Scarab the Rover..

I think you could be right. This maybe related to rough idle and black plugs.

Pulse air? Have got a clue.

Brake servo goes to valve on the manifold in the same place as the SU manifold
Brakes are fine.

It is a 500 carb, jetted for the 3.5.

So I'm suggesting blanking the carb at the back and fitting a breather to the crankcase pipe at the back of the block.

Let me get better pics tomorrow of the carb with the air filter removed.
 
quattro said:
Sorry to say this, and I may be wrong, but that really doesn't look right to me.

What are the pulse air rails?

That rear port on the Weber is usually for the brake servo and creates a great deal of suction. If you have that connected straight to the crankcase without a PVC valve or restrictor of some kind, it will mess up your AFR, throw your tickover out and throw a load oil into the engine.

Is there a port on the front, and is it a 500 Weber?
Click to expand...

Pulse air is an emissions cheat, also called secondary air injection. It pumps clean air into the exhaust port to clean up the emissions but is not without its problems.

Secondary air injection - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org
 
So my thinking is to blank that carb port off with a filter open to the air. Then stick a small round filter on the crankcase stub at the back of the block.

Thoughts please?
 
If you're drawing vacuum for the brake servo from the front of the intake manifold, can you not just blank off that other vacuum port at the back of the carb with a plug/bung, without the extra complication of adding a filter there? Then the crankcase can inhale through the same sort of small filter as you've depicted – albeit a fresh one with no oil in it!.
 
mrtask said:
If you're drawing vacuum for the brake servo from the front of the intake manifold, can you not just blank off that other vacuum port at the back of the carb with a plug/bung, without the extra complication of adding a filter there? Then the crankcase can inhale through the same sort of small filter as you've depicted – albeit a fresh one with no oil in it!.
Click to expand...

That was my 2nd suggestion. So yes, just blank that port off. Stick a filter on the crankcase vent and start the car and see what happens!
 
Yes, blank off that port, you don't want anything going in there. Just a filter on the rear crankcase and the t piece should go into the air box.

You may find that your tick over drops sharply, so you'll need to reset that.

This should work for you but isn't the best system tbh. It would keep the inside of your engine cleaner if you use some sort of PCV system.
 
Update. I have followed the advice given and fitted the filter to the crankcase and blocked the rear pipe connection on the carb.

Started the car in the garage yesterday and ran it up to temp. I've played around with the 2 mixture screws and idle screw. Car revs better I think and seems to idle around 800rpm at a guess as the rev counter has stopped working for some reason! I haven't taken the car for a run but I think it's an improvement.

Hopefully I can now get on with doing the interior over the next couple of weeks.
 
Hi ampwhu.
What gearlever gator are you using on your LT77 gearbox? as it looks to fit very well.
Thanks Paul.
 
I've not found a gearknob I like yet but I'll find one.

Gearstick gaitor is off an MGB. They are about £7. I glued it to the underside of the console and it's a good fit. Also it's flexible enough to select all gears. It's rather tough is the rubber.
 
That interior looks great nice job! It can certainly be a challenge finding an alternative gator when the LT77 box is fitted. I am told the original rover gator’s can handle the 5th gear movement- I tried newer ones as old one perished and none were supple enough. I spoke to and viewed a few club P6s that had been converted to LT77 and asked what they did-all had come up with own solutions and all seemed bespoke. But a couple used 70s and 80s Ford rubber gators (cortina and I think escort). So I kept it in mind and at an NEC Classic car event I found a gator on a secondhand stall which caught my eye - it was from a 1981 Ford fiesta- quite big and lots could and very flexible! And in great condition- paid my £10 for it and hoped it might work!
After a test I bit bullet and cut off all the coils from a new rubber gator- leaving just the base that moulds into the centre consul. I then put the Fiesta gator on and pulled excess through the rubber around the consul so just the coils showed and rest was tucked under consul - some trimming had to be done as some was showing through sides of the centre consul. But it worked a treat - you can’t see that the bottom rubber from P6 gator is just a surrround with a hole as Ford gator coils cover it and it is high enough to cover nearly to top of SD1 gearstick (cut down by 35-40mm and more thread added for gear knob). Happy with result! The search is over!

Dave
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4137.jpeg
    IMG_4137.jpeg
    2.3 MB · Views: 15
Here is my LT77 lever with a std lever boot. I had to shave the diameter of the bottom flange some 1/8" all around on the knob to enable getting the boot over it without cutting the rubber. No selection problems.
5gtNMnQ.jpeg



The lever top thread was 5/16 UN? , but by experiment at the hardware store with fully threaded rods I found the knob thread was M10x1.5, so the knob is just pushed down fully, and is tight enough to be secure. I cut a bit less than 1/2" off the thread so the knob flange just sits on the square section part of the lever.
 
Looks good JP928! That’s the original SD1 gear-lever I took it off my P6 and kept it in case wanted to refit but I found a knob I liked so decided not to put it back. Nice ebony nylon seats too!

