Red Rover Revival

redrover

Well-Known Member
Well…. it has been a long time, hasn’t it!!

Longer standing forum members may remember my profile from 10-12 years ago when I was a pretty active contributor here. I haven't been on regularly for 8 years or more due to becoming heavily (some might say too heavily!!) involved in the P6 Club's committee. I have since left my role after longer than planned in post, and have gone back to being an 'ordinary member'.

The Rover is my first car and the only car I always intend to keep. It’s been garaged for the last 6+ years after the bottom end finally gave out on the way to the P6 Club’s national rally at Bowes, Co Durham in May 2015. I made the decision at the time to mothball it as a project until I had the time, money (!!) and energy to “do it properly”.

Well, a house sale, 2 business ventures, and a lot of committee meetings later, and I’m finally ready. Today I pushed it out into the daylight for the first time in over 6 years! Did a bit of an inspection to re-familiarise myself with the good, bad and ugly aspects of it, and started making lists of what I need to source. I also did a stock-take of all the parts I've amassed over the years and was surprised to find a few gems including a NOS bonnet badge, NOS rear lights and a NOS NADA front sidelight unit! (The NADA sidelight is superfluous to requirements so available if anyone needs one).

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Some of the NOS bits I found including side plates, timing chains and light clusters:
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A bit of potted history… The car is a 1972-registered 2000 TC, originally in Cameron Green but always Ford Spanish Red in my ownership. It’s a total ‘bitza’, with an origin-unknown early 446-prefix engine, tatty panels, saggy suspension, and worn interior. It’s been round the clock at least once (currently showing [?]53,000 miles) but I LOVE it and always have.

I bought it aged 21 and drove it everywhere the length and breadth of Britain. I rebuilt the engine after about 2k miles of ownership, which included a professionally reconditioned cylinder head from Clive Annable (new valves, unleaded seats, springs and skimmed). I rebuilt the short block myself ‘in situ’, which was a challenge but I was proud of what I achieved. The bores were ovalled, scored and the crank was definitely ovalling, but I did the best I could with it and got another 11k miles of pretty decent performance out of it before it gave up keeping oil pressure and developed the death rattle!

I bought another short block from Stan Barnes (‘Vaultsman’ of this parish) several years ago. It was from his ‘Rebekah’ project and is a late 400-prefix 2000 block. Stan had had the crank ground before I bought it, but it’s since been dispatched to a classic Mercedes engine shop in Crewe who are boring it out to accept NOS +0.060” 9:1 pistons, taking the swept volume up to 2048cc.
The flywheel has been skimmed and the crank will be harmonically balanced to (I’m told) +/- 1 gram (!!)

My existing recon cylinder head should still be good after a clean-up, check and quick re-lap of the valves. I’ll be refitting my preferred HIF6 carbs to it, as per a previous modification.

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Meanwhile, I’ve got a replacement gearbox for reconditioning. It’s a genuine 23k miles ‘box from a ’73 TC, and will get new bearings, layshaft and seals, but the gear-clusters and selectors should still be good. The current ‘box makes the sound of a slide whistle on the overrun, so is almost certainly beyond saving!

Next up is the bodywork. The car has always been remarkably solid structurally (main reason I bought it) but does need some attention on the trailing end of the OS sill, where some older repairs are thinning a bit.
The majority of the panels aren’t worth saving, so I’ve started sourcing what I need to make a up a good set, and am going to send them to a local classic paint shop with a good track record in the area. It’s staying red (what else?) and will be a bright signal red shade from the RAL paint code system. And lacquered of course - you will not see me with a polishing rag!

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The scuttle panel was removed today to be sent for a trial spray - partly to check the quality of their work, partly to check the paint shade I've settled on looks the way I want it when actually on a panel. If I like it, I can keep it without having to worry about respraying it again with the other panels to get the same paint batch, as it's barely visible on the car with the bonnet closed.


After that it can become a rolling project. Brakes need another rebuild (I DIY’d it 12 years ago, but don’t fancy them after all that time standing!). Suspension and steering also need a refresh. Interior is complete but tatty, but that’s all easily sorted as self-contained projects.


It’s the fiftieth anniversary of its registration on 1st July, so let’s see how close I can get it to drive-able in time for that!


I'll post my updates in this thread. Looking forward to being part of the CRF community again. It’s good to be back….

Michael
 
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Good to see you back, Michael! I’m a long standing member of the CRF & remember you from before.

My Rover projects are taking a bit of a back seat at the moment with another classic being made ready for its MOT, but the three of them are all MOTd themselves & are run reasonably regularly; hopefully more now that better weather should be with us soon.

I look forward to seeing your progress. I had a ‘72 TC for 9 years & remember it fondly.
 
In for a penny!

I dropped the scuttle panel off at the body shop this morning to have it painted up as an example of their work. It's a pin-straight panel so should come up well. It's going back to bare metal, so hopefully no nasties will be lurking under the umpteem layers of paint!
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The body shop is on the Wirral and has done loads of classics. They showed me round a bay-window camper they're currently working on. It was completely back to bare, and had a load of guys going all over it with flatting blocks and fine filler. The owner seems to have obsessional attention to detail, which is just what I'm looking for! Fingers crossed for a good result.

