P6B S Project Car

The A pillar covers are the only easy part - the stripped screw holes are the issue, and dificulty getting the trim clips to stay engaged.
 
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harveyp6 said:
It's the wrong filter fitted, and the top pipework to the carbs has been changed to accomodate it, so the bottom pipe will probably have been changed to a hose as well, but it could still have a mechanical pump. Electric pumps were NADA only AFAIK. (Except for the VIPs maybe). Your car has the spill return fitted, and they are HIF6 carbs.

FYI the alternator fan guard is fitted back to front.
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Electric pumps standed on aircond cars and late N Z ones. Bob T
 
jp928 said:
The A pillar covers are the only easy part - the stripped screw holes are the issue, and dificulty getting the trim slips to stay engaged.
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Yes, they do this, but instead of fitting a bigger screw, i fitted square plastic inserts, like the ones used to screw the light units on to the wings.
A rivnut is another neat option.
 
Good idea Demetris! If there is a next time I will definitely try one of those options. I already have a range of rivnuts and the fitting tool on hand.
 
Checked the state of the air filters (BIG ones) today - all very clean) and while the can was out thought to check the state of the idler oil. Couldnt find my BIG shifter (24") so had to use the long handle adjustable pliers (known to some as 'cocky-beaks') - oil right up to top, excellent! A bit tricky to get the cap back into the threads straight but got there in the end. Actually squeezed some oil out as I tightened it. All in all the front end is in very good condition - no noises, no bearing or ball joint slack anywhere, very pleased,
 
This is the LT77 lever I got off a wreck recently. The odd part is that when I try to remove the damaged retainer cover (buggered as usual) it wont go over the washer at the top of the isolater thingy. My other lever (cut down) does not have that washer - anybody seen this before please?
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Hi John
Not sure if this helps you? Looks same gear lever set up as mine. I made a cut at the top of what I believe is a ‘shock absorber’ lower part of the gear stick due to an issue I had where the lower ‘fat’ part of the gear stick was fowling the plastic centre console- when I tried to engage 5th gear. It fowled the part I cut off (top ‘disk’ that protrudes mostly). In end it was down to the engine not sitting straight and pulling box over slightly (enough to cause 5th to fowl the centre consul). Thanks to this forum I sorted it fully (problem materialised post new LT77 box fitment). The ‘mod’ has not effected gearstick operation and is not seen just looks tad untidy!
Does this help confirm your lever set up is as expected?

Dave
 

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Thanks. The lever is different from my other 2 - one has nothing on top of the fat section, the other a small cap shaped to fit neatly on the fat bit. Will cut the washer down until the cap will come off.
 
On a good note....Took her out for a run the other day - 50kms of winding undulating 2 lane country roads. In a few places where I could get into 5th (80 kph) I was struck by just how quiet she is, now that most wind noise has been reduced, and sources of road noise intrusion sorted. Really very pleasing to know the work involved has been worth it. I have lagged most of the exhaust system with fibreglass, and the rear muffler (slowest to heat up, fastest to cool down, most susceptible to corrosion) and I think that helps somewhat. The grommet on the foward driver's side of the tunnel is a bit the worse for wear, so will have to replace that one day. Anybody know the size - the book is useless in this area.
 
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Got the front muffler lagged today, first with fibreglass webbing, then covered in gluey ally flashing, secured with big jubilee clips. Did the rear muffler some time ago, so its a bit cruder. With limited space above its messy getting the fibreglass or the flashing wrapped on from a roll , so it looks a bit untidy, but I doubt many will ever see it.
 

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Not sure, I am just looking for extended life and lower noise level. Logically if the boxes warm up quicker they are retaining heat better and its going out as a hotter exhaust. Havent seen any signs of heat on the car body coating - the shiny alloy lagging will radiate less heat than a rough or black surface. While its still in the air I am going to run it for a bit to see what happens to the glue on the alloy flashing....with an extinguisher handy.

Did that - ran it until the muffler lagging was too hot to contact more than a fleeting brush - no sign of smoke or odour from the glue - excellent! And for just-in-case things I have a latest type smoke detector in the garage.
 
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I've read that Rolls Royce used to wrap the exhaust and skin with Aluminium, but that was for noise suppression. On the other hand tubular exhaust manifolds when wrapped to reduce under bonnet heat but suffer from premature corrosion. It will be interesting to see the long term results.
 
I saw the corrosion related to pipe wrapping on TC exhausts many moons ago, so I know that happens. While my front pipes have lots of corrosion showing before I wrapped them I am hoping the fact they are double skinned will help them outlast me. The TC pipes were single skinned.
 
OT, but without actually measuring under bonnet temperatures I am pretty sure that having ceramic coating on the exhaust manifolds has made very little difference. Though aesthetically it looks very pretty!
 
I finally got the A127 alternator fitted and working OK. Could not find anything here that said I should cap off the 18ACR live lead that I think was battery sense lead, so in the end I called the maker in UK. The pulley is a bit smaller than that on the 18ACR, but while I could, with considerable effort loosen the nut on the A127 I could not shift the other nut, so the small pulley is on for the duration. On a full battery I saw 14.2V, and with everything running the ammeter showed no discharge. Next fanbelt will be somewhat shorter than current 1270. I had to cut off the two 'ears' on the fan guard as they fouled on the body. There are 2 live bolts on the back - full output on +, and ~7v on the W terminal. Clad these 2 and the old battery sense lead in shrink wrap.
 
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