Rear Screen heater revival ?

jp928

Well-Known Member
Car came with heated rear screen, but switch supplied but not fitted. located the wires, fitted the switch, ensured the off side lead was connected. With the switch on, alI I see on ammeter is 150ma - the bulb in the switch. I see 12V at the offside trace, and the near side is earthed. Hard to believe that all the lines have breaks in them - improbable, but not impossible. Anybody been here and been able to fix, tips on how to localize breaks please?
thanks
 
Not on a Rover, but assuming the 'wires' of the element on the glass are contactable............on my previous old car, I was able to find the (two) breaks by use of a meter, sliding the contact along until the reading dropped (sorry, was a long while ago, just remembering!). I marked the areas with felt tip pen, and then an inch either side. I then used (this was on flat glass rear screen) two old steel rules, taped them either side of the break, very close together ( seemed easier than masking tape to get a good line), and then dribbled/poked/painted conductive silver paint (specifically made for this purpose, seems to have high solids content) along the crack between the two rules. Let it dry, then checked for conductance with the meter again, and it worked. Inevitably my repairs were a little bit thicker than the original fine lines, but I don't care about stuff like that - it was a daily driver in all weathers of Scotland, so function came before form (and to be fair, you'd only notice if you went looking). On a different car I had so many breaks in the heater (perhaps someone with a sharp ring had scrubbed the interior of window, or even just demisted it a few times by hand with a ring, or a watch rubbing, doesn't take much on old cars it seems) I bought a stick on replacement, which worked well enough but never looked pretty! In that case yes, pretty much all the wires had multiple breaks - t'was ruined.
 
Thanks. I have checked al the lines with a bright light and cannot see ANY breaks from the outside. will check the inside view next. To see zero amps pulled should mean All the traces are broken, which I think is unlikely....
 
Hi, Disconnect the two wires off the screen and see if there's continuity across the screen.

Colin
 
Open circuit. Near side contact shows <1 Ohm to ground (door striker plate).Up close the traces look a bit corroded. With power to the offside contact I can find volts a few inches out , but its difficult to get good contact, and I dont want to do any more damage poking with a sharp meter probe. I have a couple of little bits of copper strip , so I might put a dab of solder on a bit and crimp it on a meter probe - make a soft contact I can rub on a trace without much fear of damage.
Dont know why I am so involved in this - its not as though its needed much here - once or twice a year in the other cars that have heated screens would be thhe norm.
 
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I have at least one screen just like that...It was working fine then the tab with the connector fell off...It was soldered on to the window and I managed to solder it back on but , like yours, it read open circuit. That screen went missing during rust repairs but I bought a new one after testing six all of which measured nil reading. I installed the best looking one in the end but haven't tested it yet. I'm thinking that the resistance may be huge, so looks like open circuit on regular ohm meter. But stabbing away with a sharp needle produced no flow either, even when the distance was tiny.
 
Dont know why I am so involved in this - its not as though its needed much here - once or twice a year in the other cars that have heated screens would be thhe norm.

I like everything to work as it should, but in this case I can tell you that you are on a hiding to nothing.
The only way is to find every single break and apply contact paint, even then it may not work. The screen will look appalling, every repair will glint in the sun and you will want to put a hammer through it.
Had the same with my Elan, found another screen and tested it before fitting.
 
Inclined to agree its a lost cause. Just have to see if that logic sinks in and I can let it go.
The resistance will not be high, otherwise you wouldnt get many amps through it.
 
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