rear caliper overhaul

I'm thinking the silica gel may be a worry down the road. The paper slip that you don't get anymore is anticorrosive paper. You can buy the material elsewhere, by the way. Anyway, it works by emitting a vapour that settles on the parts to keep the rust away.

My concern about the silica is you have no way of renewing it if it gets saturated, or even knowing if it does get saturated. Once the gel is saturated with water you tend to get a humid atmosphere even without the introduction of more water vapour.

Do I think it's enough of a worry to rip the calipers out? No, this is a long term issue if it's an issue at all. But no fording 2 foot deep creeks, OK? :mrgreen:

Yours
Vern
 
I thought i'd add a note here on reassembling the pads etc when not actually replacing them. After much careful analysis I've determined that when removing and replacing the outer pad for access reasons (like taking the disc off to get to the brake pipe) they slide out to the rear and go back in from the rear. They wear slightly more at the rear and wedge in so you can't get them in from the front without backing off the other pad first which is a pain to do in situ.
 
Ah, so you remember then. I was beginning to think I dreamt it.......

You summer weight anorak does you proud sir, give it time, polar explorer type awaits you.... :LOL:
for the Aussies and kiwis, in here, an "anorak" is a "PARKA" , rather like a bonnet is a hood and a boot is a trunk......ahh the delight of the english language..o_O
Peter
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
I am working on a set of rear calipers to have as a swop in spare set as I know one of mine on the car has a pitted hydraulic bore and will probably leak soon.
I struggled to get the hydraulic pistons out as they were stuck and 150 psi of air would not move them, I did not have any way to plumb them into a car hydraulic system to pump them out so turned to the old faithful ................ grease gun !
I tapped a 1/4" UNF thread in the end of a male 3/8 " UNF brake line nut and screwed in a grease nipple, then fitted the nipple to the caliper and in a couple of pumps the piston rose out of the bore in a nice controlled fashion. Works on front calipers as well but you have to block / wedge the pistons that you are not wishing to remove to allow the stuck one to get forced out.
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cobraboy

Well-Known Member
Oooh I say steady on.
OK so thanks to Harvey who kindly sold me some used cups I am now playing at re furbing those.
I found that it is possible to remove the centres by threading in a bolt then clamping the head of the bolt in a vice and by grasping the cup and turning clockwise whilst pulling hard the centre will eventually pull out. It is held in by a spring clip, to get back in you compress the clip, align the little tag with the slot in the centre section then feed in by hand and then push to the bottom of the cup with a scriber.
The outer cups cleaned up really nice on a belt sander and are going off for re chroming on Tuesday.

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quattro

Administrator
Staff member
I tapped a 1/4" UNF thread in the end of a male 3/8 " UNF brake line nut and screwed in a grease nipple, then fitted the nipple to the caliper and in a couple of pumps the piston rose out of the bore in a nice controlled fashion. Works on front calipers as well but you have to block / wedge the pistons that you are not wishing to remove to allow the stuck one to get forced out.
I was helping Ian Wilson put his car back on the road and we had this problem; the piston refused to move. I got the grease gun and undid the tip of the gun where it fitted over the nipple until the little jaws inside opened enough to fit over the end of the P6 bleed nipple, then tightened it up again. Used the bleed nipple of the other caliper in the other hole to seal it off, then was able to apply the full pressure of the grease gun to move the piston.

Richard
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
I was helping Ian Wilson put his car back on the road and we had this problem; the piston refused to move. I got the grease gun and undid the tip of the gun where it fitted over the nipple until the little jaws inside opened enough to fit over the end of the P6 bleed nipple, then tightened it up again. Used the bleed nipple of the other caliper in the other hole to seal it off, then was able to apply the full pressure of the grease gun to move the piston.

Richard
That has to be worth remembering :)
 
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