I've settled on RAL 3002 'Carmine Red'. I'll be going back next week after the paint has been applied and flatted back to discuss the lacquer finish. I'm a bit particular ("fussy", what?!) about the finish as I'm not keen on the 'Liquid Glass' finish that's quite popular these days. Thankfully, these guys seem very happy to indulge me!

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Next step is to collect the remaining panels... I've got 10 out of the 19, so over halfway!

Cheers
Michael
 
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Pulled the front of the car off today. The inner wings and general frontal area had always been in good order, but I was still pleased to find no nasties had developed over the years of hibernation. The suspension top link mountings are also still totally solid (phew!)

Next step is to push it outside, remove the bonnet, and pull the engine and gearbox with the crane. It then becomes 2 separate projects - an engine/gearbox project back in my cellar, and a bodywork project at the garage. I'll also assess and rebuild/replace all of the other 'stuff' in the engine bay while the engine is out. It can then get a fresh coat of satin black and new stickers!

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Plenty to do, but enjoying getting stuck back in. Breaking it up into separate 'work streams' in my head also helps keep it feeling manageable.

Michael
 
I like the oil cooler. Is that a Revotec fan?
Thanks. The oil cooler was a late addition to try and keep the thing going after it developed a bit of bottom-end grumbling. Didn't really add a lot, but it'll be staying.

Yes, it's a Revotec control unit (the fan is a cheapo eBay 16" push fan, but does the trick). I've got it wired via a 3-way switch on the dash to give 'off', 'auto', and 'manual on' functions. Fab bit of kit - well worth the money.
 
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Are you still able to get the rear mainshaft bearing?
I haven't looked into it in proper detail yet tbh. I usually just measure up the old ones and order replacements via simplybearings or somewhere. But if that's an unobtainable size as you say, I may have to start a hunt, as I don't quite fancy that price! :-s
 
I haven't looked into it in proper detail yet tbh. I usually just measure up the old ones and order replacements via simplybearings or somewhere. But if that's an unobtainable size as you say, I may have to start a hunt, as I don't quite fancy that price! :-s

The price in the ad is the same as JR Wadham charges for the same bearing. Simply Bearings etc, will sell you a bearing with the correct OD, but a larger ID, and a sleeve inside to bring it down to the correct size. The problem with these is that tightening up the rear flange forces the sleeve out of place and locks up the gearbox. There are ways around this but they're not exactly straightforward, and would involve making your own sleeve, and machining the speedo drive gear to suit.
 
There are ways around this but they're not exactly straightforward, and would involve making your own sleeve, and machining the speedo drive gear to suit.

Okay, thanks for this insight. Very helpful. It looks like I don't really have a feasible alternative that doesn't require a lot of thought and similar expense.

Are all the other bearings ordinary sizes and fairly 'gettable'? I have looked and the layshaft bearings are ball races, not needle rollers, so I assume the layshaft itself isn't a consumable as it is in BMC end-on gearboxes?
 
Are all the other bearings ordinary sizes and fairly 'gettable'? I have looked and the layshaft bearings are ball races, not needle rollers, so I assume the layshaft itself isn't a consumable as it is in BMC end-on gearboxes?

Apart from the rear bearing, AFAIK all the others are readily available. 2000/2200 laygears rarely have problems.

Have a word with "The Rovering Member", as he has a stock of new OE gearbox parts, including a laygear, first motion shaft, and a couple of bearings, plus a gasket or two and other odds and ends.
 
Apart from the rear bearing, AFAIK all the others are readily available. 2000/2200 laygears rarely have problems.

Have a word with "The Rovering Member", as he has a stock of new OE gearbox parts, including a laygear, first motion shaft, and a couple of bearings, plus a gasket or two and other odds and ends.
Thanks. I'm hopeful this gearbox will be in fairly decent order as it's a proven 23k miles box from a one-owner car (only removed so a Type 9 could be fitted). Fingers crossed the laygear, selectors and synchros are all good. The bearings are also likely to be fine, but I want to replace the obvious consumables just for peace of mind (especially seals). When all is said and done, it's still a very old gearbox!

I'll drop a PM to TRM when I open the box up and see the lay of the land.

Cheers
 
Wow! What a haul. Okay, I'm going to start pulling this box apart in the next week and will give you a shout when I know what I need.

Have also been speaking to a friend who's a professional mechanical engineer. He's advised a good solution if a non-standard output bearing becomes the chosen option, which involves stepping up the journal diameter with a shrunk-fit sleeve, reground to true for a light interference fit to the bore of the bearing.

So plenty of options!
 
Got the scuttle panel back from the painters today. Very impressed with their workmanship and happy with the finish (bare-metalled and 5 coats of 2K & lacquer). I have asked them for a quote to do the remaining 14 panels.
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My only sticking point is the colour. It looked great on the swatches, and even better on the panel in isolation, but when the panel is put on the car in direct sunlight, it looks too far into the orangey end of the red spectrum (very similar to Monza red), and I want a cherry-ish shade.
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This was always going to be a case of trial and error, as I have a very precise image in my mind of the shade I want (and sadly you can't optically scan it there!) so the panel will have to be done again after another round of tester tenths!

Nothing lost - this process was mainly to check the workmanship of the shop and the lacquer finish met expectations, and was priced as a "sample work", so in that sense I am pleased with progress.

Michael
 
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