Reserve tap and its control cable

jp928

jp928

Well-Known Member
My reserve tap is now compromised - accessible because gearbox is out - went to change the Oring, undoing the screw that holds the wire onto the arm, it broke off. Only way I can see to get it apart now is to cut the wire at the fitting (566902), pull the blade and tap innards, get a new cable. Having trouble locating a cable inner.....
Does anybody know how the wire is fitted to the cabin end fitting that you pull? ie, could one get some new wire the right length and fit it?
thanks
 
Hi John,

I am pretty sure that the fuel reserve wire and knob are an integral part. I might have a second-hand item, will take a look and come back to you.

Ron.
 
Why not cut off the fitting 566902, leaving the inner wire intact , and replace it. 566902 is used on all sorts of cable ends, carbs, heater cables etc .Its listed on Ebay amongst other places
 
I have a new 566902 ready, getting a replacement inner is the problem. Possible line on one from NZ. Possible local cable had already been cut short, as though it had suffered the same problem. My choke cable came apart a while ago, and I managed to silver solder it back together, sort of hoping I could do that here as well.
 
Think I am OK! I used a generic choke cable on the '9' resurrection, and it had a solid wire inner, so....off to Autobarn just down the road. Pretty sure it will do the job - would prefer not to R&R the outer casing, but will if I have to. will tackle tomorrowmorn when its a bit cooler.
 
There are two types of end. the hooked pull knob is moulded into the wire. The later round knobs are mostly screw in but you'll probably break it trying to get it out as the thread is locked on. The Button in the knob centre can be removed, its held in by the rubbery surround. The wire core is pressed into the knob stalk so might be replacable if you can get them seperated....I have a dozen consoles and some have that complete part, I'll look over the weekend.
M
 
No, stem at knob end of generic wont go into original housing- cant gve it sticking out as though on reserve all the time. So, a genuine inner would complete the job....still. Otherwise I will have to swap the outer cable in, and would rather not do that. Getting the barrel and arm off the wire was painful - the wire is really hard, could not break or cut it until I took a Dremel cutting disc to it.
At least I got the tap itself sorted, reassembled with new Oring. Somehow when I did the oring before I must have burred an edge on the barrel so it would not go in properly. Retaining screw in place correctly. Good job I am not in a hurry here.
 
Mike, Thanks for this! mine is a round screw on knob type, So I will check and see if I can move a longer wire on to it.
 
The wire is free to move a little in the end of the stem. it looks like the end of the wire is pushed into a hole in the end of the stem until visible in a transverse hole and then its punched into a bend through that hole. cant see a way to undo that and release the wire.
 
jp928 said:
The wire is free to move a little in the end of the stem. it looks like the end of the wire is pushed into a hole in the end of the stem until visible in a transverse hole and then its punched into a bend through that hole. cant see a way to undo that and release the wire.
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I wonder if you got a drill bit shank exactly the size of the transvers cross hole & ground it so it had a very sharp edged flat end , whether it would shear through the wire if driven through
 
Thats just possible, but it would still leave me needing a way to retain a new length of wire - its very hard, and would need a very thin punch....probably needs a special support to hold the stem while punching. going to hold out for a used cable.
 
I might have done better at this if I thought some more. Instead of cutting the wire at the damaged clamping device, if i had cut the device itself off the wire I wouldnt be here with a wire length problem....although holding the device and cutting it from underneath with the Dremel would not be easy. Next time....
Managed to get the original wire out of the original stem by grinding the wire end off with a small burr . now to try to silver solder some wire into the hole.
 
I've had alook and I have some but I thought I'd check the length with you before figuring out how to get to it....How long is the cable sheath and how much of the wire needs to stick out with the knob fully in?
 
Mike, thanks, but Dont do anything yet, I may be able to fix it by silver soldering a new wire into the original stem. Depends on how well I can do it without getting solder where it should'nt go - silver is very good at taking to most metals, sometimes too good. .to answer your question, I make it around 80mm.
 
Nearly there. Got some fine (thin) silver solder. Tinned the end of the wire - torch nozzle is a bit big, but kept it well clear.Bit of a lump on the end, had to file it down so wire would go into stem. Put stem in vice with end pointing upwards, pushed wire with flux on it into the hole, applied heat, a bit more solder, lovely. Strong as, and no solder on the outside of the stem. Fits into the outer OK, enough length to pick up tap lever. Will finish up tomorrow underneath.
 
Got the wire connected, and working...mostly. Noticed that lever didnt swing the full arc to main tank feed. Thought about the best way to fix this for a bit...then I realized that I had unscrewed the knob, and refitted it in a random position. Ah-ha! If its screwed onto the stem too far the wire will travel less, and that would account for travel observed below. Adjusted the knob closer to the end of the stem, locked the nut, full travel restored. Fixed!
 
jp928 said:
Yes, Ron! Very happy to have sorted this while I have the gearbox out and good access. Otherwise would be a nightmare!
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Haha, I honestly think it is easier to remove the engine before working on the reserve tap than trying to do the job in situ :LOL:

A nightmare is almost an understatement, John!

Ron.
 
i will have access to this shortly and was wondering if this tap could be bypassed.

So as the fuel line comes up from the tank, can it not just straight up to the fuel filter where it then goes onto the 2 carbs. i don't really see the need for a fuel reserve.
 
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