Rover P6 4.6 V8 Road/Race car.

Yep, bang out the core plug in the bottom of the inlet manifold and there is a little hole which feeds water into the 'tower'. Chances are it's just the pressed in steel fitting at the top which has corroded up and only needs a drill running through to clean it out. I have a carb inlet manifold in the garage which I hacked the the centre out of that shows the hole clearly if you want to see it?
 
Ah, I see. Is it likely that the core plug will go back in? Or do I need to get a new one before doing that? Yes I am hoping that it is just the fitting. I keep calling it the "carb tower" I am sure there is a better term for it! A pic would be useful Simon.
 
Minor update. After some pondering and talking to others I decided as a matter of course it would be a good idea to fit the later rocker covers as they breathe slightly better. There was also the fact that my old setup did not have any flame traps (I am sure I have them kicking around somewhere) so perhaps the carbs back fired and that caused the valley gasket to lift? Who knows. One thing I do know is I need to get it tuned - when it does "pop" it does it with quite some force - enough to rip a hole in my trumpet filter! So far, so good. I don't think the new rocker covers look as nice as the old style ones, but hey ho, function over form:

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At the same time I also re-fitted (well, fitting in the loose sense of the word in terms of the tank, it is only sitting there at the moment) the expansion tank and t'd it off from the only small outlet on my radiator. Also fitted a banking cap for the rad otherwise the outlet wouldn't work as it would be after the pressure release - the expansion tank has a pressurised cap of course. Before doing this it would head towards the red on the gauge very quickly...now...well..it is not as cool as I'd like it to be (I blame cheap ebay fan) but it has certainly improved matters.

Fitted a new fuel cell - the old cell was about 7/8 litres which would not get me very far at all - this one is a little better at 27 litres and is much lighter. I was very impressed with the quality of the tank - made by ARF Racing although the straps are a bit weak - I might make up something a bit more substantial. Just need a longer hose for the overflow and that's another thing sorted. Was very handy that the boot light worked.

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I've just noticed I've got a manual in the boot I'll have to see what car that is for! Next up will be to get it over to Lynx Rolling Road to get the carbs setup properly. Or maybe install a choke cable so I don't have to hold it open with a bit of wood for several minutes.
 
That looks really neat with the new rocker covers....

Is there a reason you've moved the fuel tank outside the rear wheels? Normally i believe it's further forward to keep the 50/50 weight distribution...
 
Simple answer to that is that it's easier to do this than to have it further back and instead of using the spin off filler, I'd have to utilise the stock filler, make up some pipework to the top of the tank, figure out a way of not over-filling it and so on. Mounting it would be trickier as well. Also makes getting to the fuel joints easier. So...really...laziness made me mount it here. Considering that the tank is lighter and is about half the capacity of the original and is mounted lower I don't see it as a big issue.

Good news is that I have been blasting it about now and then and no sign of the valley gasket lifting.
 
Another year, another MOT. Almost went through - needed to clean out the washer jets and replace the front tyres. Went for these rather tasty Dunlop Direzza 205/60/15 - no longer rubs when I am giving it beans on roundabouts which is nice. Forgot how light the steering is with normal tyres, too!


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Not much work on this, just been enjoying. Fitted a new set of rear tyres as the previous ones, although I liked the look of, are not particularly practical and would scrub a bit (might not have done since I fitted new rear bump stops) when getting air or cornering hard so they had to go.

I took the car to an AutoSolo at Rockingham last month. I am rubbish at it - I get lost very easily, but still was a lot of fun. Due to the tight turns and changes of direction, power was not an issue in the slightest - if I don't think it would have made any difference I'd have just made more smoke - I spent much of the time in one wheel drive. Body roll is still there as it was last time - I have not made changes since the last event attended - but the new tyres have made a massive difference. Needs a beefier anti-roll bar really and an LSD so I can have 2WD!

Maurice attended in his Range Rover as backup crew who I also thank for the pics

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Go!