Dave
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4541.jpeg
    IMG_4541.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 8
Hello all. Took the car for it's 1st long run yesterday and it drove effortlessly and smooth. Sitting at 70-75 on a dual carriageway, I could hardly hear the engine in 5th gear. It's a joy to drive. I couldn't say what the rpm was as the rev counter has decided to stop recently!

I do have one question though. Since I've started using it, the clutch pedal has developed some extra freeplay. So before I feel pressure on the pedal, it travels about 20% of its travel. When changing gear, I have no issues. That 20% of pedal travel isn't a problem but something tells me it's not right. There has been no fluid loss at all.

Would this improve the pedal if I bled the clutch again or is there a mechanical adjustment that can be made on the pedal to 'stiffen it up'? WM says there is a pedal stop behind the pedal arm. When I first fitted the new clutch system I don't recall having this issue.
 
I’d check pivots on the pedal first. A bleed wouldn’t harm things though. As you’ve had an LT77 gearbox fitted, I doubt the workshop manual would be appropriate as a guide for the clutch now.
 
Fair shout about the gearbox swap. The pedal and master cylinder are standard still so that side of things should be covered in the WM I would say.

I'll take a look and come back with what I find.
Thanks
 
Think I've found out what the issue is. Firstly, the freeplay is about 1" - 1.5"

Looking under the bonnet, I can see the play is on the pedal lever where a clevis pin goes through it to the clutch push rod fork. If I lift the lever it moves maybe 1/2" before engaging with the push rod. There is a clevis pin in there with a split pin. I think it needs a nut and bolt. I did fit a new clutch master cylinder so I've had this out before.

With no space, how the he'll do I get a nut and bolt in there???? Im almost certain the hole on the clutch push rod is 5/16".
 
Hi Ampwhu.

I had/have this same issue. I fitted a LT77 box out of a TR7 with a new clutch (Borg n Beck) and not long after using it I noticed I had to put clutch pedal right to the floor and it started to bite after a tiny lift of pedal - it was not right at all. There is a thread about this and clutch pedal height and LT77 box etc. I also found I not only had some free play about same as you are experiencing and saw some play at this same pin so I removed the pin to try and adjust it as per manual but the play is I think just there- I could not refit the pin clip (split pin) through the linkage pin - just found no room and impossible to find a way - without start to strip things out the way. I did get a right size bolt through it but getting a nylock nut on it once in the blind spot the inner wing side of the link - could not get turns on it and I was in trouble to be honest.
I managed to get enough on but for the nut to stay but was not great. I had to do a follower replacement and while had rockers and inlet manifold off etc I had more room and managed to get a very small open end spanner on to the nut by feeding the spanner in from the bulkhead side and then using socket with extension on the bolt head which is on the visible side of the link (using 1/4 inch drive) to get turns on with spanner in place locking the nut in position turning the bolt but it took me 30 plus attempts to get spanner on the nut as it’s not possible to see it in there and it was all by just feeling and trying time and again till I finally found nut in right spot and could use ratchet to turn bolt. I would never of touched that pin if I had known the pain it would give me!

If I were you I would look at slave cylinder to clutch pivot arm pushrod length - once clutch on mine bedded in a bit over just a few miles it seemed to loose some ‘effective travel’ so pushrod needed to be a bit longer to take up slack that seemed to be there thus meaning pedal was to the floor stop to change gear. I was lucky in that when my lt77 change was done years ago whoever did it made up an adjustable clutch push rod - see pic. It had a small amount of adjustment via a threaded part to rod so all I had to do was take slave cylinder off and loosen the lock button the modified rod lengthen the pushrod by a couple turns (I would say only 1/4 inch ish) tighten lock nut (see pic) and after testing (one more turn of I recall) clutch was perfect. The play at top of pedal is still there - it’s always been there and my friends v8 manual also has a bit of play and he runs 4 speed standard set up. I think pushrod is adjustable on 4 speed? Can’t recall. If your clutch is working ok and you have a good position biting point with no crunching and nice half inch or so of lift before it bites and good gear change - I would leave that pin and link well alone - the nice tight fitting bolt I put in really made no difference.
I believe depending on the pivot arm pivot length (JP928 did good write up and explanation on the 3 lengths used in LT77 box) it can effect pushrod length required. Plus if using P6 slave cylinder it might effect pushrod length I am only learning by own experience the LT77 conversion and clutch covered very well elsewhere.

Hope that’s helpful I did all this recently so it’s still fresh in my mind!
Oh and as has been said a second bleed worth a try if it’s spongy but does not sound like yours is and your pedal and clutch are doing job ok. I found 70mph is 2500 rpm and can hear engine but more road and cabin noise from wind! Still got door seals to do. As you say makes much better motorway cruising.


Dave
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3918.jpeg
    IMG_3918.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 8
Last edited:
Thanks Dave for the reply. As mentioned, biting point is fine and I have no problem changing gear. It's just that initial freeplay before I feel resistance.

I'll take a better look when time permits and come back.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top