P6B S Project Car

I checked all my spare heads and exhaust manifolds and I have a mixture of gasketed and no gasket ones. I'm thinking they probably came without gaskets as per Harvey and the manual but the ACL top end kit came with gaskets so mechanics subsequently put them on during an overhaul...
 
That explains P6Bs with gaskets, but doesnt explain why SD1s call for gaskets from the start. If I get some in my gasket kit I will probably fit them.
 
My car has them, but it's a right 'Bitsa.'

Just something to look out for though. The gaskets on mine covered part of the port and I had to remove quite a lot of several of them.
 
My car has them, but it's a right 'Bitsa.'

Just something to look out for though. The gaskets on mine covered part of the port and I had to remove quite a lot of several of them.
It's also very easy to fit them the wrong way round, in which case a lot of the port is covered.
 
Starting more research for LT77 conversion. Have 2 types of supposedly SD1 rear mount brackets, as below. Anybody know why these 2 types exist - different models, different trannys ? the narrow one sits flat , but the edges of the big one are not level.
58asE9n.jpg
 
The only pic/dwg I can find of the rear mount for the BW box looks the same as the narrow mount, exactly the same arrangement as for the LT77.No pic of rear mount for the GM180.
 
There is a reason on here somewhere... I think it is part of a thread for putting a lt77 or zf auto into a P5.

SD1 used two stage cast headers. The four into two section was attached to duel pipes steel pipes that then merged into singles for each side. The joint is at the rear of the engine and in quite a different plane to the flanges. I think they added gaskets to allow for vibration in the system and for the different temperatures from front to back.
 
Mike, that starts to make some sense...as long as you refer to exhaust gaskets? Those 4->2->1 headers are well regarded for efficiency, pity they wont fit in a P6.
 
More testing in prep for LT77. using the 2 angled rubbers into the mounting plate I found the outer ears of the plate were 75mm from the floor. Fitting the rubbers into the 2 vertical threads (as in the old notes) the outer ears are 45mm from the floor. Using that mounting would raise the box 30mm, unless spacers were used. Will have to decide which to use when I can measure where the prop shaft line should be.
mCYL9kj.jpg
 
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The LT77 notes say the lever is threaded M10 - mine doesnt look modified, but the top is threaded 5/16-18 , ie UNC. the main shaft of the lever is sleeved with black plastic, and the knob I got recently is a firm fit on that - needed some lubrication to push down, and doesnt seem to bite on that thread. Its tight enough to be in no danger of slipping off.
 
Got a look tonight at an SD1 parts book (crap!) and found in the S2 copy a diagram of rear gearbox mount -looks like the wider one above. Couldnt find it in the S1 book.
Since the last pic I have cleaned up the lever retainer and painted it.
 
JP, looking at your picture of the back end of the LT77, i see i am missing a piece here. It is the piece that looks "V" shaped below the gearstick stem. (does that make sense)! I've not got that bit with my LT77 so wondering what it does and well the hell do i get one from. Its listed on Rimmers as UKC3159.

Also in your picture above, i like the idea with the rear bobbin mounts. I have the wider mount which i found with a label on saying SD1 auto crossmember. I also have the rear crossmember from the TR7 (came with the gearbox) and looks slimmer but wider. I have just returned from abroad, so will get some pictures on at some point and take it from there.

Good stuff.
 
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The V shaped part is my version of reinforcing the part that holds the lever ball in place - below is the inspiration for the reinforcing, from a Triumph web site. Without reinforcing the plate with the single screw through it, it eventually breaks off.
3K6niZ1.jpg

I also added some more at the front to stop it flexing at the back.
oZDCpXo.jpg

UKC3159 is listed as NLA, but there is one in ebay.ie just now......if you dont have one at all, grab it, and reinforce it. Rare as hens teeth.
 
Starting on the LT77 work. Emptied the tank, as I plan to replace the reserve tap Oring...which I could swear I had,but now cant find. Plenty of time. used the huco pump to get the last fuel out, having siphoned 95% out. With an export waterpump with viscous and multi blade fan, the fan will have to come off completely. Once its up in the air I will start soaking the exhaust manifold nuts with penetrating stuff, but still expect some breakage there, meaning manifolds off- good time to ceramic coat them.
 
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First issue - the studs that fix the fan blades to the viscous are too long to allow the balde assembly to be removed easily - would require rad removal. Thought about removing the viscous from the pump shaft, but the studs would stop that as well. Going to try to tilt the engine with the fan blades unbolted from the viscous, as that will allow them to sit vertical behind the rad. Although its not mentioned in the WSM or the LT77 notes, I have diconnected the throttle shaft from the carbs. Its up on the quickjacks, thats enough for today.
 
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