P6B S Project Car

Do you have any rubber bobbins on the exhaust?

There is bracket you can fit what looks like bump stops too. They are often missing but worth fitting as it stops the exhaust hitting the body.

Mini bump stops

If you look around the underside where the brackets are there is a pressing, I think this is what they are for.
 
The FREE muffler came with its snub rubber in place - part 500901. Initially I thought it was missing, but on closer examination I found it.
 
Gave up waiting for a genuine 'do not slam' sticker for the boot, and I widened the search, and found a Jaguar version...cant see a part no. Best part was its a local source, and post free!
Jaguar & Daimler 'Do Not Slam' Label
CODE: BD36198
 
Do not slam sticker arrived- neat, clear, looks good.
See separate thread on speedo fluctuation - swapping to a spare speedo shows problem is in the actual speedo, not the cable or gearbox. Off to the instrument repair shop. Clock needs work too.
 
Started on mud flaps today. The outer bolt into the guard eye was easy enough, but the other 2 fixings of the strip that holds the flaps were very corrodded self tappers with their heads to the rear. Starting with the offside (no exhaust to worry about) ,bolt out easy (this side cheese head screw, nearside a hex bolt head), got the PKs loosened a bit, but they wouldnt come out, so hacksawed them. The guard brace this side was noticably bent forward, so that will need some persauding back to its proper place. Starting with generic rectangular flaps, a fair bit of cutting required. Will replace the PK screws with 1/8 bolts like the outer ones. GAC628 are shown with 3 bolts. Anybody got a scale diagram of these,or even a pic please? Not that I have seen any available.
 
Offside flap fitted - very fiddly getting nuts onto the rear, even with the wheel removed. Its bottom is ~4" below the bottom of the guard. Much longer and there is the risk of backing up to something that makes it touch the wheel, then there is the risk it will get ripped off when the wheel turns - seen that in the past. Its fairly firm rubber - I recall the flaps on one of my TCs were generic fabric reinforced rubber, much more flexible than these new ones.
 
Near side flap done. Again, the plate thats part of the base, and is attached to the bottom corner of the guard was bent forward - not as far as the offiside, but still obvious. the small strip that clamps the flap to the plate has 3 holes in it - outer bolt to guard and 2 smaller holes for PK screws, but on nearside there was no screw, or hole for it at the top-inner position - had to drill a new one. Took a couple of tries to get the cut out for the exhaust pipe right, but fits well in the end. Pics might follow.
Obviously needs more work - nearside slightly off square, and needs to be wider to fully cover the tyre's width. At least I now have a pattern for all the fixings. Anybody got a pic of genuines installed - GAC628 ?

Update - Wins advise they intend to do a run of GAC628 later this year - hope the price is manageable!
PnO3wXG.jpg
 
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Having a lot of trouble finding a gear lever knob for the LT77. One new one on ebay finshed upcosting A$84 landed...no thanks. I have one unmodified long lever, with a 5/16-UNC thread, and a very short one with an M10 thread. Found a cheap knob with metric adaptors that will fit the short lever, but dont like that lever. So, i bought an m12x1.25 bolt,cut the head off, drilled it in the lathe, and tappped it 5/16-UNC, problem solved....Next?
 
Is it likely that an EFI cam for my 3.9 will not do well on carbs? Intending to go to 9.35;1 pistons, and at least run it in on the current carb set up, and then sometimelaterlook at fitting the EFI set up I have - depends a bit on how well the carbs work. I believe the std 3.9 is timed Inlet 32-73, Ex 70-35. Should I look for a different cam ?
 
Look pretty good, thank you! If Wadhams dont come through with some new ones, any chance you could take a pattern off 1 please?
 
Realize that, but either side would be a better start than anything i have now! nearside ideal starting point though.
 
NO RUSH! Absolutely no hurry, when next you have a reason to be in that area will be fine.
thanks!
 
Somehow I blew fuse 10 while I was doing an R&R of the clock and speedo...so in goes another blade fuse adaptor. Apart from the instruments this fuse supplies the windscreen washer, and in my case the Huco fuel pump slaves off the pump connection, so its critical.
 
Is it likely that an EFI cam for my 3.9 will not do well on carbs? Intending to go to 9.35;1 pistons, and at least run it in on the current carb set up, and then sometimelaterlook at fitting the EFI set up I have - depends a bit on how well the carbs work. I believe the std 3.9 is timed Inlet 32-73, Ex 70-35. Should I look for a different cam ?

EFi cam makes barely an difference. Other than it is cheaper and easily available if you want a factory item. In general even with the autobox stage 1 or 2 cams which will have more lift/duration than the EFi are fine. The standard level of tune is so conservative it won't turn it into a TVR.
 
Thanks for that Peter, much appreciated. I had a Disco2 3.9 2 with R380 in Saudi, and even with their poor petrol it performed very well -revved sweetly, never lacked power. Should do well in a much lighter chassis.
 
Thanks for that Peter, much appreciated. I had a Disco2 3.9 2 with R380 in Saudi, and even with their poor petrol it performed very well -revved sweetly, never lacked power. Should do well in a much lighter chassis.

There are loads of choice in cams, the Buick 215 ones are compatible too. This is actually a rare area where aftermarket parts are proven to be more durable than Rover OEM - it's almost as if the Americans know a thing or two about making cams for OHV V8s - who knew?

I have a Crower cam - this one: Crower 50229 Crower Power Compu-Pro Performance Level 2 Camshafts | Summit Racing - I see it's nearly DOUBLED in price since I bought It! ($114 for me)

I can't tell you what contribution it makes on it's own but I'm about 30bhp up on standard and it idles like a dream and pulls cleanly - it was measured at 118bhp at the wheels with more to go but due to the auto trans and shifting was not accurately measurable. That gain came with 10 bolt cylinder heads, richer needles and the "Montego air filter trick". So guessing at 130bhp at the wheels means 170-175 at the flywheel as a rough approximation. There might be another 5-10bhp in there with new rings. I plan to go for a better exhaust and EFI and hit 190-200 and beyond that I'm thinking the chassis without radical work becomes the limitation - I'm slightly wary of 4.6 conversions due to the torque and the diff/rear axles, I'm think for my safety and rather have a smaller but more keen to rev engine which makes my feel like I'm faster anyway... I only have 185 tyres but boy does the suspension give fantastic grip - it's pretty difficult to unstick a P6 on dry, well surfaced roads even if they are a little bumpy and this was the key to the appeal back then. Some 50/60s cars weren't terrible to drive but things like the MGs with a live axle were great until you caught a bump in a corner at the wrong point and you could end up in a hedge.
 
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