RECON SERVO OR SERVO KIT
- Thread starter jim
- Start date
arthuy
Well-Known Member
I got a kit from wadhams and have had no problems.
The only problem with doing a rebuild yourself is if the plating inside the servo is rusty. if it is light it can be cleaned and I beleive they can be replated.
Also have yours rebuilt. LSUK will be able to do this and probably have the kits.
I would phone around and see. It does depends on your skill and abilities. if you are not 100% seek professional advice, you don't want to doubt the quality of your brakes.
Arthuy
The only problem with doing a rebuild yourself is if the plating inside the servo is rusty. if it is light it can be cleaned and I beleive they can be replated.
Also have yours rebuilt. LSUK will be able to do this and probably have the kits.
I would phone around and see. It does depends on your skill and abilities. if you are not 100% seek professional advice, you don't want to doubt the quality of your brakes.
Arthuy
JohnGlinn(Cardiff)
New Member
Jim,
I have rebuilt a couple of servo's using kits with no problems.
Cleanliness is next to godliness (apparently).
Regards, John.
I have rebuilt a couple of servo's using kits with no problems.
Cleanliness is next to godliness (apparently).
Regards, John.
I have had two V8's and both servo's leaked (badly! ). I had one rebuilt by a garage and it didn't seem leak anymore but I did have a problem with the brakes pausing before releasing after application. It wasn't anything that would affect safty but it made them a bit odd to use. I rang a specialist up and their advice was the the reaction valve was pobably sticking. This is the plastic bit on the top of the cylinder. To cure it I had to take the top off and work some rubber grease into the reaction valve pin. Worth bearing in mind that this needs properly lubricating when you rebuild.
The rebuilt servo was transfered to my second V8 and worked fine in that for a couple of years. Now been removed during restoration and I'll probably rebuild again to be on the safe side.
Arthuy what is the problem if the plating inside the servo is rusty? Can it just be painted?
The rebuilt servo was transfered to my second V8 and worked fine in that for a couple of years. Now been removed during restoration and I'll probably rebuild again to be on the safe side.
Arthuy what is the problem if the plating inside the servo is rusty? Can it just be painted?
arthuy
Well-Known Member
BB,
It has been a while since I rebuilt mine. I am sure there was an advisory note with the kit.
However looking in the Rover manual I don't think it would be so much of a problem. unless a seal was to pop and fluid reacts with the paint which could then get circulated through the system.
Perhaps John would may be able to clarify this.
Arthuy
It has been a while since I rebuilt mine. I am sure there was an advisory note with the kit.
However looking in the Rover manual I don't think it would be so much of a problem. unless a seal was to pop and fluid reacts with the paint which could then get circulated through the system.
Perhaps John would may be able to clarify this.
Arthuy
JohnGlinn(Cardiff)
New Member
I'm fairly sure that when I fitted overhaul kits to two servos that the interiors were good and I spray painted the outside surfaces only (to improve appearence).
From new (as you know) the servo body is cadmium plated and not painted the reason for this has to be the corrosive properties of brake fluid if a leak occurs and/or for a smooth surface finish.
Jim, regarding your rusty vacuum chamber, a good wire brushing and brush paint with a good quality rust killing paint ought to do the trick (this won't flake in the unlikely event of brake fluid contacting it and paint flakes could damage diaphragms in servo and reaction valve) - I think that it is important to have a smooth inner surface for servo operation.
If you don't like the idea of refurbishing your own servo (if it doesn't work you'll know about it because you have to press a lot harder on the pedal but your brakes don't fail!) then I suggest buying a reconditioned / new unit.
Why not 'phone the club expert on brakes as listed inside the back cover of our magazine to put your mind at rest regarding diy overhaul? Hope all this helps.
Regards, John.
From new (as you know) the servo body is cadmium plated and not painted the reason for this has to be the corrosive properties of brake fluid if a leak occurs and/or for a smooth surface finish.
Jim, regarding your rusty vacuum chamber, a good wire brushing and brush paint with a good quality rust killing paint ought to do the trick (this won't flake in the unlikely event of brake fluid contacting it and paint flakes could damage diaphragms in servo and reaction valve) - I think that it is important to have a smooth inner surface for servo operation.
If you don't like the idea of refurbishing your own servo (if it doesn't work you'll know about it because you have to press a lot harder on the pedal but your brakes don't fail!) then I suggest buying a reconditioned / new unit.
Why not 'phone the club expert on brakes as listed inside the back cover of our magazine to put your mind at rest regarding diy overhaul? Hope all this helps.
Regards, John.
Seems obvious now! Paint and hydraulic fluid. It also occurs to me that any loose flakes may eventually end up in the engine via the servo hose.
As far as rust killing paint goes I can't reccomend hammerite Kurerust highly enough. It's a phospahting treatment like jenolite or trustan but with the advantage that you don't have to wash it off with water afterwards. You obvioulsy have to get the worst of the rust off first but it really does stop the rust in a way that some of anti rust primers often fail to do.
I always use it even on clean rust free metal as it act's like an etch primer. I painted all the tinware on my ariel motorcycle with nothing more than a coat of kurerust and a top coat of japlac. After three years of use in all wheather there is no sign of rusting and any chips have not spread. If I have anything sandblasted I also give it a coat of kurerust before storing as it provides sufficient protection on it's own from the humidity in the atmosphere.
Try it I promise you won't be dissapointed with the results!
PS I suspect it may not be effected by brake fluid so it could be worth treating any internal corrosion iof it's only light.
As far as rust killing paint goes I can't reccomend hammerite Kurerust highly enough. It's a phospahting treatment like jenolite or trustan but with the advantage that you don't have to wash it off with water afterwards. You obvioulsy have to get the worst of the rust off first but it really does stop the rust in a way that some of anti rust primers often fail to do.
I always use it even on clean rust free metal as it act's like an etch primer. I painted all the tinware on my ariel motorcycle with nothing more than a coat of kurerust and a top coat of japlac. After three years of use in all wheather there is no sign of rusting and any chips have not spread. If I have anything sandblasted I also give it a coat of kurerust before storing as it provides sufficient protection on it's own from the humidity in the atmosphere.
Try it I promise you won't be dissapointed with the results!
PS I suspect it may not be effected by brake fluid so it could be worth treating any internal corrosion iof it's only light.