Rear main oil seal

C

chrisdurtnall

Member
I have a 1970 P6B 3500S.I am sure the rear oil seal needs replacing.Firstly I am not sure whether it is a 2 piece rope type seal or the ring type. Do I have to remove the transmission or can i just remove the oil pan and access it this way ( rope type only) .Any help would be greatly appreciated. While the oilpan is of would it be a good idea to replace the bearings .Just a thought if it can be done from the underside.
 
That should be a rope seal. It can be replaced without removing the gearbox. You need a tool to pull the top half over the top of the crank, and the standard seal isn't long enough to do that. Big end and main bearing shells can be replaced with the engine in the car.
Make sure that the engine breathing system is clear and fitted correctly before changing the rear main seal.
 
Hmm, The 3500S didn't come out until '71. So it may not be the original engine. What is the engine number or more importantly where is the engine number? Is it by the dipstick or behind the lefthand head? Behind the head it will be as Harvey says a rope seal engine, by the dipstick it will be a lip seal engine, which will mean separating engine and 'box.
 
On a 1970 Rover P6B 3500S with the Buick-derived 3.5 V8 you will almost certainly have the two-piece rope rear main seal, which can be replaced from underneath by dropping the sump and rear main TBS bearing cap (no need to pull the transmission unless it’s already been converted to the later lip-seal crank), but it is a fiddly job to sneak the upper rope into the block correctly, and while the pan is off it is sensible to inspect and, if clearances and crank condition allow, refresh the big-end and rear main Mud pump bearings, because they are accessible from below and often show wear that contributes to seal leakage.
 
Last edited:
zjack2025 said:
On a 1970 Rover P6B 3500S with the Buick-derived 3.5 V8 you will almost certainly have the two-piece rope rear main seal, which can be replaced from underneath by dropping the sump and rear main TBS bearing cap (no need to pull the transmission unless it’s already been converted to the later lip-seal crank), but it is a fiddly job to sneak the upper rope into the block correctly, and while the pan is off it is sensible to inspect and, if clearances and crank condition allow, refresh the big-end and rear main Mud pump bearings, because they are accessible from below and often show wear that contributes to seal leakage.
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Thank you for your reply but I cant see any refeance to a mud pump in my manual.Does it have another name? I have standard bearings which I ordered from wins. If the crankshaft is worn then Iwould have to replace with different bearings.Is this correct?
 
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