Rover 3500S from Austria
- Thread starter TyroleanRover
- Start date
rover100rich
Member
personally i would be going for light tan or bronze , think black leather needs white pinstriping,as i have in our mgbgt , looks great on old sports cars , but a tan interior just oozes class , just my opinion
If anyone had suggested a colour matched blue carpet would look Ok in an old car, I wouldn't believe them. I generally like things to be original. But I actually think this looks OK much to my surprise. Here: Gone and done it!
Some red interiors have red carpets and these look amazing. Mortlake is miserable and black is well, black. An original option you have is "birch grey" this would work with black.
I'm seriously thinking of having my interior redone in mulberry which was offered on the P5 and Jaguars but never the P6.
TyroleanRover
Active Member
Thank you Peter and Rover100rich for searching some pictures to visualize my thoughts.
I made a decision...
I will change the box pleat to flat pleat as i originally planned, because and refresh them in a light tan brown.
It really oozes class, as rover100rich said.
i ordered a color code card for the leather dye.
I made a decision...
I will change the box pleat to flat pleat as i originally planned, because and refresh them in a light tan brown.
It really oozes class, as rover100rich said.
i ordered a color code card for the leather dye.
TyroleanRover
Active Member
Dear community.
The car is back on the streets again, and registered since last friday. I had my first short ride on sunday, and the P6 is now in the repair shop to have a complete look on all the things need to be done.
Braking isn't satisifying. The "feeling" is not well, a little hard.
Also the feeling of the clutch, there is a lot of "freeplay" (Is this the right term?) in the pedal.
The screen get's fogged-up after starting, i have to check this, maybe the heat exchanger needs work.
The new light tan leather colour is on it's way, and i need a new carpet set.
Any recomendations? Where should i buy them?
I would like to write the companies to get some samples.
I need:
-complete carpet set (excl. boot)
-these mats you put under the carpet, i don't know the name for them
I found some at:
Rover P6 Manual full felted/webbing as original
Full carpet set Rover P6 ‘63-‘77 | Rover | Lakewell
best regards
Simon
PS: Does anyone know a good technical vocabs website? Sometimes i am searching for vocabs, but "google" translates the german word 1:1 to englisch and this is not right for sure...
The car is back on the streets again, and registered since last friday. I had my first short ride on sunday, and the P6 is now in the repair shop to have a complete look on all the things need to be done.
Braking isn't satisifying. The "feeling" is not well, a little hard.
Also the feeling of the clutch, there is a lot of "freeplay" (Is this the right term?) in the pedal.
The screen get's fogged-up after starting, i have to check this, maybe the heat exchanger needs work.
The new light tan leather colour is on it's way, and i need a new carpet set.
Any recomendations? Where should i buy them?
I would like to write the companies to get some samples.
I need:
-complete carpet set (excl. boot)
-these mats you put under the carpet, i don't know the name for them
I found some at:
Rover P6 Manual full felted/webbing as original
Full carpet set Rover P6 ‘63-‘77 | Rover | Lakewell
best regards
Simon
PS: Does anyone know a good technical vocabs website? Sometimes i am searching for vocabs, but "google" translates the german word 1:1 to englisch and this is not right for sure...
TyroleanRover
Active Member
See what arrived today...
Need some work, chrome polish, blasted and new paint and check if they are running round.
Need some work, chrome polish, blasted and new paint and check if they are running round.
unstable load
Well-Known Member
I'm going to stick my neck out here and say your English is well up to task for us to get more than the gist of your posts and questions.
TyroleanRover
Active Member
Thanks John.
For me, it is a great way to practice my skills and to combine it with my interests.
@Barten
They forum comunity helped me to find theese wheels on facebook.
I am really happy i took this offer.
I bought a set of flatpleats to recover. These are now cleaned with a special leather cleaner, the colour almost removed and they are waiting for their new leather dye.
A company in germany is mixing the colour to my needs. It took me weeks to decide which colour i should take. I ordered leather samples from different shops in all types of beige, brown and ocre. It was really dificult to find a beige/brown that suits to the paprika colour outside, but i managed to get it.
For some time i thought about a use of my old boxpleats. I found out that they are not Ambla, they are real leather.
Some of the previous owners also dryed to redye them, but not with the right product. The colour is far too "hard" and crackles, it was also not sprayed, rather brushed and you can see this. Because the colour was brushed, it is to thick and the surface lost all it's leather optics, this is why i thought they are Ambla. They show stains of diffrent colour on it.
