Power Steering Box Removal - Refit

SydneyRoverP6B

Well-Known Member
Staff member
I have only removed one before from a Rover, and that was from one that I was helping to dismantle. We had removed the engine and transmission, so that made it somewhat easier I am assuming. To remove and refit, what is the best way to tackle this exciting task? Mine is leaking a lot more than it used to, so I am considering taking it out.

Ron.
 
I too was contemplating the removal of my steering box too as it has been leaking.
Having recently purchased the car I don't know the extent of how much although it has perished the link to chassis bush.
Then there is the seals to find.
I used to sell steering fluid with stop leak , thought I might try it.
It has an additive which "freshens " the seals. Nothing to loose?
 
Hi Ron.
Have taken a few out over the years.
If you have factory A/C it's a bit tighter to get to but I normally remove bonnet and scuttle panel and this greatly improves access.
Worst part I think is trying to refit steering coloum into splined part of steering box, 2 people make it easier and breaking of the track rods without damage to the gaiter can be fun ( you can buy aftermarket boots for these if your unlucky)
Clive.
 
Hi Karl,

My power steering pump leaks a little also, from the join between the two halves, but then it has been doing that for over 20 years :rolleyes:
I am always wary of using 'stop leak' additives, whilst it may fix one issue, it may well start another.

Hi Clive,

My Rover does not have air con, so that is one less thing to worry about ;)
I do have a tool for breaking the taper at the track rod to drop arm connection, same style as shown as in the work shop manual. It however is too large to fit on the power steering box side :(
Appreciate the tip :)

Ron.
 
I've done it on a friends NADA 3500s. Strangely access is better than a manual box on a 2000TC LHD. (The carbs get in the way on those).

It's been a while but IIRC it's something like this:

Under bonnet:
Have catch can ready at hand

Disconnect input line from pump

Disconnect coil - lead

Hold line in can and have friend kick engine over in a few short bursts to empty reservoir into catch can (be ready for a lot of fluid!

Disconnect return line to pump

In wheel well and under bonnet:
Break ball joint connections for track rods under box

Inside car:
Remove drivers glove box

Remove bolts securing steering column panel (under dash)

Loosen clamp bolt at bottom of steering column from under dashboard

Swing column away to disengage

Under bonnet:
Remove bolts securing box to body (not sure if RHD cars have odd 'hollow nut' at front of box, it's a pain to loosen)

Pull box forward and up making sure to catch and keep shims under box that are captured by bolts/studs

Reverse the above to reinstall. Make sure everything is clean before refilling with steering fluid (I believe it's red ATF). Once you've refilled reservoir use same trick above for draining to refill partially as you don't want the pump or box running dry at first.

If I recall correctly removing the scuttle panel and wiper drive assembly helps a lot. Bonnet can stay, I've not found it awfully annoying.
 
There's a special stud with two threads at the front of the box. Don't lose it! Also, make sure you refit any shims in the same place they were before removal!
 
There's a special stud with two threads at the front of the box. Don't lose it! Also, make sure you refit any shims in the same place they were before removal!

Thanks Alistair :)

I am going to give a stop leak product a go. If that fails to correct the leak, then the box will have to come out. :(

Ron.
 
Hi, The trouble with those 'stop leak' products is they work by attacking the rubber of the seals and make them swell up, they're not really a permanent solution.

Colin
 
Hi, The trouble with those 'stop leak' products is they work by attacking the rubber of the seals and make them swell up, they're not really a permanent solution.

Colin
What Colin said. You'll end up having to replace everything in the next two years if you use it.
 
Hi there,
regarding the power steering box: the top of mine has a good coat of black silicone all over the bolts and cover? Do the boxes leak from that area?
I guess that is probably the reason for the coating...

I also read the workshop manual and find that berried down in the box is an oil filter that needs periodical cleaning, has anyone done that job? easy or a pain to do???

Peter
 
I also read the workshop manual and find that berried down in the box is an oil filter that needs periodical cleaning, has anyone done that job? easy or a pain to do???

Hi Peter,

You'll find it inside the reservoir. Take the domed nut off, then carefully lift off the lid. The rubber sealing ring will likely come with it.

On the leaking front, I have not seen them leak from the top, although that doesn't mean that they don't. Mine is leaking from the grub screw on the side. but the vast majority is coming out around the shaft, onto which the drop arm is attached. The stop leak expander that you mentioned may be quite ok in the short term, but further down the track I should do something more permanent. I'll need to buy some correct diameter low pressure hose of the appropriate transmission fluid resistant material. I already have the high pressure hose, having purchased that some 30 years ago.

Ron.
 
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Not that I actually know what I'm talking about (!), but I would be inclined to treat a 'new old stock' hose from thirty years ago with the same contempt I would a similarly old tyre! I think I'd rather take it with me as a pattern, and maybe as a donor of fittings, and have a hydraulic hose specialist make up a new set of hoses. That's what I did when I put power steering in my car, anyway.
 
Not that I actually know what I'm talking about (!), but I would be inclined to treat a 'new old stock' hose from thirty years ago with the same contempt I would a similarly old tyre! I think I'd rather take it with me as a pattern, and maybe as a donor of fittings, and have a hydraulic hose specialist make up a new set of hoses. That's what I did when I put power steering in my car, anyway.

I can appreciate that point of view. Mind you, the one that is in my Rover is the original from 1974, with over 357,000 miles of use, through endless heating and cooling cycles. The foam rubber sheath that encompasses the lower portion sort of melted years and years ago, but the rest of it is in pretty good nick, with no discernible cracking or other points of concern. My NOS item is in its original packaging, and is kept in the dark inside a cupboard. Given the evidence at hand, I feel that it will probably be quite ok to use. Both low pressure hoses are also 43 years old, and they too look fine. The quality of the rubber in these hoses must be truly exceptional.

Ron.
 
After due consideration, I decided to use Nulon Power Steering Stop Leak & Conditioner. After just two days of use, the leak has stopped. :) I will at some point down the line renew the power steering box, all the hoses and put a seal kit through the pump.

Ron.
 
Well it's five years on..... how well did that Stop Leak stuff work? My PAS box has leaked for some time, seems to have recently gotten worse. I'll do anything to not have to remove that box!
 
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