P6B S Project Car

jp928

Active Member
#81
Changed the oil today - HPR30 Penrite. All ok. Went to change filter.It was the tightest filter I have EVER struck, took considerable effort to move. Ryco Z30 looks right on paper, but they are ~10mm too long. Bugger! Already filled with oil too. Put the old one back on. Got a K&N on the way now based on recommendations here. Fired it up, pressure came up fine, then the engine died . Must have been on the edge of reserve. Added more fuel. No start. More tries.....undid union at carb, cranked, got a squirt, reconnected and cleaned up spillage. All good now....it takes a LOT of cranking if the lines are dry. Almost time to lower it and move it into the sunshine...if we get any. Still waiting on Club plates from Vicroads, application has only been in 3 weeks now. FWIW, Club plates are cheap reg for low usage vehicles over 25 years old; only down side is keeping a log of usage, but it saves a bunch of $ - normal full reg is $750/yr here, but club plates for 45 days is $80, or $160 for 90 days. Not as good as the UK arrangement, but better than full cost.
 
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jp928

Active Member
#82
Looking into how to get the SD1 wheels on it ---front hub dust cap needs work to narrow the flange. Good job I recently bought a rattle gun - last fitter of the wheel nuts must have used one to fit them! Would not have moved them without the gun. Outer dia of the flange is around 72mm, the hole in the wheel hub is 58mm, but there is a bevel with an OD of ~62mm. Using lathe I cut the flange back to 62mm then bevelled its edge. Fits in the wheel hub very nicely, and as there is a 1mm deep area around the centre all should be good as long as the dust cap goes fully home on the hub - checking with a straight edge on the mounting face there is no contact with the rear of the dust cap. Might tackle the secong cap slightly differently.... When I bought the 7/16 UNF nuts from US 5 of the 20 had the thread badly eccentric with the shank so I asked the supplier to replace them...no problem. This was a while ago, so I chased up the tracking no - left West coast June 20, processed through NY July 22, arrived in Perth (WA) Aug 10...still waiting for it the cross the continent to Melbourne....Patience is a virtue they say.
 

jp928

Active Member
#83
Got her out of the garage yesterday to run it up. Slightly nose down, shed an amount of coolant that I am pretty sure is coming out of the pump - signs of drips on the harmonic. The overflow bottle fitting leaks both water and pressure, so the rad will get done as soon as the lockdown eases. Tacho seems to read ~900rpm all the time, but the idle was a bit erratic, and oil pressure disappeared once of twice so I shut it down for a bit, until I had to back it indoors again. Temp gauge never got to the green, so I suspect the thermo is dead or missing. Tried to stop the viscous fan at idle with a rolled up newspaper - no chance. It turns freely with engine stopped.

Adjusted the idle stops up 1/2 turn and ran it again. Hardly a drop of coolant ejected this time....curious? Coolant is within 1" of the filler neck. Dwell/tach meter said it was up around 700rpm this time, but still a bit unstable. At least with the new rocker gear its pretty quiet .
 

jp928

Active Member
#84
Another run up yesterday, little coolant loss - maybe the pump is not the issue? Based on the piston lift mixture test, leaned the mix 1/8 turn, sounds a little better. Pulled the plugs and tested compression today:-
1- 132psi; 2-132; 3 -132; 4-137; 5-118; 6-120; 7-130; 8-112
Spec for this CR is 135psi, so overall its in pretty good condition, with only 5 and 8 down much. Didnt enjoy getting the adaptor into the even cylinders , or out again. at least the kit came with one adaptor with plug threads both sides so I could fit a plug in the back and use it to start the adaptor into the head. The hose with a plug thread on the end had taken a set in its case which made it hard to start into the plug holes.
All the plugs were sooty with all the idling its been doing, but gaps were all on spec, electrodes nice and sharp, no erosion - doubt they have done many miles. Ngk bp5.
 
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jp928

Active Member
#85
Recently bought packs of new fuses - checked lengths, and get 31.8mm. Close enough for me. While I was checking the LEDs in the taillights I found the left was coming on as a stop light, not tail. I suspect something has gone wrong with the fitting of a centre brake light on the parcel shelf, and the tail and stop leads confused. Have taken the centre brake out of circuit, and now all is normal. Will sort out the centre light later. Nearly have the headlights and horns on relays - waiting on a supply of bullets to finish this properly.
 

jp928

Active Member
#86
Got the lights and horns on relays - LHS pretty easy, but rhs cramped a lot by the booster. In the end I made up a 2 wire extension, fitted it to the horn, then pushed to lead up towards the top so I could connect it to my relay wiring. I know the horns dont pull many Amps, but they are in the same area, so why not
LHS horn not working, so pulled that off. From the outside the contacts showed open circuit. Drilled the rivet heads off and punched them out. Insides as below. After a bit of abrasion of the points I got a low resistance circuit, so it ought to work. After cleaning up all the crap, I closed it back up with M3 cap screws (had plenty the right length) and nylocs. Success - nice deep note.
 
#87
Radio time! Car came with an OLD Pioneer cassette deck, and I have a late JVC deck that plays CDs and DVDs, so thats got to go in. Wiring in there was a bit of a dogs breakfast , so I had to locate +12V always, switched 12v, and earth first. Not too hard. Front speaker, easy....rear speaker took me a while to locate, but ok in the end. Aerial lead a bit short as the unit doesnt have a fly lead for that. Much nicer now. The unit can play videos from DVD, but I just put mp3 files on DVDs - have some at 1100 tracks, but more will fit.
 
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