P6B S Project Car
- Thread starter jp928
- Start date
GRTV8
Well-Known Member
The air cleaner on the SD1 has a larger inlet bore and the whole unit fits the P6 if you redrill the support arms on the aircleaner. I also used RYCO A1705 filters for better breathing. Did make a difference to the P6b performance.
jp928
Well-Known Member
Noticed on recent runs more prominent wind noise around the driver's door frame. Paper strips in the jamb with the door shut verified the lack of contact between the window frame and the rubber seal. I am not really up for a complete seal replacement, so...sacrilege commencing.
I have an old roll of ~4-5mm adhesive backed foam, so I cut a strip 1/4" wide and glued it on the seal where its visibly depressed by the frame and went for a run - significant reduction in wind noise - not completely gone, but better. Due to the age of the adhesive not all of it stuck well, so I got a fresh roll of gap sealing foam - 19mm (3/4") wide, which is almost exactly the width of the original door seal. The packet was enough to do the window frame and down the rear edge of the door, on both front doors. Road test pending, but optimistic.
I have an old roll of ~4-5mm adhesive backed foam, so I cut a strip 1/4" wide and glued it on the seal where its visibly depressed by the frame and went for a run - significant reduction in wind noise - not completely gone, but better. Due to the age of the adhesive not all of it stuck well, so I got a fresh roll of gap sealing foam - 19mm (3/4") wide, which is almost exactly the width of the original door seal. The packet was enough to do the window frame and down the rear edge of the door, on both front doors. Road test pending, but optimistic.
jp928
Well-Known Member
Doing the front shock rubbers - what was visible looked pretty tired, cracked etc. Surprisingly the off-side rubbers were actually still quite good where it matters, but the nearside were past use by date. Using a home-made copy of the factory tool have the near-side bottom pinned up - the washer started bending which didnt help. With the pin started from the rear I had to depress the front of the washer with a decent screwdriver to get the pin through. It helps to file the pin end to a taper help it through. After a bit more pain off-side done - lots of sympathy with those who have threaded the pin and used a nut! The Koni reds are dry, and VERY stiff, so they should outlast me.
PS - does anybody actually have tool 605227 for fitting the bottom front shocker rubber, or seen one please. Or used one - the home made one I used is sort of OK for getting the split pin started in the hole from the rear, but I couldnt see how to use it from the front to get the pin right through. The home made one is not the same layout, so I may look into developing one myself.
PS - does anybody actually have tool 605227 for fitting the bottom front shocker rubber, or seen one please. Or used one - the home made one I used is sort of OK for getting the split pin started in the hole from the rear, but I couldnt see how to use it from the front to get the pin right through. The home made one is not the same layout, so I may look into developing one myself.
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DaveRover3500s
Active Member
Hi JP928.
I had same issue on mine - drivers door near quarter light part of frame I could even see daylight coming through seal gap was so big! I have good (very good) seals from a 41k well looked after but now broken up 73 car. These will go on over the winter. But over last winter I did a stop gap job to help. I ‘trick’ I picked up from this forum…. Can’t recall by whom, but it worked. Basically the post said to get I think it was 6mm round foam tubing, make a cut into the seal and with some lubricant push the road foam into the seal cavity as far as it will go in. I had to make note than one slit to get enough 6mm roll into seal to do what was needed. I used superglue to repair small slits. Worked a treat very grateful to the person who posted this advise! Made quite a difference the foam in the seal just ‘puffing out’ the seal enough to get it doing its job again- no more daylight. After I did it I was lucky to obtain very good condition factory seals so will fit these over winter - a fiddly job I am told - if anyone can offer advise of best method and tooling to do it I would appreciate it.
Dave
jp928
Well-Known Member
Some where here is a bit about making a tool like the factory one to assist in rolling the edge of the rubber into groove - factory is 600358. Basically a thin washer mounted on the end of rod so it can turn.
