P6B S Project Car

Some of the engine bay had lost its factory coating, probably from brake fluid spillage from above. With a bit of help from exhaust heat it developed some surface rust, so.....wire brushed it thoroughly, applied some Killrust, let that settle (pic), than added some black chassis coating. Should last me out. Not rushing the last part in case I miss something that will be hard get at with engine installed.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0934.JPG
    IMG_0934.JPG
    2.3 MB · Views: 18
Another job I dont want do again, single handed! Putting engine & gearbox back in! Having the pickup points at front nearside and rear offside inherently twists the engine and as I adjust the load leveller the offside rides high, nearside low - nearside mount bolt is in line with hole but an inch below it and I cant twist the assembly enough to get it in , while the offside bolt is inches above the hole. Bugger! Having two bandaids on nicked fingers have given up for the night.
 
Bugger, didnt think of that....and its a bit late now. Maybe? If I pull it out and start again is it worth removing an exhaust manifold? Rather not remove the offside ...
 
Last edited:
Going quattro's way...had to make a connector to the nearside head rear, as the bolt spacing is different from the factory part I had - strip of 1" x 1/8" steel. attached nylon rope with D shackles so no chafing. Rope is lighter but am using 8 strands. Similar sling around the bottom of the timing cover at the front. Going to try tomorrow, initially with nearside exhaust mounted, but it would not be too hard to remove if it becomes a problem. Load leveller can become hard work if its not well lubricated.
 
Just a heads up, but when I started tilting the engine back with the load leveller the handle on the load leveller hit the jib so I couldn't use it. The top pic. it's on, and the bottom pic. I have had to remove it and fit a couple of lock nuts then used a socket to turn it.
 
Similar problem here - release valve almost touched the bumper, and lifting pumping was difficult, so I will extend the boom - still listed for 500kg, which shouldnt be a problem, even with LT77 on the end....I think.
 
My load leveller came with four short chains, I bolt on four lifting tabs, one on each corner then hook it all up, once the eye bolts are adjusted the motor stays level side to side.

1748368397693.png
 
Thats certainly a better arrangement than mine, but centering Quattro's way is doable with what I have, and should be a big improvement.
 
Well its in and sitting on the mounts, finally. I hit the same issue with the leveller handle fouling the jib, and had to use a socket. Wasnt quite level laterally so I had to persuade the mount bolts into their holes, but its done now. NOT going to do it again, at least not single handed!
 
A bit more progress - got the rear gearbox mount bolted up, so now the hoist is no longer relevant. About as hard as I had feared, but its good to have it out of the way. Next is get it on level ground (from arse in the air some), get it up on the quickjacks and do the oil pump prime....
 
No more progress this week - have come down with a lurgi again - not as bad a 2 weeks ago, but debilitating. Lets catch this early I thought - rang local clinic at 8:30 - yes, come for 9:30. Same Dr as before -mmm lets do a chest xray and see whats going on. OK, there's a place close to home, So I duck down there. Yes we can do it, might be a 20min wait, ok? Certainly...back home by 10:15.
 
oil pump driver made by a fellow P6B'er...obvious what its derived from.
FadJYd1.jpeg
 
One thing that surprised me as I started idly cleaning the front of the motor was the amount of dirt inside the crank pully assembly. The curled lip at the front was pretty much packed, and the deeper inside was covered as well.
 
Got the power steering pump back in place today, first chance of work in weeks fighting off this lung bug. Didnt enjoy it - have to lace the belt onto the pulleys before bolting it up I found after fitting the bolts...! Have fitted a new belt here, as I hope to avoid replacing it again. Hope the rest of the reassembly goes better. Sundry electrical things reconnected, and the fuel pump.
 
Last edited:
Oil pump primed! Easier than I feared. Marked the dizzy relative to the timing case, and where the roto pointed first, then released it and levered it out. noted location of pump drive dog so I could reposition it. Used a 2500rpm Bosch drill, took a few minutes before I was sure, finding oil coming out the nearside rear rockers. Let it sit for a few minutes for oil to settle, then spun it again, and got fresh flow, so very happy. Nearly forgot to fit a new filter! Repositioned pump drive dog, slipped dizzy in with rotor 30-40deg before its mark and it fitted right in right on the mark. Excellent! Major relief, now for all the easy reassembly work.
 
Last edited:
I have had to do that prime trick with the drill a couple times now. 1st time was due to wrong oil filter with no one way valve. Lost prime following long run and a week standing. Used K n N filter and no more problems. 1st time it took me an age to find the dog and get dizzy to locate correctly it really was tricky one and it was 30 degrees weather so was not happy bunny! 2 nd time I learned from first and had dizzy off, oil pump primed with drill and dizzy back on in about an hour. Practice for this job certainly make it easier! The dizzy refit can be a right PITA!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top