Scarab the Rover..

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This morning I fitted an IV in the fuel line from the tank to the pump. This will make life easier if I have to remove the pump in the future. I drained around 10 litres out so I could replace the rubber fuel line.

The reserve pipe is still fitted and guess that has left around 7-8 litres in the tank? I can't remove the sender to check inside the tank until I've removed the remaining fuel.

Any suggestions?
 
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I've now fitted the IV and NRV in the fuel lines. So much easier now when removing the pump in future for servicing and getting to the filter. I've also fitted a new fuel pump which has a built in filter. 20250330_133643.jpg

I've turned ignition on and pump starts so all good to go. I need to get some fuel now.....
 
I was unable to get the car to start if it was cold or hot. It just makes its mind up what it wants to do. Starting 20250418_093437.jpg

I know what your going to say. Rich mixture.

After cleaning the plugs for the 8th time, we looked at the timing. 20 degree out.

We are currently try to tune it again.....
 
This car doesn't want me to fit the new carpet set. I keep having to fix something else when I attempt to fit the carpet.

Car has been re-timed and this morning it started after a couple of turns. Set at 8deg btdc. It's not done that since if had the car. I have to test it a few times when it's cold and hot to see if it will be reliable enough to go out for an extended drive. In the meantime...
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I have had to remove the sender as it doesn't work. So frustrating. I may need to locate another. I looked inside the tank and there was some old sediment in the bottom so I've had to remove the tank as well.
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It's soaking in citric acid for a few days.
 
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Modern fuel has eaten through the fuel sender ring and the last of the fuel drained out the tank was brown.

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This was inside the tank at the lowest point.

I know finding a sender unit won't be easy but I did read on here that a 4cyl sender will fit and work. Is that confirmed by anyone?
 
On the plugs, they will mostly look sooty unless you check them immediately after a good run under load. Especially when cold. Obviouely with the timing so far out that wouldn't help you.

On the sender, The 4 cyl tank is a lower capaicty, so the sender may have a different readout behaviour. But it will tell you when the tank is low!
 
sdibbers said:
On the plugs, they will mostly look sooty unless you check them immediately after a good run under load. Especially when cold. Obviouely with the timing so far out that wouldn't help you.

On the sender, The 4 cyl tank is a lower capaicty, so the sender may have a different readout behaviour. But it will tell you when the tank is low!
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Thanks for the positive reply. Admittedly I've only run the car in the garage to start it once a week so the plugs maybe covered in carbon because of that. Also the carb was over fueling as I'm not really sure of what I'm doing. At the moment it started quick this morning which it's not done before so that's an improvement.

If I can't find a V8 sender, I'll buy a 4cyl one. As long as the gauge tells me when it's low I can live with that. At the moment with the 5 speed box, the speedo is reading half of the speed I'm doing. So it will say 20mph when I'm doing 40mph. Not a problem really. But so long as the sender gives me a true reading when low, say 1/4 of a tank, that will do me.
 
I can't find a fuel sender for any money. The people who claim to have them simply don't. They have wasted my time.

I have attempted to fix the one I have. I refitted the tank yesterday but the sender leaked.

If I can't find a fuel sender, I'm moving the car on. I've had enough.
 
I would reason that the 4cyl and V8 ones are the same because the height between the bottom and top is the same, the different capacities come from being 'fatter'.

Try getting a sender unit from one of the Land Rover series suppliers and changing the 'resistor wound card' over to your sender.
 
Wadhams have informed me the V8 fuel senders are in stock today. I have ordered one. I'm just waiting for confirmation
 
Car is off the ramps this morning. Sender I fixed doesn't leak. 10ltr of fuel in and the gauge is just about starting on the 1st white segment on the gauge.

I've started the car from cold and also hot. It's a completely different engine now. Still a little tweak to do but it's running. I decided that the beer garden was shouting at me so a run out in the car may happen next week.
 
Had a little look at the car this morning and thought "I've never given the engine a compression test". Here is what I found.

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Not bad I thought.

Anyway cleaned plugs (again) and noticed I couldn't get the feeler gauge in the gap. Was this one of my problems?

Sorted that and sod it, let's drive it. We'll it does go! 10 mile round trip as I'm doing small journeys until I'm satisfied. Fuel gauge reads good as I filled another 10 ltrs in. Put the car back in the garage and tomorrow I'll look at plugs again. Success today.
 
Checked car today and plugs have a little carbon on them but less than previous. Have to try and get the mixture a little leaner I think.

Checked oil/coolant and both are fine with no top up. When looking at the rear crankcase breather, I'm not sure about this.

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I have the filter arrow pointing towards the engine. It runs from the engine to the carb. Could I plug the carb connection and fit a oil catch can from the crankcase to a cannister with a filter instead?
 
Sorry to say this, and I may be wrong, but that really doesn't look right to me.

What are the pulse air rails?

That rear port on the Weber is usually for the brake servo and creates a great deal of suction. If you have that connected straight to the crankcase without a PVC valve or restrictor of some kind, it will mess up your AFR, throw your tickover out and throw a load oil into the engine.

Is there a port on the front, and is it a 500 Weber?
 
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