My turn - having a great deal of trouble getting split pin into the pin for the diff stabilizer arm. The bushes seem to be poly rather than rubber, much less compressible than rubber - they came from a UK supplier with the diff hanger rubbers. The book says these are different from the front bottom shocker rubber - they are flanged where the shocker rubbers are not. My home made tool uses an allen key as its pivot, and I have broken one, bent another. Tried to find a thinner washer, no luck.
Any suggestions please?
My turn - having a great deal of trouble getting split pin into the pin for the diff stabilizer arm. The bushes seem to be poly rather than rubber, much less compressible than rubber - they came from a UK supplier with the diff hanger rubbers. The book says these are different from the front bottom shocker rubber - they are flanged where the shocker rubbers are not. My home made tool uses an allen key as its pivot, and I have broken one, bent another. Tried to find a thinner washer, no luck.
Any suggestions please?
DaveRover3500s
Active Member
Thanks for advise re the rubber seals. Hope get the rubbers in
Dave
Dave
jp928
Well-Known Member
Finally got the bushes fitted properly - took 2 bites at grinding the flanges thinner - first one got a pin started but couldnt get it right through, second time I also took a bit off the inner end as I thought they were fighting each other inside the tube and then I was able to complete it. Bit of a struggle to get the bolt through the other end at the diff mount, needed some persausion. Not planning on doing that again! Definitely dont like poly here.
jp928
Well-Known Member
Chasing some more wind noise from driver's door window area. Window felt like it was fully up, but on checking more carefully....it wasnt. Found that the channel was folding at both corners, and the front was worst. Snipped a small amount of the inner fold at the front, and now the glass goes all the way up. despite the bad look at the rear, the glass is able to push the folds away.
jp928
Well-Known Member
Now trying out LED bulbs, seeing as they are now not needing bulky attachments etc- Directfit, 4000lumen, 5700K. Got the offside holding thing off with a little difficulty, to find the sealed beam has locating knobs....made of silicone. Bugger. New housing sits in place OK, but the holding ring didnt want to go in at all. Eventually I worked on the holding ring without the housing in place - needed several mods with a Dremel to get it to fit. Nearside- piece of cake, done in a minute or 2. Think they will need some adjustment down.....but nice and WHITE!
DaveRover3500s
Active Member
I am a fan of the latest LED headlights and as you found they now fit into the bowls ok. I saw a previous thread on here about legality of fitting them here in U.K. I read that all pre 1986 cars here it is legal to fit them in place of original or halogen units. You still have to careful though lots crap out there. I chose Osram H7 for my mains and for outer dip/main I purchased from well known seller at the NEC Classic car show Birmingham who knew his stuff and only sells quality units which are a bit more money but work well and fit well. The light is great to have at disposal when needed and the far reduced current draw saves need for relays and keeps fuse box, switches and flasher stalk contacts all safe.
I decided to go all LED now bar indicators as I like to hear the flasher unit doing its work! Sides, rear and brake, reverser lights and interior dash, map and boot all done. Not to everyone’s taste I know! I also took inspiration from your boot led strip lights and also saw a club members rover at Roverfest which had an led strip (about 200mm long) fitted in front foot wells stuck to the underside of the insulation/sound proofing which cover bulkhead and bit between bottom of knee boxes and bulkhead. Makes for a perfect place to stick them though has to be more to the left side to miss the heater outlets. I chose a light blue light not white for these as my car is Corsica blue- does great job with a soft blue light in the footwells.
My only niggle is I have some led flicker when engine running so must have a bit of a ‘dirty’ DC output from my 65 amp alternator. The Osram H7s also seem to be effected but only minor flicker but it’s there. I saw that a very late 75 car that was scrapped had a factory fitted large coil size capacitor wired into alternator output wiring. Never saw this before? Anyone aware of this change and why it was done on the last run of cars? This car was a 3500 auto registered in Oct 75.
I also had bezel trouble when I did mine!
