rosie the rover lol

I also fitted a modern one. Just cut into the pipe between the bottle and bonnet and mounted a pump like this on the inner wing by the steering box. Same wiring, dead easy. All you have to do is bypass the old pump by putting the pipe to the new pump directly onto the elbow joint for the pick-up pipe into the bottle.

Good luck with the back brakes. It's not so bad once you get stuck in - just seems a bit daunting before you start it.

You'll manage it! :D

Michael
 
Will what a difference the replacement steering idler has made. Realy lightened the steering. But i ve noticed my top ball joint has some play now. So i will carry on with that . Then sort the brakes . I will get a new washer motor and fit that as i ve nicked the one ive got off the white rover. I ve removed the two lower arms and found play in them to. So im replacing them with new.i ve removed the swivel and i can confrim that the hitting the side of the arm as i have read on here does work a treat. I ve now just got to remove top ball joint from the seating. Lots of play in it when i compare it to the new one.but im guessing its not that old as it has the nylon nut and not the split pin and nut. Im just checking body work before i put it all back. Im always amazed how the rover is a pleasure to work on. If you just take your time.
Thanks for your advice. My doner car keeps on giving . Poor thing
Marcus
Ps another question i have two different new top ball joints i will put pics on later. One has no movement at all nice and stiff looks good quality. The other is new and has moves freely. Should it have play in it that you can easily move it about.
Marcus
 
Well i stripped the nsf arm down and ive now replaced the top and bottom ball joints. Then replaced the two lower arms with new and the steering small arm with new . Ive greeced them all and replaced all my front brake pipes as they looked bit rusty.so im now hoping i ve got rid off the clunk i had. I ve still to make my way to the rear of the car . Im thinking of replacing the rear diff as i replace the rear brakes. Theres nothing wrong with the one on the car but i have a brand new diff in my store so i might aswell fit it i think. Plus all the other new bits i ve collected up. But all in all i still find the rover a pleasure to work on and rosie is getting much better to drive with every job i do. I will pop a few pics on tomorrow.
 

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Well rosie attacked me today resulting in a trip to a&e for stritches to my eyebrow.
Ok im on the scrounge for help again. Ive been rebuilding the rear end and ive noticed my rear gaiters near the elbow that cover the universal joint are split any help on how i replace them would be great. Im guessing there an mot requirement and shes up for mot this month so i really need to replace them.
Any advice is always welcome . Also my rear drives side elbow needs repairing or replacing any advice on how to repair the section thar connects to the lower arm would be great as i know they are common on rusting out
Marcus
 
marcus/rosie said:
ive noticed my rear gaiters near the elbow that cover the universal joint are split any help on how i replace them would be great. Im guessing there an mot requirement and shes up for mot this month so i really need to replace them.
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They shouldn't fail the MOT on those, they're not fitted on the prop U/J's so they're not safety critical otherwise they would have them as well, (as would the inner ones) and they don't. If you're really worried because they're split, then cut them off for the test.

I can't ever remember seeing those for sale, and the only way I can think to fit them would be to remove the UJ from the shaft (either end) and then soften the boot enough to be able to stretch it over the yoke. That's only going to work for nice new ones though, used ones are going to be too old to stretch no matter what you do to them. I have my doubts whether even new ones will stretch enough though TBH.
 
This weekend I m putting back rosie s rear , fitting new diff and calipers , replacing all rear brake pipes , new springs and shocks , replaced one bush as he bolt had rusted in my new bushes . then a good painting up so she should get past mot I hope.
pictures off some work.
 

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I ve also replaced the headlamp section as this was the only bit I never did when restoring her. some pisc of her .
 

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I ve now fitted my new springs and shocks. Rosie now sits at 530 mm from floor to wheel arch so has lifted her about 50 mm so im pleased.
 
Lots of good work going on there Marcus. Rosie will be just like new by the time you have finished.

You mentioned further up the page about two top ball joints that you have and how one moves reasonably freely even though it is new. I was advised once that some aftermarket ball joints feature a nylon cup into which the ball runs. This allows it to move much more freely. Be sure though to fill both boots with a suitable grease so as to maximise their longevity.

The gaitor on the half shaft that you mentioned with the split. These were fitted during the manufacturing process of the half shafts, being fitted to the shaft prior to the yokes being welded on.

Ron.
 
Hi thanks for that i did wonder. So to be on the safe side i fitted the nos ones instead. Plenty of grease. The good thing is now im seeing the results of my work. Next is a stainlesd steel exhaust.
 
Well i ve fitted my new springs and its lifted rosie bum from 485mm to 525 mm. Thats from road to bottom of arch so im very pleased. I ve also fitted a set of heavy duty shocks . Shes sits nice and level now.
Marcus
 
I want to try changing the front to a series one as i like it more.
I know i need a series one bonnet and valance plus grill. What else do i need anyone know.
Also im after fitting a complete pull back roof . I had one but dumped it so im on the hunt for one.
Also v8 trims or sdi alloys.
Any advice is always welcome.
Marcus
 
I believe only the V8 S1 grille will fit the series 2 bodyshell at least without surgery. This might not be so easy to find compared to the 2000. I'm not sure you need to change the valance. The V8 bonnet has an extra piece of brightwork on the leading edge too.

If you want my opinion (which you probably didn't) if you change stuff around like this, it just tends to look a bit of a mongrel. There's a design detail integrity in both the original design and the facelift which you lose. I caught a bit of "Heartbeat" when coming home from work the other day and the S1 police car with the S2 side trim just screamed "wrong, wrong, wrong". I also must be the only person ever to be traumatized by this programme when they torched a very nice looking S1 in another episode. That's not my idea of teatime family viewing. The way to enjoy the S1 styling is of course to buy another car.

If you are keeping it S2 then the early SD1 alloys can look great, especially if you use a slightly darker shade of grey/silver to finish them as this finish was more common in the early 70s when alloys first became common.

WarrenL has these and they feel far more "P6" to me than the commonly fitted Vitesse alloys, possibly because they were designed slap bang in the middle of S2 production: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17766&start=45
 
Hi thanks for your advice . I ve looked at those wheels and was nt sure how they would look. But seeing then they really look good i think those are the ones i will hunt down.
As for the series one front end maybe you are right i will think a bit more on that.
I was going to experiment on rosie. Before i did it to the other one.
Regards
Marcus
 
Looks like you're keeping Rosie now 8)

She is a good looking P6 - she sits well, is a great colour combo & good number on black plates. You've made the right choice IMHO :D
 
WarrenL's car is truly exceptional isn't it? I think what helps keep the look is the fact they are 14" and you keep the taller profile tyres.
 
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