pertronix distributor - how to do a proper conversion ...

bandito

bandito

New Member
Hello!

Listen to what I spent all my Christmas money on!
I bought a pertronix performance distributor for my P6
(2000 from 1970 with a 2200 SC engine) from the USA!
The ignitor is already built in and everything, the vacuum unit,
flyweights and springs are all brand spanking new.

Last Saturday afternoon I took the (perfectly well working)
Lucas distributor out and plugged the pertronix in. Not a problem.
I think I got the timing right and the engine started one time
and ran (really well, much more agressive and smoother than before)
for about 20 seconds. Then the engine stalled ...

I scratched my head and touched the ignition coil that was still
near boiling point.
A little while later I tried again. Got some spark from the coil to the distributor, but none at the plugs.
Coming back here and researching the question
of coils in a little more detail I learned, that the Lucas coil is fed by 10
volts only and produces a fine spark because of the smaller impedance
of 1.4 Ohms. Here is the snag: the pertronix piece needs a 3 ohm
unballasted coil to make a decent spark.

Ok, go and get one! The blue Bosch 12V 3 Ohm coil arrived today.
Just put it in and half heartedly tried the whole new setup with
12V ( rather 11.5V cause the battery is flagging after all the trials)

Now I wonder: Am I on the right track? Who can describe the proper
conversion from the original coil to a 3ohm coil and the electronic
ignition setup? Where do I get 12v to the coil from?

(And who has time on Saturday to try it all out?)

All the Best, :;):
 
Hi,
I recently fitted the Lumenition Magentronic ignition to my 72 2000TC.

This unit is identical in operation to the Petronix and Aldon systems and requires a 12 volt coil which I happened to have in my spares package.

Like you I assumed that the original unit must have been ballasted, it was too corroded and dirty to tell. But when I tested the input voltage I was getting 13.5 volts with the engine running.

I have now researched this on a factory wiring diagram and as far as I can tell there is no ballast resistor on my car and the Haynes manual whilst not my favourite reference book also indicates that not all 2000's had ballasted systems.

Mine runs wonderfully with the electronic system, starts idles and picks up better than ever. If your car now runs properly and you get 12 volts on the positive side of the coil then I suspect you had a ballasted coil fitted incorrectly.

If you are getting less than 12 volts supply then cut the coil wire about twelve inches short and check the voltage there. I don't know about Rovers, but most BMC/Leyland cars had the resistance wire in the last part of the feed wire.

Steve
 
Perused the various diagrams in the SM and have come to this conclusion:
The ballast resistor is used in those cars having the pre-engaged starter (as opposed to the inertia starter).
The feed to bypass the resistor being on the starter itself.
Hope this clarifies the differences.
Dick West
 
Organ Doctor is correct that the bypass feed would come from the starter solenoid, however my car has a pre-engaged starter and no ballast resistor.

It is still easy to check by putting a voltmeter to the coil positive terminal with the ignition on, with a ballast resistor this reading should be LESS than 10 volts.

Then with the meter still connected crank the engine, if the voltage reading rises you have a ballast wire and a bypass wire. If the reading falls or remains constant you have a standard feed.

However I've just looked at the Petronix web site and as far as I can tell their system should work with both ballasted and conventional coils.
 
Hm.
I put the old distributor and coil back in and everything is working the way it used
to. I will try it again, when the gashes on the back of my left hand
from turning the engine and getting caught on the sharp bits behind the fan
have healed.

Could it be, that the original setup with just the distributor swapped and
feeding directly from the coil, where 10 rather than 12 volts are available,
could have worked for a few seconds, until the voltage on the coil
dropped even lower, as it does as the engine continues to run for longer?

Do I just need to feed 12v to the distributor permanently, when ignition is switched on and all will be well?
I don't seem to need to swap the coil then and replace the direct feed
from the starter motor.

(T.B.C.)
Have a good weekend!

:;):
 
Jo!

The Pertronix distributor is in, works just fine.

When I have the carb sorted we will know more.
If you have a spare SU HIF6 AUD631 for sale
please let me know.

