P6B S Project Car

Shutting the drivers shin bin is difficult - not obvious whats causing it. Anybody have a pic of what the bulkhead should look like there please?

Fixed - a little relocation of the speedo cable required.
 
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My injection loom has damaged insulation on all 3 wires into the TPS, so I want to pull the pins, fit some shrink wrap . I have the correct (I believe?) tubular tool to push the barbs in to release the female pins, but cannot get them to move at all. I think I can feel the barbs when I push the tube in, then the tool seems to bottom, pin wont come out. Tried turning the tool, pushing the pin inwards from the back then gently inserting tool, no good.
Is there a trick to removing these please?
thanks
 
Back to the carbs.... Starts OK, runs a bit uneven, sort of like a misfire, but not quite like a bad plug or lead. Managed a couple of runs around the block, but with some burps coccasionally. Plugs were sooty, but not fouled, probably due to idling as I manoeuvre into the garage. Cleaned them. Back to basics - reset the jets per the book. Found it quite hard to detect when the jet hit the vertical piece beside the needle, even with very good lighting in there. Finally chose a spot just back from where I could detect the jet moving down a tiny bit, then 2.5 turns in. Starts, but runs a bit uneven, hopefully due to being cold- cant run it much before the smoke detector goes off, and its wet outside today. With better weather will get it out and run it up to temp and see hoe it feels.
Another odd observation - while running yesterday I could see 8-10mm of fuel in the filter, but when I checked after shutdown the filter was full...???
 
Finally got back to carbs. Runs best with an extra 1/4 turn rich. Drives OK, but Innovate says its still lean. Will try a bit more richness. There was a page here with a process for setting HIF6 mixture, but cant find it now?? Adjusted fast idle up some - a bit too far, need to back it off a bit. Where was that bent 1/4 spanner again? Might have to make one - easier than taking the elbows off each time.
 
There are 2 holes in the front slam panel on each side - are these functional - designed to allow air through to the engine, or ??? Strikes me they allow air to avoid going through the radiator, doing something useful for temperature. Down here in Oz the more air that goes through the rad the better.
 
Runs very well now with mixture screws in 2-7/8 turns from jet level. Starts well, but needs temp well up before I can close choke completely - might lift the idle a tiny bit. Good power - have done a few trips around the block without issue, and has run 30-40 mins idling , so I dont seem to have a pump problme anymore...
 
There are 2 holes in the front slam panel on each side - are these functional - designed to allow air through to the engine, or ??? Strikes me they allow air to avoid going through the radiator, doing something useful for temperature. Down here in Oz the more air that goes through the rad the better.

Hi JP,

Providing an increase in airflow to the radiator would certainly be one of the benefits, so would reducing the surface area of the steel required for that section. The holes also provide a pathway for the bonnet release cable but possibly most importantly they provide an increase in bending resistance by increasing the section's second moment of area. The cutouts have folded edges which also increase flexural rigidity.

Ron.
 
Shutting the drivers shin bin is difficult - not obvious whats causing it. Anybody have a pic of what the bulkhead should look like there please?

Fixed - a little relocation of the speedo cable required.
Had the same problem myself last week & found the same solution.
 
With no pressing maintenance I am falling back to cleaning up the injection gear I have, finding some issues. Have new injectors, so pulled the manifold down, cleaned up the fuel rail, oiled the injector Orings, tried to reassemble. Very , very difficult. The bolt down arms for the fuel rail dont go anywhere near lining up on the bolt holes on the manifold, at least starting with the injectors in the manifold. In the end I dismantled the second intake set, for its fuel rail. With no injectors in place the fuel rail arms sat nicely over the bolt holes. Put the injectors in the manifold, problem again. Pulled the injectors, fitted and clipped them onto the rail first - better, but still a struggle to get the holes to line up. Managed to get the bolts in, but it wasnt fun. Am I missing something here?
Managed to get an SD1 sump, for the brace to the bellhousing, which I think is functional, given the extra weight of the iron case in an LT77.
 
The injectors are a bit fiddly, I am assuming you have removed the trumpet base from the manifold?
 
Yes, trumpet part removed. When I started with injectors pushed into the manifold It was VERY difficult to get the fuel rail to engage with the injector tops, so I fitted the injectors to the rail first.
 
I usually put a light smear of vaseline on each end of the injectors then they should push home ok. Don't get me wrong, they still need a fair amount of effort. I fit the injectors to the rail, fit the retaining clips and then fit the whole lot to the manifold one side at a time. New o-rings help, which from a quick Google I think are Landrover part number rtc5679.
 
All the Orings oiled before attempting the fitting. They go into the manifold much easier than the fuel rail end.
 
CURRent plan for LT77 mounting, based on not wanting to make ireversible hacks on the body. USe THE RUBBER BOBBINS in the 2 fwd vertical holes in the rear housing (refer the conversion doco) - these holes line up better with the std manual box mounts in terms of length from bell housing. Mount a flat steel plate on the bobbins such that it matches the layout of the std mount holes, and once the output flanges is at the correct height, make up spacers to reach the body mounts. Some of the other mounts I have seen look similar to this approach. The plate will be about 130x240mm, spacers front-rear will be different lengths.
Comments?
 
Have fitted the flywheeel and clutch to the 3.9 block. Going to fit the gearbox to it and see where the throwout pushrod is when its in contact with the fingers.
 
Have the lt77 fitted. Std length sd1 pushrod protrudes 10mm in front of the bellhousing face. Next (when I get the new slave),to see how much slave piston travel is available. Based on clutch maker's recommended throw at fingers (9mm=13mm at slave piston) am pretty sure I will have to reduce slave travel down from 20mm in the WSM.
 
If the std SD1 pushrod was used, theoretical slave travel would be ~48mm. To actually get this would require master cyl piston travel of 75mm, which I think would be difficult physically. 48mm at slave would be 32mm at the throwout brg, which is way way over the 9mm recommended by clutch maker Exedy. If the recommended 1/4" (6.4mm) spacer was used it would only reduce the travel to 41.6mm, (assuming travel is being limited by the circlip), and give 28mm at the throwout, still way too much. Without any spring to pull the throwout lever back off the clutch fingers the slave is going to come to rest with the throwout just riding on the clutch fingers, zero pressure in the clutch hydraulics. The spacer has obviously worked for some people, but I dont understand why. I am thinking to fit an SD1 clutch master (5/8" bore, 80% of the P6 .7"), and adjust the pedal stop give ~15mm travel at the slave....???
 
Currently the slave piston travel is 17mm - gear changing is OK, barring selection issues in the lever area. No ginding etc. Difficult to get at the stop at the moment. Its VERY close to the stop, but the (new) carpet on the floor limits the travel. There is also ~ 1/2" of free play at the pedal. If I change the master to 5/8" bore , from std 0.7 bore, the travel at the slave should come down to ....13.5mm - exactly what I am aiming at. The pedal play tells me there is room to increase the master stroke.
17mm at the slave says the master is moving 26.5 mm.
 
Every time I get underneath I see new dings in the floor. Starting with the front pax floor- have to check underneath and match what I see with the inside view. Several goes with the 2kg hammer, looks much better. Some work with a wire brush, vacuum out all the dust, rust (surface only)and debris. some of the external coating has detached with the beating. Applied a coat of Killrust inside and out - when thats dried will apply a coat of bitumen .After that, driver's floor. nice big hammer makes the panel beating pretty easy.
 
Went out recently and it bloody rained! After replacing the wiper delay unit with a NOS unit at some expense, fiddling with the little sponge valve and flap,thought it was working. Got one wipe out of delay mode. Off and back to delay,nothing. More work needed.
Bugger.
 
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