Scarab the Rover..

I have an LT77 as well....My lever at the master cyl is attached with a bolt through the clevis. I changed the master to a new 0.625" bore type (std is 0.7"), and found that the clevis had a nut welded on it that the bolt fitted. The bolt was quite worn so I replaced it - doesnt take much wear to affect the travel. I cant imagine how they expected anybody to get a split pin or clip on the back of the clevis with the assembly in the car. I have used the std slave cylinder, spaced 1/4 off the bell housing - no problems with pedal travel or take up. Std SD1 pushrod. Note that there are 3 different lengths of pivot bolt, and 2 lengths of throwout bearing carrier.
 
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I use an 'R' clip, easy to get in and out with a pair of point nose pliers. No faffing about spreading or closing the legs of the split pin.
 
I use an 'R' clip, easy to get in and out with a pair of point nose pliers. No faffing about spreading or closing the legs of the split pin.
I also have the R clip - I got it off ok but try as I may I could not get dame thing back in the space I had! Hats off to you I just gave up trying in end!
 
The clutch pedal on my work van has the same freeplay as the Rover pedal!

Maybe it's normal! Im still going to come up with a solution to stiffen it up a little more and keep a little play there.
 
SD1. Together with the SD1 3 piece clutch kit. As mentioned, I don't have any issues with the biting point (halfway) and it changes gear easily.
 
Car is for sale. I've tried everything i can and cannot get it to Start when it's hot.

Before you go on about vapour and spark, that's all good.

I've had enough. I can't fix it and I just want to get rid of it.
 
:( After all that work! I can happily recommend a capable mechanic who could most likely sort that issue out for you!
 
With all respect Harvey I have spent many hours and a great deal of expense to build my dream car. I have tried everything that has been suggested to me to build this car. I have asked for advice along the way and have tried to achieve what I want.

But I have asked everyone to help me as I don't know what the answer is. I've come to the point where I would love to drive the car but I can't fix it.

So as you say it isn't going to be a problem for someone who knows what they are are doing. That isn't me.

Are you putting your name forward to come and fix it at my expense? Seem to know how to fix it when 100's of others clearly don't?
 
Nope, but you've been offered other recommendations, if you choose not to take those up, then sell the car, I won't lose any sleep over that.
On the first of September this year I will have been working on them for fifty years and I've had enough of spannering after all that, so I think I'm entitled to leave it to someone else.
 
:( After all that work! I can happily recommend a capable mechanic who could most likely sort that issue out for you!

Yes and I appreciate it.

However there is nobody close by that can solve it. This car is causing me a nightmare. Im fed up with climbing under it all the time. Im at the point where I have had enough.
 
Nope, but you've been offered other recommendations, if you choose not to take those up, then sell the car, I won't lose any sleep over that.

All the "experts " that have given me recommendations have been wrong.

It seems that the Internet experts are wrong. Nobody is willing to stand in front of the car and talk to me.
 
You do need someone who knows what they are looking at standing in front of the car, so instead of throwing money at the car yourself, find that person and pay someone to take the car there, or if you have breakdown cover, get the car as far away from your house as possible, call them out, and get it recovered to their premises.
 
I asked this question. And yes like a muppet this was on Facebook. Everyone there is an expert. My massive mistake.

I listen to you Harvey. I don't question your knowledge. Its just that I am so frustrated that I don't have the fight anymore.
 
Sleep on it, get the phone number from Mr task, and give the guy a call on Monday and see what he says. He may have transportation available. If it's who I think it is he's been repairing rovers for years, so if you want someone in front of the car who knows what he's looking at, then he's a good bet.
 
After a break from the car i decided to look at a way to lower the engine bay temp so have fitted an electric fan. I decided to fit the largest one that would on the rad. I've managed to fit a 14" fan which does generate a good air flow.

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It has been wired through a relay with a 20A fused in the circuit.

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It has also had an override switch fitted inside the car which can switch on and off with the ignition on/off.

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Im going to test drive the car hopefully tomorrow.
 
For modern traffic and the sort of summers we’re seeing in U.K. I think it’s such a good idea to have a decent electric fan installed. And a 14 inch is a good size. It is also such a good idea to have an override switch fitted, to me a must have! I have been to so many events, especially in the April May start of season and seen 2 or 3 classics that had electric fans (as well as a couple BL cars (Allegro and 70s princess) that had electric fans as standard fitment, overheating on arrival which were due to the thermostatic switches decided to not work and remain open circuit. So the extra insurance of an override switch is just such a good thing to do. I have modified my friends BL cars to give them peace of mind.

One thing I would also add is that the extra load of the fan on the charging circuit may require an alternator that has a bigger output- 35amp standard one might struggle a little. I fitted a 65amp just to give plenty capacity though obviously cannot see it ever getting near that!

Dave
 
I have thought about the alternator being low power but we put an amp clamp on the cable and it was drawing 11 amp. In the summer it's unlikely you'd need anything else running so could be trouble. In the winter the car stays in the garage so that wouldn't be an issue. I can only monitor it and take it from there.
 
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