Hello All Again, Seeking advice, On removing the rubber rear door shut seals I've discovered that the small channel section that fits along the rear bottom edge is totally shot and I need to replace this small 'S' shaped section each side, Is this obtainable or will I have to try to fabricate something?, Also where is the best place to get replacement seals?, Thanks in anticipation, Keith.
Rear Door seals
- Thread starter Wally
- Start date
vaultsman
Well-Known Member
Hi Keith,
I had the same problem on the lower part of the OSR door aperture when I was prepping for the respray. I couldn't find anywhere that did this channel so I salvaged a length of seal retainer from the bonnet I was replacing and adapted it for the door seal. Not much use if, I guess, if you don't have a spare bonnet...sorry!
If you can get hold of some thin steel or aluminium sheet it shouldn't be too difficult to fold the sides over a suitable bit of strip as a former?
As far as the seals are concerned, Scotts list them:
http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/Rover P6 2000, P6B 3500.htm
The relevant numbers are 364071/2 and 364167/8
Cheers,
I had the same problem on the lower part of the OSR door aperture when I was prepping for the respray. I couldn't find anywhere that did this channel so I salvaged a length of seal retainer from the bonnet I was replacing and adapted it for the door seal. Not much use if, I guess, if you don't have a spare bonnet...sorry!
If you can get hold of some thin steel or aluminium sheet it shouldn't be too difficult to fold the sides over a suitable bit of strip as a former?As far as the seals are concerned, Scotts list them:
http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/Rover P6 2000, P6B 3500.htm
The relevant numbers are 364071/2 and 364167/8
Cheers,
The Rovering Member
Well-Known Member
Great minds think alike, I used the bonnet trick for Bruiser too. It works well though the channel is a little larger. You can get the door channel ( Ian does it:- http://www.rover-classics.co.uk/ ) but it distorts when you bend it so on our 2200 I used short, straight pieces to compensate for the bend. That works quite well.
I seem to recall someone on here bent it cleanly by filling it with melted lead first. After bending to the correct profile they re-melted the lead, removed it & this apparently did the job. Depends on your working facilities I suppose.
I seem to recall someone on here bent it cleanly by filling it with melted lead first. After bending to the correct profile they re-melted the lead, removed it & this apparently did the job. Depends on your working facilities I suppose.
I believe Wadhams sell straight lengths of the appropriate channel. A number of people on here have curved it by means of putting a series of saw cuts into the inner edge of the curve so that you can rivet it on threepenny bit style. This isn't a problem for the seal as it stands sufficiently proud of the channel to average out the bends!
Chris
Chris
