Rear brake pad change procedure

#2
Car in good nick, i.e. the underside isn't rusted solid from 30 years of inattention? If so, then just jack up the car, remove the drag screws and the locating plates & springs (noting which way the locating plates are — 50/50 chance they are wrong as Harvey often points out, check out his posts for the right way round) and knock out the outer pads. Inners should now come off easily.

And that brings you to the tricky bit — winding the adjuster back in. If you happen to have the proper tool, you're golden. If you don't, it's awkward but doable with your fingers. Wind it until it starts to click, then position the tab at the top. If that is a lot of trouble, then you might want to take the disc off for better access.

After that, it's put it back together and crank on the handbrake lever until the adjuster takes up the pad gap.

Yours
Vern
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#4
Personally I always remove the discs and handbrake linkage. Then wind the piston back into the caliper (no special tool needed), fit the new pads to the caliper and operate the handbrake quadrant while sliding the disc in between the pads. Once you get a nice running clearance refit the discs and halfshafts. Once you get the hang of it it should take a maximum of 45 minutes for the whole job.
 
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