Dave
I decided to go all LED now bar indicators as I like to hear the flasher unit doing its work! Sides, rear and brake, reverser lights and interior dash, map and boot all done. Not to everyone’s taste I know! I also took inspiration from your boot led strip lights and also saw a club members rover at Roverfest which had an led strip (about 200mm long) fitted in front foot wells stuck to the underside of the insulation/sound proofing which cover bulkhead and bit between bottom of knee boxes and bulkhead. Makes for a perfect place to stick them though has to be more to the left side to miss the heater outlets. I chose a light blue light not white for these as my car is Corsica blue- does great job with a soft blue light in the footwells.
My only niggle is I have some led flicker when engine running so must have a bit of a ‘dirty’ DC output from my 65 amp alternator. The Osram H7s also seem to be effected but only minor flicker but it’s there. I saw that a very late 75 car that was scrapped had a factory fitted large coil size capacitor wired into alternator output wiring. Never saw this before? Anyone aware of this change and why it was done on the last run of cars? This car was a 3500 auto registered in Oct 75.
I also had bezel trouble when I did mine!
Dave
jp928
Well-Known Member
Thanks, sort of good to hear I am not alone re the bezel trouble. Had throught about putting light strips in the footwells. I have converted all my internal and external lights to LED, except of course the alternator warning. I got an indicator type can for them, but it didnt work well, and when I refitted the original can they worked - a bit slower than usual, but acceptable.
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DaveRover3500s
Active Member
cobraboy
Well-Known Member
To set up the headlights on new build cars we produced at work in readiness for the UK IVA test we did the following.
Measured the height from the ground to the centre of the headlight. On a large 3 foot square piece of cardboard resting vertically on the ground marked a horizontal line at this height.
With the lights on, held the cardboard 5 or 6 feet in front of the car, adjusted the cut off of the dip beam to the height of the line, then by eye adjusted the point where the beam angles up from the horizontal to be straight ahead from the light left, or right.
Cars passed the test using this method.
Measured the height from the ground to the centre of the headlight. On a large 3 foot square piece of cardboard resting vertically on the ground marked a horizontal line at this height.
With the lights on, held the cardboard 5 or 6 feet in front of the car, adjusted the cut off of the dip beam to the height of the line, then by eye adjusted the point where the beam angles up from the horizontal to be straight ahead from the light left, or right.
Cars passed the test using this method.
cobraboy
Well-Known Member
You should see a horizontal beam of light, with a portion to one side angling up at say 30 degrees.
We set the horizontal beam at, or just below the line on the card, then looking from inside the car directly behind the light guess the left / right location of where the point of the angled beam starts to be directly in front of the light.
Some lights are 'fuzzy' and do not have a defined angle to see the road verge.
You can play with the left to right setting to get the most pleasing location for you, the main thing is to get the height so you do not dazzle oncoming traffic.
For the main beams. set the centre of the light patch at the line on the card.
On my own cars I use the reflective number plates on oncoming cars as a guide, I want my lights to light up their number plates as I get quite close to them, if the number plates get lit up from too far away, then by the time I get closer I am dazzling them.
If you are worried about an MOT test, remove the bezels if fitted and take a screwdriver with you, it would be a hard nosed tester that would not let you have a quick adjustment on the day.
We set the horizontal beam at, or just below the line on the card, then looking from inside the car directly behind the light guess the left / right location of where the point of the angled beam starts to be directly in front of the light.
Some lights are 'fuzzy' and do not have a defined angle to see the road verge.
You can play with the left to right setting to get the most pleasing location for you, the main thing is to get the height so you do not dazzle oncoming traffic.
For the main beams. set the centre of the light patch at the line on the card.
On my own cars I use the reflective number plates on oncoming cars as a guide, I want my lights to light up their number plates as I get quite close to them, if the number plates get lit up from too far away, then by the time I get closer I am dazzling them.
If you are worried about an MOT test, remove the bezels if fitted and take a screwdriver with you, it would be a hard nosed tester that would not let you have a quick adjustment on the day.