Rover p6b restoration

Just to be clear, you mean engine should be 5d DOWN F->R, at the gearbox output flange, and the diff flange parallel to it, obviously in the vertical plane...? seeing my garage floor is not flat, I could zero the angle finder on the floor (strictly, on the quick-jack frame), and measure relative to that level. All the diff rubbers are new, so it has a chance of being at correct angle.
 
I believe the front sits higher, with the rear down 5 degrees. The only reason I remember this is that when I was trying to get my 4 barrel to work correctly, I discovered that it liked to sit flat and to get it to do this, you have to fit a 5 degree angled plate between it and the engine. saying that, mine sits at 3 degrees now, but I didn't fit the 5 speed, it was already in there when I bought the car.
 
jp928 said:
Just to be clear, you mean engine should be 5d DOWN F->R, at the gearbox output flange, and the diff flange parallel to it, obviously in the vertical plane...? seeing my garage floor is not flat, I could zero the angle finder on the floor (strictly, on the quick-jack frame), and measure relative to that level. All the diff rubbers are new, so it has a chance of being at correct angle.
Click to expand...

The engine / box were sloping down toward the rear, yes. I made some C spacers and inserted them in the rear g box mounts to get the rear of the box up a high as I could. I then pivoted the diff by lowering the rear, and raising the front by using spacers to get to 1 degree apart.
It will all depend on what you find when you measure.
I assume that the difference in angles of the drive flanges on a stock car may have contributed to driveline vibration, and the reason Rover put the prop joints out of phase. All I know is that I battled it for a while and in the end won.
In theory if one flange is say 1 deg off from the vertical and the other is 1 deg off in the same plane then you are good regardless of whether the car is level front to rear.
Drive Shaft Harmonics
 
Don't know exactly how many degrees mine is but got diff flange level then checked the front and the bubble was pretty close to level so I'll try it like that for now.
Painted up a couple of bits and fitted them too.
Getting there now.
20220305_111013.jpg

20220305_113201.jpg
 
Clutch slave a bit close to the exhaust, or is it an illusion? Not able to get S manifolds, use S exhausts? Still watching, still learning, thanks.
 
jp928 said:
Clutch slave a bit close to the exhaust, or is it an illusion? Not able to get S manifolds, use S exhausts? Still watching, still learning, thanks.
Click to expand...
A little I guess but don't think it should cause a problem.
Its unfortunate I bought the auto stainless downpipes when I was going to keep it auto.
I'm unsure how close the s downpipes would be.
I'm still learning as I go too.
 
Saw video of gearlever mounting - no sign of anti-rattle spring in the lever ball ? Should be a spring with a nylon bit inside the ball.
 
Those without the viscous fan and all its related bits have it easy here! The two piece fan shroud on mine is a PITA to R&R as you cant lift the rad with the shrouds in place.
 
Was very pleased with how my rocker covers came out.
20220402_104835.jpg
It then enabled me to finish putting the engine back together and get it running.
The only problem I had was after it had been running a while the oil pressure transmitter started leaking so have ordered another from winns.20220402_090646.jpg
20220402_111148.jpg
Think my dashboard needs a clean after the last couple of years of work but you can see the rpm to break the cam in and the temperature and oil pressure remained consistent for the 20 to 30 min break in period.
20220402_133615.jpg
 
Started pulling the heater apart to replace the foam on the flaps.
Don't want to dismantle any more than I have.
Need to fabricate a panel and repair another that's cracked where the washer bottle was hung as came out of a 2200 as mine was way past it as you can see in the first photo.
20220409_110947.jpg20220409_110938.jpg20220409_110920.jpg20220409_113820.jpg20220409_113836.jpg
After a bit of stripping and wire brushing I coated some of the rusty bits with rust remedy
20220409_141319.jpg
Will be using the matrix that was in the car as seems OK after flushing with hot water the entire matrix got hot so in my mind shouldn't be clogged up internally.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top