P6B S Project Car

jp928 said:
Got the wiper spindles as high as I could, but they still dont sit well in the valance grommets. The near side wiper spindle outer washer (asymmetric one) doesnt seem to sit properly, dont know quite how its supposed tofit.?
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The O/S (drivers-RHD) washer sits with the defection downwards, the N/S asymmetric one sits with the deflection upwards.
 
Really?? That way around I doubt I could get the nut fitted at all! Will have a try tomorrow! And that spindle is the long one.
The parts book shows both wiper spindle outer washers concave (dished side) facing upwards....but we know that book is not always correct.
Alos, in the WSM it says 'final fine adjustment can be done with a knurled nut at the cable outlet '.... ??? No such nut visible or shown that I can see/find ? The rubbers around the wiper spindles look thicker on near side - normal ? I might see what things fit like if I remove the rubber between the valance and the heater body. Or even swap the rubbers on the nearside spindle around?
thanks
 
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Got the valance installed pretty well - had to use the original top rubber. A bit difficult to get the outer ends screwed down - ran out hands to pull the end into place, and get the screws started. Wiper spindles close to parallel. Fan control lever not quite right - can get to high speed, but it bounces back a bit. fixing that will require access to the shaft end to loosen my locking nut, and that means the valance will have to come off again, not quite up to that exercise right now. The fan actually blew some dust out of the demister ducts, so its working much better than it used to,so thats progress.
 
The trick to getting the ends in is to use a long, 12" blade, phillips head screwdriver with a sticky end. You can then attach the screw to it, insert into panel hole and push the lot down into the body fitting. I'm still trying to post the photos off my phone...
 
Close to my way - I have a pair of forceps that I hold the head of the screw with to get its point in the hole, then switch to long bladed philips driver.
 
mikecoombs said:
The trick to getting the ends in is to use a long, 12" blade, phillips head screwdriver with a sticky end. You can then attach the screw to it, insert into panel hole and push the lot down into the body fitting. I'm still trying to post the photos off my phone...
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I use blu tack on the screwdriver.
 
Having got the heater almost done....went for a drive for first time in weeks! all good,no leaks.
Now for the exhaust - 2 wrong size cans made in a single one piece unit by some doofus - first can in permanent contact with the base (its 4" longer than it should be), rear can shorter than true. Just to be sure the free parts Ipicked up would fit I separated the front joint and checked that the olive from the new parts would fit - YES! Being all in one piece I was betting it wouldnt come out easily, and so it turned out. Despite disconnecting the left drive shaft it wouldnt come out, so I had to cut it. The front olive was actually formed as part of the pipe,which I havent seen before. Anyway, its all out now, going to clean the new used bits up, (already kilrusted ) paint them, transfer my fibreglass insulation, and start refitting. One olive is very good, the other is holed, so now trying to locate one locally.
9MzVZup.jpg
 
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harveyp6 said:
The O/S (drivers-RHD) washer sits with the defection downwards, the N/S asymmetric one sits with the deflection upwards.
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And that was how they seemed to want to fit back just now, but could not convince myself that I was not making a comedy set up for people to stare and tut at - just seemed weird to have it so different, but doesn't fit any other way. Thank you Harvey - and thank you from my cat who was sitting on the wing waiting to be blamed for it all ;)
 
Exhaust plan failure 1 - fwd going pipe from front muffler is 100mm/4" too long - with the muffler hanging on its rubbers the front end is that far past the end of the front pipe. Going out to see if I can get this fixed, now that I have burnt my bridges with the old pipework.
 
The new front going pipe needs to be cut back 85mm, than it should fit. Neatest way will be if I can find a muffler place that can flare a pipe end to suit the olives we use,easy to cut 85mm off and flare the end.
This is the floor mods that were done to try to accommodate the foriegn longer muffler can.
https://imgur.com/AyJajIO
And comparing the foreign muffler with a proper one...
c6WHK8N.jpg
 
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When I examine the rear end of the main pipe more carefully guess what I find? The 2-1/4" main pipe has a section of 2-1/8" pipe pushed inside it.....85mm long, with the flare on the end. Funny that .
 
Every exhaust place I have been to says 'need the car here to get it fixed'. Finally have given up on doing it any other way, so started on putting the nasty oversized front muffler back on so its drivable. Got that done - it will bang on the floor or the diff nose a bit, but I only have to travel a couple of kms, so I can put up with that. Go to start it to check noise level.....choke knob pulls right out of the dash. No chance it start in our current temps. To quote kenneth williams (?), "Infamy, Infamy, they've got it in for me!" Some body sure has.
 
