P6B S Project Car

In the throes of fitting LED headlights. Outers went well - had H4 type bodies already. Briefly I thought the high beams would take H7 bulbs, but no - I had H4 bodies on hand, H7 bulbs wont fit. Then I tried to fit the H4 bodies into the inner housings...the locating tangs dont fit correctly? Anybody been here or able to advise whats going on please? What type of body should I be looking for that will fit and take an H4 bulb?
thanks
 
Hi JP928. When I converted to LED I found the units I had that were already fitted with halogen bulbs (I did away with old sealed beam units a good while back) took the H4 dual led unit for outer lens ok - the main beam inner H7 led was a very finicky fit however - I had to nip a bit more of the slot (that ensures the bulb is fitted the right way) in order for it to fit securely. The halogen H7 was ok though it appears my Osram make led H7 just not as easy to fit. I found feedback that confirmed others found same issue. I am going to use these in my Lucas 8 fog lights and try a different H7 led unit. They should fit ok as are sold as a direct replacement here in U.K..

Dave
 
Thanks for this. So I should look for H7 type bodies and bulbs? Didnt think this through very well did I ?

To complete the scenario --- An H4 type headlight (our hi/lo outers)has locating tangs on the back (looking at the front) at 3,7 and 11 of a clock face; An H7 (our inners) has its tangs at 2:30, 6:30 and 10:30, which means that trying to fit an H4 housing into one meant for an H7 it would need to be rotated some 15 degrees anti-clock to get the tangs in the cut-outs, thereby misaligning the hi beams.
 
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Hi. Yes agree with that - my new light units I got as a set of 4 and the inners and outer units were matched for the H4 and H7 bulbs for inner and outer units. Annoyingly though the led osrams are just not a good fit. My friend has decided to use H4 twin main and dip units in all 4 positions so he can have twin dip beams on - I recall he did say he had to get 4 x outer style units rather than just buy a set of 4 and fit H4 in the single main beam inner positions.

Dave
 
My plan is the same as your friend - H4s in all positions, which will require some mods to the housings. Seems to only way to get real H7 units is in sets of 4 which I am not up for right now.
 
Finally finished the LED installs - mods needed to the mounts to take H4 type alignment knobs.
While I had the grilles out I decided to add an extra bonnet release, having been severly discommoded by a broken cable in the past. I found some nylon tubing and bicycle brake cable; drilled a 1/16" hole in the small plate that guides the std cable to the latch; ran the tubing from there down the offisde of the radiator to just clear the front valance. This sort of cable doesnt bend readily and is very springy, so it was a bit of a struggle to get it around the release lever and bent back on itself, where I slipped some brass tubing over both long and short bits of cable, and crimped it. I cut the cable that poked out the end of the tubing (dremel), bent it into a loop, fitted more brass tube and crimped that too. Works fine. Until I need it one day it tucks up into the radiator support.
 
Boy, that sounds like an engineering feat!
I just attached a bit of 6mm electric cable (red to match the car) to the release mechanism and ran it out through the valance and around the bumper support bracket.
Mention of the grilles out reminds me that early last year when you picked up the two front seats you suggested that as payment you had some series 1 mounting screws...........
 
Mike, It wasnt that big a job, just pleased I had the right bits to do it neatly and properly.
Its some S1 screw covers that I have somwhere, not the screws themselves. Will see if I can find them....Seems the S2 screws have bigger heads, and there are no covers for them.
 
Is this a sign of an NZ car ?
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And while I am here, how do I get the little curved trim at the door end of the dash back in place? It doesnt want to go over the black felt trim on the body edge, even with persausion applied? Part 369692.
thanks
 
A simple press fit for the series one, by memory. Though I think there may be clips involved.
Assume you mean the U shaped curved channel
 
Hi John,

All 3500 models for the Australian market were assembled in New Zealand. Tell tale signs are New Zealand made glass (it will say next to the branding) and additional plates attached on the inside N/S front guard. Not so easy to spot are the welds that join the pillars back to the base unit.
All 3500S models for the Australian market (there were only 250 imported) came direct, fully assembled and ready to drive, from the U.K.

Sorry, I can't help you with the black felt trim. I have not had the joy of removing or replacing thus far.

Ron.
 
My UK first registered '72 also has visible welds at the base of the 'A' pillar. It wan't a 'knocked down' export car. I guess they were all built this way? The pesky little dashboard end finishing piece is a push fit onto a clip that is hopefully still in place. It doesn't cover the furflex, it fits between the furflex and the dash end. There's a little 'tongue' sticking up at the top and a cutaway shape on the inner edge that will guide it into the correct place. My missus is forever dislodging the passenger side one when she gets out of my car. I am in the habit of looking in the gutter before I drive off if I see it is dislodged again. I've bought one or two off fleabay over the years! I've got a few right hand side ones spare, but seem to keep losing the left hand one!
 
Got the trim on properly, thanks.
Next - roof aerial was coming loose, so sadly I had to go in there - didnt like it last time - visor screw holes stripping. same again. Getting the headlining trim back in place requires more than 4 hands - 2 each side to hold the ends up and another 2 to get the mirror base in place. There are now several innapropriate screws involved in holding up the visor mounts, so I hope nobody looks closely at them. Next major fight is getting the break-away mirror back into the mount....
 
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