As i am rebuiliding the shed to my house, this should get the new "home" for me and my wifes little collection of classic cars and bikes my plan is to built a little "bar room" where i can nip a glass of fine whisky and enjoy looking at my bikes
I will weld some frames and use the boxpleat seats for this bar room.
Like the famous "Rover chair"
That's cool .. i think But without the red clamps...
For me, it is a great way to practice my skills and to combine it with my interests.
@Barten
They forum comunity helped me to find theese wheels on facebook.
I am really happy i took this offer.
I bought a set of flatpleats to recover. These are now cleaned with a special leather cleaner, the colour almost removed and they are waiting for their new leather dye.
A company in germany is mixing the colour to my needs. It took me weeks to decide which colour i should take. I ordered leather samples from different shops in all types of beige, brown and ocre. It was really dificult to find a beige/brown that suits to the paprika colour outside, but i managed to get it.
For some time i thought about a use of my old boxpleats. I found out that they are not Ambla, they are real leather.
Some of the previous owners also dryed to redye them, but not with the right product. The colour is far too "hard" and crackles, it was also not sprayed, rather brushed and you can see this. Because the colour was brushed, it is to thick and the surface lost all it's leather optics, this is why i thought they are Ambla. They show stains of diffrent colour on it.
As i am rebuiliding the shed to my house, this should get the new "home" for me and my wifes little collection of classic cars and bikes my plan is to built a little "bar room" where i can nip a glass of fine whisky and enjoy looking at my bikes
I will weld some frames and use the boxpleat seats for this bar room.
Like the famous "Rover chair"
That's cool .. i think
But without the red clamps... 
Barten
Active Member
Ok, so you have bought a set of flatpleats and you are recolouring them if I understand you right. I have flatpleats in my car too, but being a 3500 s it really should have boxpleat. They came with the car, and it was the previous owner that had changed out ambla boxpleat for real leather flatpleats. For now it will have to do. I won't take on any more projects now until I have my car on the road. I was going to ask you if you had you boxpleat recovered in flatpleat, but I guess that not feasible.
Regards, Barten
Regards, Barten
TyroleanRover
Active Member
Yes, that's right. I change the original boxpleat to flatpleat.
If you want to read my story:
When i bought the car i thought the boxpleats are Ambla. The previous owner also said they are Ambla.
I checked the glove box, the door panels and the side faces of the seats and this was leatherette, so i believed the owner.
When i googled "3500S" and "Ambla" i allways saw the boxpleat surface.
Originally i thought every boxpleat is Ambla, and every leather is flatpleat.
When a 3500 to cannibalize was offered near my hometown almost 2 days later, i took the chance and bought the whole interior because i wanted leather seats, and the flatpleats there were in good condition.
During cannibalizing of the interior, i noticed that the door panels and the glove box paneling was leatherette.
I talked to the owner and confronted him with that because he told me his interior is "real leather" on the phone, then he told me to have a closer look on the wood trims...
Every old test review or classic car review wrote about the quality of the interior. Especially the german classic car magazines praised the "feeling of british club room"
with fine leather and fine wood placed in the interior....
This was the point when i found out some things on the interior:
- The wood in the doors and dashboard isn't wood, it's a (well done) fake
- Only the seat surface is leather, the door panels, the glove box panel is leatherette
I was really a little dissapointed at this moment.
Later at home i found out that boxpleat is not automatically Ambla.
Now I checked my "new" flatpleat leather seats and i noticed, they almost feel the same as my boxpleats, which i thought to be Ambla.
I was surprised by the quality of my "Ambla", i thought: Hey, what a great fake! They feel like leather, they smell like leather and even the bottom looked like leather...
Still in mind, i must have Ambla (because the previous owner said that) i started searching through this forum.
Then i noticed there are 2 types of backrest covers. A thin type for leather seats, and a much thicker type for Ambla.
Now i know that i already had leather seats...
if i knew that before, i wouldn't have bought the flatpleats.
After comparing both seat types, i decided to restore the flatpleats. They are in better condition.
....
If you want to read my story
:When i bought the car i thought the boxpleats are Ambla. The previous owner also said they are Ambla.
I checked the glove box, the door panels and the side faces of the seats and this was leatherette, so i believed the owner.
When i googled "3500S" and "Ambla" i allways saw the boxpleat surface.
Originally i thought every boxpleat is Ambla, and every leather is flatpleat.
When a 3500 to cannibalize was offered near my hometown almost 2 days later, i took the chance and bought the whole interior because i wanted leather seats, and the flatpleats there were in good condition.