Enjoy the weekend!
:D
 
Last week i also fitted a Lumenition Magnetronic ignition kit. It took me a while to sort it out properly but the engine now seems to start and run better. Well, the old points had about 7000 miles in them anyway.
However, before the car was running on a Lucas sports gold coil. Just to be on the safe side, before fitting the magnetronic kit, i retrofitted a standard Lucas coil that was in the car.
Now the question is: Will the magnetronic kit work with the Lucas gold coil, or it is going to release some expensive smoke?
If it is only resistance that matters i can obviously measure it in both coils to find out. But is this enough?

Thanks,

Demetris
 
Hi Chaps,

It might be worth checking out Aldon's website aldon auto. I am sure that you will be able to find out what ohm rating of coil is best suited to your cars. I seem to remember that 4 cylinder systems use a coil rated at 3 ohms, and 8 cylinder cars need a coil at 1.5 ohms.

I've just fitted the Aldon ignitor kit to my V8, with the 1.5 ohm flame thrower coil.
 
Yesterday afternoon i measured the impedance of the two coils. The standard Lucas was 3.2 Ohms and the Lucas gold 2.8 Ohms.
So i thought that it would do no harm to try. It seems to run better with the uprated coil, i guess because it can handle easier leaner fuel mixtures.
Today i will try my new leak down tester to see how things are going...

Demetris
 
I just got a quote from Aldon which I`m sure is a major rip off. £146.88 for the distributor and £76.38 for the electronic ignition parts?! Pertronix responded to my query also with, "we have distributors with the electronics ready fitted for British A and B series engines, but are currently still developing the system for your Rover 2000TC. Surely there must be an error with BOTH these responses?! Pertronix do a `British` 4 cylinder dizzy with the leccy ignition fitted for about $186.00, but it doesn`t say it will fit the Rover. :p Confused, Bristol



Edited By kiltyarse on 1204197431
 
You don't have to buy a new distributor!
You need just a kit to get rid of the points and condenser. The Lumenition magnetronic is just a small bit that you will fit inside the distributor. When you will install it just make sure that the advance mechanism (both centrifugal and vaccum) is not seized and ... that is all about. The kits cost anything from 75 to 90 pounds depending on the supplier. I had no immediate need to fit one right now, but a friend had a new surplus kit that was giving away for 50 pounds, so i took the chance. The kit code is i think MTK3 and will fit all Lucas 25D4 distributors on negative earth vehicles.

Demetris
 
I do need a new distributor. Mine is sh***ed! The centrigugal advance doesn`t work, and the rest needs rebuilt. I`m aware of what goes into the old unit, and what that costs on it`s own, I fitted it to a different car years ago. :D I`m no mug mate!



Edited By kiltyarse on 1212428056
 
Just fitted a new electronic dizzy bought from ebay, with the help of a forum member who sent me the details. Very easy to install, plug n play almost! I still have the standard coil as was in the car when I got it, still using the old ignition leads, and I can tell the difference immediately. The car picks up a lot quicker from standing, and is much more responsive on the throttle than previously. I don`t have a timing light at my place, but am happy with how it runs at present. My only query now is that after driving about 5 miles and stopping, it took about 4 attempts to get it started again, when this didn`t used to be the case? :D
 
Old leads, same power supply?

You need to feed 12 V permanently to the distributor, straight from the
fuse box.
The original system drops to supply only about 10V after warming up.

(no time now)
 
It hasn`t done it again, must have just been a touch of weirdness! :p ?
Had my timing light sent through from my old place, and now it runs like a sweetie! Did about a hundred mile trip in it yesterday and there`s a HUGE improvement in how it runs now. No sluggish standing starts at junctions, I can overtake other cars now! Even a 15% hill was no bother, and that`s with two other fat blokes in the car! All in all, the best £58.50 I ever spent! All I need to do now is sort out the annoying oil leaks, swap the rotten front valence, and the dented rear and find better doors :laugh:
Just wondering.....will it run even better with a fancy coil and forty quid ignition leads!!??

Drew
 
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