Ruskie the 3500s

Found a spare day to get back to the underseal.

It isnt so bad other than being very messy, the white spirit works well at softening the underseal which I scrape down then wipe down with rags soaked in white spirit.

Loads still to do and I need to figure out how I am going to do the welding, I would like to keep as much of the original metal but dont want to make too many patches.

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That looks in remarkable condition under there. What are you going to coat it with after the welding?
 
I have epoxy mastic for it.

It is a shame, the time spent out side during its life allowed water to get in a few bits.

There is a few spots where it could of developed into rust if left so well worth getting the underseal off and treating it.
 
I havent touched it since last August, work and life got in the way also had a really disappointing situation with a parts supplier so wasnt in the mood to get my overalls on. Was even tempted to sell the P6 along with a couple of my other cars.

However I have got some mojo back to restart the project.

The underseal is off the drivers side other that a bit of a residue. The main area to look at is the rear sill which needs cut out and welded.

Before I can get the welder out though the interior has to come out. The carpet had water damage, bugs and mice droppings which make my skin crawl so I ripped it out and binned it after I had rolled the car back on the ground.

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I will get the internal area a good clean up and some rust converter.

Willneed to try and get the pressing in to the repair panel, just need to knock something out in in wood but it should be good for both sides.
 
That is going to be a super nice base unit when you have put those bits back in. Good on you for saving it.
 
I had a go a making the pressing.

Just using the block of wood I cut out and a selection of hammers I managed to get a bit of shape but needs more work. Will try and cut the centre out and weld it.

I dont have access to a press or would rig up a former from metal.

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Take two.

Just a rough attempt to see how it will look.

I think this will be the way to go for me, a bit more work with the hammers then weld a section on.

Really this area could be repaired with a flat piece but I am enjoying trying to reproduce the original panel with my basic tools.

Actually I have just thought that I could probably repair the piece I cut out and rescue the pressings. It is quite solid other than the frilly area.

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Following on from the brain wave to repair the rust section I have spent a few hours on it. Still plenty of work to do on it but not so bad.

I started off but treating it with some phosphoric acid.

It was then a case of welding in new metal and filling holes with weld.

I will need to spend a bit of time grinding it back and making it look better but overall it will do.



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I tried to tidy up the original section using a bronze braze but I couldnt really get it hot enough and the original steel was too thin tbh.


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So plan be was the cut and weld.

I am reasonably happy with the panel, I could of spent more time on it but manage to get the floor repair welded in place before I ran out of wire.

Still have a bit to do on the outer sill, again this was a bit thin so decided to cut it out.

I could of just welded a flat section in but it has been interesting trying to figure out how to recreate the panel or atleast a homage to it.

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Managed a bit more recently but progress has been slow.

Not 100% happy, still have some tidying up to do but its ok.

Some of the original steel is ok until a torch goes near it then blows holes. My welder is on the lowest setting too.

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I put a bit of effort in to the front section today.

It is where water had got in to the footwell, not a massive repair and a bit annoying.

Managed to get most of it done before I ran out of gas.

I didn't try and put the pressing in the front as the steel is too thick and doesnt really merit the time. I did press a circle in it though and will put the bracket back on.

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I took a week off to spend some time on this. Ended up getting dragged into other jobs.

Got a good run this weekend. Welding finished on the passenger side and ground back. I even got some epoxy mastic on.

When I cleaned up the welds I brushed on some phosphertic acid. Hopefully this will stop any rust for a few years.

I have some paint for the inside of the sill to do but thats this side pretty much done.



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I didn't replace those little locating brackets as they're just rust traps. Looking good though.
 
I didn't replace those little locating brackets as they're just rust traps. Looking good though.
I was in two minds about them.

Did you put anything else on top of the epoxy when you did it or was the epoxy enough?

I am trying to get my mind ready to get the underseal off the other side, the same areas need repaired. It will need to wait until I get my XJS sorted, it needs a few welds for MOT and I had to let it lapse as the Rovers blocking the garage.
 
Did you put anything else on top of the epoxy when you did it or was the epoxy enough?

I painted the vulnerable bits in a thick coat of black epoxy, then a coat of sandy coloured epoxy, worked well into every nook and cranny. After that, a couple of coats of satin black to finish. I do get underneath every year to check everything is ok, and there's no rust forming, very difficult to do with 1/2" of underseal plastered all over it.
 
I was thinking of using some of the Buzzweld WAR. WAR Underbody Rustproofing Superwax

I have put some of the cavity paint inside the sill, A, B/C and D posts.

Buzzweld do a wax that goes off nicely and dries like some sort of ceramic finish. I would be happy to use that in either black or clear though in needs maintenance after 3 years.

There are so many products available, I definitely don't want something where water can get trapped behind.
 
@arthuy Those are fantastic pictures for anyone looking to do that job. I have to say that's about the most typical rust you'll ever see on a P6, pretty much all of them are exactly the same and you look to have done a terrific job.

I don't get why people say the P6 is a particularly structurally complex car. The D post if rot goes up it, along with the channel for the rubber is tricky. But once you take off the cover sill, almost everything else is accessible fairly easily and pretty flat or simple curves. Compare to something which might have a hidden central stiffener for example.
 
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