Having trouble finding a choke cable with locking feature locally. Very confusing list of part numbers for different years - exactly when does 'Late Models' apply? I put out feelers for a used one locally, then decided to look at the old one. Silver soldered the knob where the cable end came off, then couldnt get the end of the inner to pass right through - something catching the end, despite having ground it to a slightly rounded point. While I was trying get past that I broke the end off the outer. Damn and blast. removed the whole cable - hidden nut is 3/4" ,undone with a 3/4 tube spanner cut in half, and a slot cut in it. After calming down, managed to reassemble the end ~1/8"-3/16" shorter - worth a try. And I could get the cable all the way through - bonus. It took some fettling to get the soldered area of the knob stem to get within 1/8" of fully home, but figured that would do as the gap would be pretty much invisible. As I needed to remove the screen valance to make the cable outlet point easier to see, and to fix the heater vent lever issue, off it came. Laced the cable through from inside, and managed to get it to reach its fixing point on the carb without major issues. And it starts and behaves! Win No1. loosened my nut fix on the heater vent control shaft, levered the arm off the shaft a touch, pushed the lever to its stop pin, pulled the inner lever to the bottom and checked I had high speed fan working, locked the nut on the shaft up. Win No2! Now all i have left is tightening the hidden nut, and refitting the speaker and grille. Very good day's work if I do say so myself.
 
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jp928 said:
Every exhaust place I have been to says 'need the car here to get it fixed'. Finally have given up on doing it any other way, so started on putting the nasty oversized front muffler back on so its drivable. Got that done - it will bang on the floor or the diff nose a bit, but I only have to travel a couple of kms, so I can put up with that. Go to start it to check noise level.....choke knob pulls right out of the dash. No chance it start in our current temps. To quote kenneth williams (?), "Infamy, Infamy, they've got it in for me!" Some body sure has.
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Had system done from manifolds back by Daadler in Station St Box Hill in 2016 by Brett Paine (according to the receipt). Am not sure they are still there but did find them on the net 98904444, thought they had closed and moved to the Dandenong branch. Good job and used a nos Luckey central muffler.
 
Interesting. Might explore that supplier. Thanks.
yes, moved to Dandenong.
 
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"Got the wiper spindles as high as I could, but they still dont sit well in the valance grommets. The near side wiper spindle outer washer (asymmetric one) doesnt seem to sit properly, dont know quite how its supposed tofit.? "

Probably a bit late now, i was just looking at somebodies pictures and remembered that the tubes the spring runs through are not particulaly hard and tend to bend a bit when out of the car AND the clamping to the wheel boxes needs to be slightly loose so the boxes can rotate a bit when adjusting otherwise the tubes bend and twist making things worse....You can hand bend the tubes gently
 
Back on the exhaust issue. My free front muffler is off an auto, and looks like the one listed as auto by Wadhams - end to end it measures 107cm. As I said above the inlet pipe is 8.5cm too long to fit my manual box car- conversely my main centre pipe is 8.5cm too long. looking at Wadhams pic of their manual box (R69) it looks a LOT shorter than that, and the front pipe seems to have fewer bends in it than the auto muffler(R79). Anybody have a manual box muffler They could measure please, and/or visually compare with the Wadhams pics ?
The ruler is 1220cm.
pB1HhbQ.jpg

thanks
 
Moving along now. As the innner tube of the main pipe has an OD of 2-1/8", it has an ID of 2". I had a man cut a piece of 2" pipe and flare one end to suit an olive - this is a Jag part, slightly bigger than ours, but same part no as a Rover part.
KXroLpV.jpg

Without a muffler on the pipe it looks like below. Note the end of the 2-1/8" flared end into the 2-1/4" outer pipe. With some rotary wire brushing on the inside of the pipe to remove corrosion and exhaust deposits I was able to get at least half the new stub pipe inside - the new flare needs to be level with the end of the outer pipe, so my plan is to cut the pipe off about 1" further back to leave room for the 3 bolt flange.
ysK3RGc.jpg

If I ever need to fit a proper manual type muffler, adding a spacer tube in here will be a lot easier than this work - no cutting etc!
Hope to be back soon with good news.
 
Almost all done! The cut on the big pipe is not quite square, but I left some space for the flange , the first muffler hangs on its rubbers correctly, and the join is aligned fore and aft, if not quite at the exact angle. Getting the rear muffler on was the usual struggle. Once it was bolted to the hanger I loosened off the front muffler flange so it could self align. Started her up - sounds correct now, no rattles , one tiny blow at the new joint. When I fitted the new rearmost hanger I put it on the rear face of its bracket, and its now at an angle, so I will move it to the other side tomorrow. The genuine part (GEX7438) seems to demand a fearsome price for what it is - saw one somewhere >GBP30, so I went for the cheap replacement.
ROVER P6 MOUNTING STRAP FOR REAR EXHAUST SILENCER ORIGINAL STYLE GEX 7438 | eBay
A$80 with shipping!
 
Road Test! And success! The annoying drone caused by the foreign muffler riding on the body is now completely gone, and the expected quality is restored. No noises at all from the muffler area, just a little bit of new odour - most likely from the fact that I wrapped the rear muffler in fibre glass webbing and ally flashing. I found on my long ago 4 cyl cars that the rear muffler has the shortest life, as it heats up slowest, cools down fastest, and therefore corrodes fastest.
 
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