Removing auto gearbox

Marc Verspecht

Marc Verspecht

Member
Hi ,is it possibel tho get the gearbox aut whitaut removing the engine en how wood i need tho proceed if its possibel thank you al. Regards Marc . Sorry dident tel the engine type , its a v8 with a bw 35 from 1970 .
 
You can remove the gearbox leaving the bellhousing and converter in place. Those can then be removed afterwards if necessary.

Remove the top hose at the rad, the air cleaner, horizontal throttle rod, exhaust frontpipes, propshaft, gear linkage, speedo cable, inhibitor wiring dipstick tube, cooler pipes, turn the engine fan so the widest gap between 2 blades is at the bottom, support the gearbox, remove the rear mounting, lower the support, undo the six bolts holding the gearbox to the bellhousing, and remove.

You need to check as you go along in case I've forgotten anything, and for clearance as you go.
 
harveyp6 said:
You can remove the gearbox leaving the bellhousing and converter in place. Those can then be removed afterwards if necessary.

Remove the top hose at the rad, the air cleaner, horizontal throttle rod, exhaust frontpipes, propshaft, gear linkage, speedo cable, inhibitor wiring dipstick tube, cooler pipes, turn the engine fan so the widest gap between 2 blades is at the bottom, support the gearbox, remove the rear mounting, lower the support, undo the six bolts holding the gearbox to the bellhousing, and remove.

You need to check as you go along in case I've forgotten anything, and for clearance as you go.
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Thank you Harvey i wil look in tho it
 
Hi I've recently had mine rebuilt and removed it myself, with hindsight I should have loosened the bolts that hold the torque convertor to the flywheel cos they are tight, and I'm struggling to undo them the convertor has to line up on two differant sized splines and the cutouts on the convertor and I don't want to damage the pump
 
Hi, Loosening the bolts holding the TC to the flywheel will have no influence on engaging the g/box into the TC. The two different size splines are for the stator and the rotor or turbine and the pump engages after they have gone in far enough. If the splines don't engage without a lot of messing about then they have worn enough to be out of alignment. It may be OK for a while but ideally the TC should be changed.

Colin
 
colnerov said:
Hi, Loosening the bolts holding the TC to the flywheel will have no influence on engaging the g/box into the TC. The two different size splines are for the stator and the rotor or turbine and the pump engages after they have gone in far enough. If the splines don't engage without a lot of messing about then they have worn enough to be out of alignment. It may be OK for a while but ideally the TC should be changed.

Colin
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Hi Colin, I left my tc and bellhousing attached when i removed the box. I'm concerned that the TC prongs won't align easily if I refit the box after watching numerous autobox refits on youtube i don't want to damage the seal
 
Hi, Yes I understand that and it OK to do it that way. If the rotor is too worn it drops down too far and you have to lift the back of the box up to get the nose of the g/box shaft to go down into the TC to pick the rotor up, that's when you risk damaging the seal. Once the rotor's picked up onto the shaft you drop the back down and it will only go in when it's level and then engage the pump. The better the TC the easier it goes in.

Colin
 
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