3 pin plug and hey presto, the ignition would turn the engine off. I really wasn't happy with this mainly because I have no idea what that wire is supposed to do and didn't know what would it would do if a one way valve was introduced. So, last night, out it came and went back to normal.

That's basically all I did last night.

Tonight, had the disc with tuning software so popped out to the garage. Would it start, would it hell :mad:

I did notice that the fuel pump wasn't working so I spent nearly two hours checking wiring, relays, more wiring, and ended up convinced that the ECU was playing up. I removed it, took the top off and found that the socket was slightly out of line inside, so looked into the socket from the outside and found this
bender_zpsacffaadn.JPG

A fun night :cool:
 
I don't have a laptop with a serial port, so I had to buy an adaptor to plug into the USB port. Now, I'm not that computer literate, so I didn't know that you needed a driver for this adaptor :rolleyes:

Most of last night was spent messing about with the trying to get the ECU to talk to the laptop, but finally it worked. Too late to actually do any tuning, but one more bit done, and one more piece of information learned :)

 
Very carefully unbent the pin, and then refitted it to the ECU with the top off, just to ensure it didn't push the socket back into the ECU. Put the screws in to hold it, and am not going to remove it again :). Hit the starter and he started straight away. Still hunting but I'm managing to get a better understanding of the system now so should be able to sort that bit. I have managed to complete the underbonnet wiring, including tidying it all up and wrapping the loom. Just need to relocate the washer bottle, and hopefully get an MOT :)





Inside, I have to just finish the last three feet of the loom wrapping, then get it all tucked away and refit the front seat, so getting exciting now :)

There is a bit of a problem with the MSQ file (the starting point for tuning), but hopefully this will be sorted soon, and I can get driving.

As usual when fitting/refitting stuff I have some bits left over. This bit came with the EDIS 8 module, anyone know what it is/does? Should I have fitted it?



and these came in the kit, anyone know what they are? or where they should go?

IMG_2971.JPG

Cheers all

Richard
 
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I have managed to get the interior back in, with all the new wiring loom hidden away nicely. The ECU is under the passenger seat, the puter cable is still plugged into it as you can see

back_zpsm1jtyaxn.JPG

IMG_4471_zpskh90w878.JPG

IMG_4472_zps9k5qc1ju.JPG

All finished under here, although I have a small water leak which is being very elusive, I'll get the little bugger!!



Set the ECU to run at 10 degrees, but the strobe says 8, so a little fettling to do tomorrow.

The chap I got it from has sent me a basic set up for the 4.oL so I have used that as a starting point. Managed to get the tickover to 800rpm with an AFR of 13.5 - 14, so getting there, albeit rather slowly.

I had managed to put the radiator back in on top of one of the relay wires for the headlamps, that took a while to find, and get the inner headlights working again :mad:
Never mind, it will all be working shortly :)
 
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All very drool worthy ! a car to lust after.
Seeing your interior really informs me as to why I prefer series 2 interior looks and the reason I purchased mine.

Graeme
 
Looking very good! If you are using a narrowband oxygen sensor then dont take what the afr gauge says on Tunerstudio too seriously, as all the NB will be able to tell is whether it's rich or lean, not by how much.

Without a wideband I'd recommend that you tune fuel for highest idle speed/ maximum vacuum and then go a tiny bit leaner. Trust your nose too! If it smells rich it probably is.
 
Hi Quagmire

I do actually have a WB which I fitted back when I was tuning the Weber. It's not connected to the Tunerstudio so runs completely independent to any tuning I am doing.

It's fitted just under the collector on the N/S header so doesn't give an overall figure, but plenty good enough to ensure I don't run too lean. Gauge is on the dashboard.

Family meet up this weekend so no playing :(

Richard
 
Good stuff! Tuning with a WB is the only way to go :) mine is in the passenger side downpipe and also seems to be ok there. These days with the cost of Widebands having come down it makes no sense to drive around with a narrowband to try to tune, its so much quicker with a wideband that that fuel savings alone must justify it.

Wiring it into the MS will allow you to do auto tuning (VE analyse live "VEAL") on the fuelling which is really nice, as well as automatic tuning of the warmup enrichment curve. Biggest thing when doing it is making sure you have no ground offsets, the way to avoid this is to ground the sensor signal earth to the MS, which is all covered online in various places.
 
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