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This was quite a tight one for a bigger car

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MX5 is certainly more suited in terms of handling. But I'd say the P6 is far more visibly appealing and possibly more entertaining to watch

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Goodbye new tyres

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Came in from left to right on this picture with the intention on going round the three cones and then back to the left. A little more sideways than intended

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I may be going the wrong way here

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Yep my exhaust is hanging down a bit it's on the to-do list

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Wow looks very mean and nasty.
Speaking of anti roll bars, at Silverstone a couple of weeks ago Andrew Strachan allowed me to crawl all over his replica racer and I noticed that the anti roll bar fitted was around 1 1/4" inch diameter with a hex section welded into the ends. I cant imagine this would be solid bar, so how about experimenting with a section of thick wall seamless tube ??
 
Thanks :) There are a few uprated anti-roll bars on the market now and the one by Colin seams a very reasonable price so I think I'd probably go with that when funds allow rather than experimentation. The car is much more composed than standard already and on the road it is just about right - it would be tempting to step up another 50/100lbs to the springs front and rear but I think that would compromise how nice it is to drive on the road as to me it's a brilliant A/B road stormer at the moment.
 
I am thinking much the same on springs, I am at 500lbs front and rear and am thinking of leaving the front and trying 550 lbs on the rear. Where are you at the moment ?
 
I am thinking much the same on springs, I am at 500lbs front and rear and am thinking of leaving the front and trying 550 lbs on the rear. Where are you at the moment ?

I am 550 at the rear and 500 at the front already - funny hey. When I did corner weighting that's what came out as optimal in the calculations for the right balance. Only based on limited knowledge but I would have thought yours will be a bit understeery with same front and rear?
 
I think the balance is not far away, most of my driving has been skewed by having a heavy tool box in the boot, but now the car is getting more trustworthy I have deleted it. The car is quite neutral and responds nicely to a dose of throttle bringing the tail out, I would say the understeery days are gone - helped by some negative camber and a 25mm anti roll bar.
I just think it needs more spring on the rear as I have the shocks wound up fairly near the top damping wise and the car does seem to need firming still.

Thanks for the comparison info, much appreciated.
 
Alex, I rckon the uprated roll bar will be a revelation. My guess is that you'll need to go up to 600lb at the back to keep the same handling balance. Or put up with a tiny bit more understeer.

Cobraboy, I'm intrigued to see how you did the neg camber. I've worked up a couple of ways in my head, but not seen it done in practice.... I guess I'm going to have to read all your threads now, aren't I.... ;)
 
I am looking forward to having the funds to allocate to the uprated roll bar :) That will be another good excuse for an Auto Test. Note Auto Test and not Auto Solo - I need a co-pilot!
 
[QUOTE Cobraboy, I'm intrigued to see how you did the neg camber. I've worked up a couple of ways in my head, but not seen it done in practice.... I guess I'm going to have to read all your threads now, aren't I.... ;)[/QUOTE]

Chris
The negative camber came automatically by lowering the car, I got around 1 degree negative at my new ride height. For road use I thought this would be a bit much so I lessened it to 1/2 degree by putting washers under the inner bellcrank pivots. One 3/8 plain washer took the camber from 1 degree to 1/2 a degree.
On a car with std ride height you could gain negative camber by shimming under the outer pivot.
When I finally get the thing out on a track I may well go for 1 degree, but that is a way off yet.
I have a strange anomaly at the moment in that the nearside front wheel turns out when the suspension is compressed under braking, I have replace the idler which has helped but the problem is still there. When I get that sorted I am sure the car will be very stable and can play with settings.
 
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For your track fun and games I'd look at "Steve's bar Mk II". It's 24 or 25mm for £120. I think Colin's is 19mm. I have the 24mm bar and it's completely fine for normal road use, you really need to find a rough road or actually hit a kerb to feel any difference in ride at all. So I'm guessing for your fun and games, you'd be better "going big".

Loving this thread. Its so much fun seeing someone enjoy a car so much. I'm glad there are concours restorations and very original cars as well but there are only so many stories to tell about them...
 
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