SD1 alloys for four cylinder cars?

typonaut said:
Do the SD1 alloys fit four cylinder P6s, specifically a 1975 2200SC?

Thanks
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I believe by then the rear leading arms had the kink in them like the V8’s. So the alloys should fit. I’m sure someone will confirm for us shortly.
 
Big aspect to note in this.The P6 wheels are centered by the tapers on the nuts and the rim, where the SD1 wheels are centered on the hubs, the rear axles having cups on them to do this. To get the SD1 wheels to centre you need to use the nut shanks through the wheel to be true and well fitting. Good luck getting good nuts. I had to get two batches of nuts from US - Lexus 7/16 UNF - to get enough with threads true to the shank. The shanks are milled to retain the thick washers, and these didnt go through the hole in the wheel centre - mounted a 7/16 UNF bolt in lathe, turned the milled off, which also made the out-of-true very obvious, although is was obvious to the naked eye. Replacing the front hub dust caps with SD1 units will help to clear the wheel. Not having these I turned the flange on the P6 dust caps down a little so they cleared the small ledge on the inside of the wheel. Have been up to 75mph without vibration, so the centering is pretty good. At least the SD1 wheels are the same offset.
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Strongly recommend getting original SD1 nuts!
 
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So I need a set of wheels and a matching set of wheel nuts? I can see a couple of sets on eBay, but one set for Vandenplas and the other for Vitesse - just for different style wheels?
 
I doubt the nuts changed with the different spec wheel models, but suggest you insist on matching nuts. Before you commit to wheels check that your rear upper links have the kink needed to clear bigger tyres.
 
If you get matching nuts, i.e. from an actual SD1, you'll need the SD1 studs as well as they're M12, and the P6 ones are 7/16".
 
Oops, I forgot that detail.....Well, just get 7/16 UNF nuts as local as you can , so if they are crap you can return them, or give the seller a blast.
 
I have purchased the following nuts from MisteR Tee in 2022, but yet to fit. From a quick check they are a tight fit in the SD1 alloys, so should be good for wheel centering. (I already had 13 nuts available)

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Ok, so it looks like the easiest method is to get some special nuts… if anyone has them… but still not clear if the alloys will fit anyway – what am I looking for on the trailing arms that will confirm one way or the other.

As an aside, are the standard nuts a mix of metric a/f and imperial thread? I ask because I changed a wheel the other day, and none of the sockets on my standard "spider" fitted. So, I tried an 11/16th and that was too small, and a 3/4 but that was too big. Ended up with 18mm which seemed perfect.
 
@typonaut The four cylinder P6 had straight rear trailing arms joining the top of the DeDion 'elbows' to the sides of the boot. The V8 P6s were fitted with slightly 'kinked' trailing arms, which provide just a bit more clearance for the inner edge of the rear wheels. If you crawl under the back of your car you'll be able to see if your trailing arms are dead straight, or each have a slight bend in.
If you're under there and having poke about, now is a good time to see if the DeDion elbows are in good solid condition, and if the mounting points for the trailing arms to the boot are still solid. Both the 'elbows' and the trailing arm rear mounting points are known to corrode, and should be checked regularly!
 
mrtask said:
@typonaut The four cylinder P6 had straight rear trailing arms joining the top of the DeDion 'elbows' to the sides of the boot. The V8 P6s were fitted with slightly 'kinked' trailing arms, which provide just a bit more clearance for the inner edge of the rear wheels. If you crawl under the back of your car you'll be able to see if your trailing arms are dead straight, or each have a slight bend in.
If you're under there and having poke about, now is a good time to see if the DeDion elbows are in good solid condition, and if the mounting points for the trailing arms to the boot are still solid. Both the 'elbows' and the trailing arm rear mounting points are known to corrode, and should be checked regularly!
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The later Series II cars had the same
Kinked leading arms for the rear suspension on all models. Also if the car had optional rostyles with 185 profile tyres it came so equipped (my 1969 2000TC is one)
 
I dunno if they're trailing arms, or leading arms !?!? :rolleyes:
So did all the Series II cars get the kinky arms then?
 
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