During cannibalizing of the interior, i noticed that the door panels and the glove box paneling was leatherette.
I talked to the owner and confronted him with that because he told me his interior is "real leather" on the phone, then he told me to have a closer look on the wood trims...
Every old test review or classic car review wrote about the quality of the interior. Especially the german classic car magazines praised the "feeling of british club room"
with fine leather and fine wood placed in the interior....
This was the point when i found out some things on the interior:
- The wood in the doors and dashboard isn't wood, it's a (well done) fake
- Only the seat surface is leather, the door panels, the glove box panel is leatherette
I was really a little dissapointed at this moment.
Later at home i found out that boxpleat is not automatically Ambla.
Now I checked my "new" flatpleat leather seats and i noticed, they almost feel the same as my boxpleats, which i thought to be Ambla.
I was surprised by the quality of my "Ambla", i thought: Hey, what a great fake! They feel like leather, they smell like leather and even the bottom looked like leather...
Still in mind, i must have Ambla (because the previous owner said that) i started searching through this forum.
Then i noticed there are 2 types of backrest covers. A thin type for leather seats, and a much thicker type for Ambla.
Now i know that i already had leather seats...
if i knew that before, i wouldn't have bought the flatpleats.
After comparing both seat types, i decided to restore the flatpleats. They are in better condition.
....
TyroleanRover
Active Member
Just a little update:
The P6 is back on the streets again. It is still not really enjoyable to drive, but work goes on.
I renewed the remote gear stick control, after i bought a new linkage from a guy in germany.
The old gear stick wiggled and it was a sort of lottery game to change gears.
I installed new sleeves to the linkage, and the feeling is now very well.
Unfortunatly the downshift to second or first gear is not working well.
Some times it works, sometimes not. Changing gears with double-clutch works.
I think they synchro-rings (Is this the name in english?) are worn.
Maybe i should change the gearbox oil and have a try again before changing the snychro rings, what do you think?
The break is not really what i expect after reading in all the reviews that the rover has excellent brakes.
It feels if the brake booster is not allways working. If i brake, i push the pedal in and after a few centimeters the booster works.
If i repeat pushing the brake pedal about 2-3 times, there is no booster anymore.
I have heared that the SU carburators produce to lees vacuum but i can't really belive this... What should i do/could i do to check the problem.
Changing the vacuum hoses?
PS: The new painted and polished rostyles are at the workshop, next week i should receive them with 195/75 R14.
best regards
Simon
The P6 is back on the streets again. It is still not really enjoyable to drive, but work goes on.
I renewed the remote gear stick control, after i bought a new linkage from a guy in germany.
The old gear stick wiggled and it was a sort of lottery game to change gears.
I installed new sleeves to the linkage, and the feeling is now very well.
Unfortunatly the downshift to second or first gear is not working well.
Some times it works, sometimes not. Changing gears with double-clutch works.
I think they synchro-rings (Is this the name in english?) are worn.
Maybe i should change the gearbox oil and have a try again before changing the snychro rings, what do you think?
The break is not really what i expect after reading in all the reviews that the rover has excellent brakes.
It feels if the brake booster is not allways working. If i brake, i push the pedal in and after a few centimeters the booster works.
If i repeat pushing the brake pedal about 2-3 times, there is no booster anymore.
I have heared that the SU carburators produce to lees vacuum but i can't really belive this... What should i do/could i do to check the problem.
Changing the vacuum hoses?
PS: The new painted and polished rostyles are at the workshop, next week i should receive them with 195/75 R14.
best regards
Simon
TyroleanRover
Active Member
Dear community,
Just a little update on my life with the P6
I got my Rostyles back with the new tyres. Unfortunatly i forgot to order the wheel nuts so i have to wait a little until they arrive. I mounted the new wheel/tyre combination to check the gap between the body and the wheel.
I thought there should be more difference between 195 and 185 width, but you can hardly see a difference. Possibly they don't get wider because the 5.5" wheel width is the limit for 195mm tyres.
The tyre wall and the profile of the NANKANGs look okay.
It was interesting to see the Rovers rear suspension working when i lifted the car up on one side. Almost no camber, thanks to the de-dion tube.
Just a little update on my life with the P6
I got my Rostyles back with the new tyres. Unfortunatly i forgot to order the wheel nuts so i have to wait a little until they arrive. I mounted the new wheel/tyre combination to check the gap between the body and the wheel.
I thought there should be more difference between 195 and 185 width, but you can hardly see a difference. Possibly they don't get wider because the 5.5" wheel width is the limit for 195mm tyres.
