P6B S Project Car

I wish I had known about this sooner. Just as I tested the oil supply in my engine, using a homemade tool in an electric drill in place of the distributor, I would've checked my gearbox oil pump for full function before fitting it. I dare say i wouldn't have fitted it, more likely returned it for a refund or repair. Hey ho. Now I know, so many thanks for that, JP928.
 
This pump test procedure is actually documented in the LT77 section of the SD1 workshop manual. Recommend anybody with an lt77 gets a copy of the manual or at least the relevant chapter. The book is too thick to scan on my gear or I would do that.
 
This is for the 4 speed box, the 5 speed will require a few more special tools to remove the 5th gear.
 

Attachments

  • Defender LT77 4spd Gearbox 0verhaul.pdf
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Finally got the car home, pics will follow. Air filter elements - small, 60mm long; going to fit the 166 length units. Screw is 1/4-20tpi so wont be hard to find a longer one. The plate holding one element in place is not really clamping well. Temp gauge seems very slow to read anything - the sender on the inlet reads ~1400 ohms at ~ 15C - anybody know what the values should be ?
Home, bit crowded.
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Anybody know what this relay might be for, given its wire colours ? Seems to switching a brown to a white via a whte/red line.
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Rockers are well encrusted with dried oil vapour as expected. There is no downside in removing the whole assembly, cleaning and replacing is there?
thanks
 
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LHS rockers off.
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Valve gear same.
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Some of the pedestals did not want to come off - shaft pretty bad. New rockers and shafts on the way...
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Not unexpected....but a new set should last my usage . At least the oil seems to have been getting up there, but not been changed often enough.
 
Anybody know what this relay might be for, given its wire colours ? Seems to switching a brown to a white via a whte/red line.

It looks like an aftermarket replacement for the starter relay, i think it is easy to confirm.
 
The flame traps have cleaned up nicely, with some time in the ultrasonic cleaner. The 'rubber' tubes will need replacing - hardened and cracking. The breather behind the air cleaner case will be replaced - it has actual oil visible in it, so I dont think its been doing its job well. The RHS rockers are just as bad as the LHS - took LOTS of scraping to get the hardened dried oil crap off the inside of the rocker covers.
 
Its up in the air now. I have a 'quickjack', and placed the rubbers as close as I could get them to the jacking tubes in the sills, but not actually on the sill covers. Front seal is weeping. Mounts need doing, but not urgent. Worst bit is the pipework into the fuel pump has been mangled and there is a short length of rubber tube there thats weeping, and the metal pipe is rubbing on the edge of the mount plate. I guess I will have to allow the tank to drain somehow so I can fix this without getting drenched. I have covers I use when I work on the 928 (which has very wide guard tops and a narrow bonnet), so I have put these on the car to protect the paint, but I have to be careful I dont bump the sidelight tell-tales because they are under the covers.
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I would be looking to drop the oil pan and clear that out. The sludge I found in mine was up to the strainer ! I would not be using an engine flush on that motor though, too much crud up top for that.
That'll keep you busy for a bit :thumb:
 
Yes, was not contemplating a flush for exactly that reason. Can I drop the pan with the engine on its mounts, or does it need lifting? The oil in it is fresh, and the seepage from the front seal is like honey, but the oil in the valve gear and the feed hole is nice and black - is there an explanation for that? I can easily poke a wire down the oil hole in head some 7-8", so at least that much is not blocked.
thanks
 
Excellent! And if I keep the filter in place while I drop the sump I shouldnt have any pump priming issues ?
thanks
 
Looking at putting an Accuspark on it, and checking the coil (Lucas DLB101) for resistance I find its a 3 Ohm non ballasted - was there a change point from ballasted to non - car is a 74 Chassis suffix D? Seeing full battery volts at the +ve terminal so definitely not ballasted - makes the Accuspark easy.
The slow petrol leak just by the pump is going to be a pain - tank is half full - whats the best way to empty it? Open a union up the back at the tank? Does the filler have anything in it that will prevent me introducing a hose to siphon some out?
thanks
 
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The slow petrol leak just by the pump is going to be a pain - tank is half full - whats the best way to empty it? Open a union up the back at the tank? Does the filler have anything in it that will prevent me introducing a hose to siphon some out?
thanks

There should be an anti-syphon tube in the filler neck. If this is a leak by the mechanical pump, if you raise the front of the car you should be able to fix it without draining the tank.
 
MMMMMM difficult to get the front that high with the jacks I have, but will give it a go next chance.
thanks
 
Not much of a siphon blocker - only took a few minutes to get a hose to the bottom of the tank, and when I separated the hose up front after the siphoning finished there was barely of drop of leakage. From underneath it was apparent that the reserve switch must be up the front cos its not at the rear! Apparently specific to certain chassis ranges, and Manual cars. When the delivery pipe is fitted in its clip on the side of the block its end is close to the pump inlet but out of alignment, so made a loop in the new joining hose, with the hose clip (new stainless quality types) screws easily accessible this time - took me ages to get the rearmost old clip loosened off. I might protect the loop from exhaust heat with shielding. Hope not to have to go in here again until I fit an electric pump. Put a few litres of fuel in so I can check for leaks tomorrow. Big new air cleaner elements are here, just waiting for the long 1/4-20 bolts to arrive.
 
Not much of a siphon blocker - only took a few minutes to get a hose to the bottom of the tank,

I did say "should" have one. A lot get removed if the neck/cap assembly gets removed, and a lot more come apart. Now, all I need to do is get my special length of hose, find out your address, and it's free petrol all the way for me from now on.....
 
I did say "should" have one. A lot get removed if the neck/cap assembly gets removed, and a lot more come apart. Now, all I need to do is get my special length of hose, find out your address, and it's free petrol all the way for me from now on.....
Where he lives all you have to do is hold a jug over the filler cap and it will pour out.
 
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