Running issues!!

Is there an ABC type "Idiot's Guide" to bypassing the Ballast Resistor wire?? (Eg.: A/Wake up. B/Put trousers on. C/Bypass Ballast Resistor.)

The person I bought my car from used one of those lovely little scotch block things to splice into the original wire, close to the fusebox (the other side of the ballast resistor). He ran the A&R power amp from this wire, then spliced another wire with another scotch block to run the coil. It ran like a bag of nails, and the general state of the electrics was how Sparky got his name :)

I removed this and did the job properly.

I had a look at the wiring diagram for my car, and found where the coil wire came out of the fusebox. Then disconnected the battery and removed the fusebox. Then pulled the fuse out, and wiggled the wire with its spade free from the back. After carefully removing the spade, I found a new piece of wire of the same size, and crimped it back in. Then replaced the spade into the fusebox and reinserted the fuse. Then I pushed the new wire through the grommet into the engine compartment, running it forwards and connecting it to the coil. Taped up the old wire with the ballast resistor in it, refitted the fusebox, and reconnected the battery.

This gave me a coil feed of 12V, from the place it was designed to come from.

Bit of a faff, but the best way to do it, IMHO :)

Richard
 
Thanks Chaps,

Can I leave the ballast resistor as is and just run another 12v supply from the washer bottle or does it have to be bypassed or eliminated??

RT.
 
You can, but that’s not an ideal way to do it. The washer bottle circuit is fused. If you have a fault in that circuit that blows the fuse, the circuit will still be able to draw current through the ballast wire, which isn’t ideal. If you disconnect and insulate one end of the ballast wire, and feed the electronic ignition from the washer bottle, if the fuse blows, then the car stops. Again not ideal.
 
I have a suffix B 1972 V8 originally auto. I have been looking into this as I run my car on a 12v feed from the washer bottle as I have an electronic dist and 12v coil.
Now I hear peoples concerns about what would happen if the fuse to the washer bottle were to blow - the car would stop.
So I have looked at the correct wiring diagram and also the car and this is what I have found.
The fuse in the fuse box for the ignition control is 21 22, the ballast wire eventually joins to a wire coming from this fuse.
Guess what else is fed from fuse 21 22 .............. yup the washer bottle !!!!!
So either way if you run your 12v feed to your 12v coil from the washer bottle, or take it back to the fusebox to the correct original source, the power comes from fuse 21 22.
So the washer bottle looks to be a bona fide source for 12v coil power if the ballast wire is removed from the coil and made safe.
 
That’s not the case for my 4cyl. The feed for the ignition is un-fused (white wires). True, the ignition feed does connect to the screen washer fuse, but it connects to the live, un-fused side of it, i.e. before the fuse. Or more correctly, the fuse for the screen washer is fed from the ignition switched live circuit.
 
Mine does that, but the screenwash motor comes off the bottom of the fuse, and the coil comes off the top.
 
OK pulled 21 22 when car running on original ballast wiring and motor didn't stop, weird why Rover put ignition control on fuse box, but hey ho.
Car ran OK on original ballast wire with 12v coil, so no problem about being stranded at roadside !

Talked with our auto electrician today and he see's no problem running with fused ignition supply, his words were - when did you last hear of a washer pump blowing a fuse ?
All the Lucas Uniloom's that we fit brand new have a fuse covering the ignition circuit.
Interesting discussion guys, but I wont be fretting how my coil gets its power.
 
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