Power loss when idling.

Scimitar1976

Scimitar1976

Member
The scenario is, I'm moving down the road at about 30 mph and indicate left. The indicators flash a a regular pace with no problem until I stop at traffic lights. The indicators now flash very very slow and sometimes stop for a long period. The gauge on the dash is holding mid way between + & - and doesn't move when I raise the revs but the indicators flash faster. Is this a voltage regulator problem or a alternator problem. Thanks in advance and hope that someone has electrical knowledge.
Regards Terry H
 
what you describe isn't uncommon, the voltage at tickover is a bit low for the flasher unit to work properly, i would check the cars voltage engine idling, if you have over 12.8 you have enough, especially if the voltage rises to 13.5 or more at higher revs, if thats ok it could be a tired flasher unit
 
Thanks, at under a tenner for a new flasher unit it may be worth a try. Readings on my volt metre at the battery on tickover was 12.5 and at 2000 revs was 13.4. The gauge on the dash doesn't seem to move very much.
Regards Terry H
 
I would have thought that you would have got 13.5v on idle and up to 14v on a rev. When you did the readings was all the electric items off in the car?
 
"When you did the readings was all the electric items off in the car"

Yes no electrics running at all. I'm not good with electrics but I thought I should have 14v or a little more at 2000 and 13v and a bit on tick over. The last time I had a reading low like this was on my MGB GT and I changed the alternator on that and it was fine after. It's about £80 for a new alternator, that's why I'm asking here first.

"You could fit an electronic flasher unit"

Not sure what I would have to buy for this.
Regards Terry H
 
I am no electricity expert but like you I would have thought it would have been pushing out a bit more than that on tick over.
I found I got misleading readings on my multimeter because the battery was low on the meter very annoying.
I would take two readings one from the back of the alternator and from the battery.
See what you get and then try cleaning up all the connections at the battery side and alternator then see if you can get better voltage readings.
If no better I would say that the alternator has become weak some places can rebuild them.
It would also be prudent to check the condition of the battery as well.
 
Thought about taking a reading from the battery with engine and ignition off then forgot too. Another thing, my clock runs slow, would this have anything to do with it.
Regards Terry H
 
Ban306 said:
I would have thought that you would have got 13.5v on idle and up to 14v on a rev. When you did the readings was all the electric items off in the car?
Click to expand...

on a modern car yes, you would usually have 13.4 at idle but on a old one, not always, especially if the battery is taking a lot of charge
 
Has the car been off the road for a while?

My car gets slow indicator syndrome if I don't drive it for a few months, but soon gets back to normal if used regularly again.
 
"Has the car been off the road for a while?"

I believe so, I've just bought it and am going through a period of fault finding. I'm concerned about driving at night or early evening with very dim lights with the alternator not putting out a good charge.
Regards Terry H
 
It might pay to go through and clean all the earth points on the car, all the lighting earths as well as the main ones.
 
"The earth wire will come off the battery to the body of the car"

Yes I can see that one, but having had a Scimitar for fifteen years I was thinking there may be others around the car.
 
There is near the battery on the side of the boot, some up near the main relay on the inner wing, and some more the other side in the same place. Just look for any black wires bolted to the body of the car, usually in clumps.

The big one to check is the engine earth strap, which runs from the engine to the underside of the engine mounting on the left hand side (looking forward).
 
Hi Terry, I saw your question about the clock. If you take it out you will find an adjustment screw behind it. You can adjust it and then run it for a day to see how it worked, then adjust again etc. I did that to mine, and now it works quite accurate.
regards, Barten
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top