The tyre wall and the profile of the NANKANGs look okay.
It was interesting to see the Rovers rear suspension working when i lifted the car up on one side. Almost no camber, thanks to the de-dion tube.
TyroleanRover
Active Member
Your are right!
I asked the tyre dealer today, and he said he needed some wheights inside and outside to balance them well. He showed me on his machine. You but the wheel on there and after a few rotations the machine exactly marks the places for the weights and the mass with a laser pointer.
I could ask him to place them in the middle maybe.
But i got union jack valve caps as a birthday present to install
I asked the tyre dealer today, and he said he needed some wheights inside and outside to balance them well. He showed me on his machine. You but the wheel on there and after a few rotations the machine exactly marks the places for the weights and the mass with a laser pointer.
I could ask him to place them in the middle maybe.
But i got union jack valve caps as a birthday present to install
TyroleanRover
Active Member
Badges are still missing...
I love the look of the rostyles.
TyroleanRover
Active Member
Dear community.
Actually my P6 misses his engine. I put it out before winter and started a complete rebuild with a new crossbolted >3.5 L block
The last days i started removing the ancillaries from the 3.5 and transfer it to the new engine block.
Today a question popped up:
on the drivers side (LHD Vehicle!) of my new engine block there is a opening where the 3.5 has all closed.
What was sitting there? How do i close it properly?
Actually my P6 misses his engine. I put it out before winter and started a complete rebuild with a new crossbolted >3.5 L block
The last days i started removing the ancillaries from the 3.5 and transfer it to the new engine block.
Today a question popped up:
on the drivers side (LHD Vehicle!) of my new engine block there is a opening where the 3.5 has all closed.
What was sitting there? How do i close it properly?
corazon
Well-Known Member
That's for the bell housing crank sensor on the later coil pack ignitioned engines.
It reads the teeth and gaps on the flywheel/flex plate to trigger the ignition. I decided to use it with my Nodiz coil pack ignition setup as it's a subtle and neat location.
Easiest thing would be fit a snug nut and bolt loctited together. Or something like JB weld to fill the hole, but you want to be sure whatever you fill it with won't work loose and fall inwards! You could fit a blanking plate instead of the sensor plate, they are tack welded in though from memory (if you're going to get a new plate tacked in you could just weld up that hole instead)..In reality I don't see it causing problems if you just leave it open, just don't put your finger in there whilst it's running
What pistons are those?
Jim
It reads the teeth and gaps on the flywheel/flex plate to trigger the ignition. I decided to use it with my Nodiz coil pack ignition setup as it's a subtle and neat location.
Easiest thing would be fit a snug nut and bolt loctited together. Or something like JB weld to fill the hole, but you want to be sure whatever you fill it with won't work loose and fall inwards! You could fit a blanking plate instead of the sensor plate, they are tack welded in though from memory (if you're going to get a new plate tacked in you could just weld up that hole instead)..In reality I don't see it causing problems if you just leave it open, just don't put your finger in there whilst it's running
What pistons are those?
Jim
TyroleanRover
Active Member
Dear Jim,
Thanks for your information!
How are things going on with your green mean machine?
I will have a detailed look on it tomorrow and decide what to do with the hole. Maybe i build a cover plate for it.
To be true, i couldn't really found out anything about the pistons. They could be wildcat ones...
This guy here asked the same question in the V8 owners forum... and wrote he got them from "wildcat"
The V8 Owners Forum - - Login
They are marked:
RA 4105 X .020
MID. 001 OC
Simon
Thanks for your information!
How are things going on with your green mean machine?
I will have a detailed look on it tomorrow and decide what to do with the hole. Maybe i build a cover plate for it.
To be true, i couldn't really found out anything about the pistons. They could be wildcat ones...
This guy here asked the same question in the V8 owners forum... and wrote he got them from "wildcat"
The V8 Owners Forum - - Login
They are marked:
RA 4105 X .020
MID. 001 OC
Simon
corazon
Well-Known Member
That's interesting Simon. What cylinder heads are you using, did the new engine come with heads? I would have thought wildcat Pistons were intended to be used with their specific head design, have you measured them?
Progress is happening with my project, I'm about to send the shell for blasting. Meanwhile the engine block is going to get flanged liners fitted and hybrid ZF box getting built!
Jim
Progress is happening with my project, I'm about to send the shell for blasting. Meanwhile the engine block is going to get flanged liners fitted and hybrid ZF box getting built!
Jim