P6B S Project Car

From the engine pic below, with fuel filter visible at front, does it look like it has a mechanical pump? When did electric pumps come in, or were they NADA cars only? Which cars had a fuel spill/return system ? The carbs look like HIF6.
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thanks
 
There should be no movement between splined hub and friction plates. either something is loose or the springs have all lost their tension...Get the latest replacement part. There was a general change in design of clutches around 1984 which gives a better takeup and less rattle.
 
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I separated the box again to get the disc out and replace it. This time I lowered the box onto my creeper so it was easily mobile, loosened it, lowered the engine some more, and it slipped apart much easier than before. The hub is worse than I thought, so a replacement is now mandatory.
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I should be able to get the engine height correct, and with the load leveller, get the rear face parallel to the bell housing and it should go together nicely.
When I installed the clutch and gearbox getting the box to go home was a real @#$%^ nightmare on my own, from underneath, and damage to the disc was quite likely, but it never gave any trouble at all - disengaged reliably, take up was easy to control, height was good. I think the way I separated the box must have loaded the hub, and damaged it, as it was displaced out of alignment.
 
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Yes, rear main seal replaced when first LT77 fitted. Minimal oil signs.
They sure do weigh a lot!

Update - have to buy a complete clutch kit, and they are thin on the ground. Bugger!
 
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Another morning trying to find a height and angle for the block to enable the box to mate up, shaft to go into crank bush - success in the end! Waiting on new clutch now....
 
If you can find one of these from someone who is scrapping a gearbox then you will never struggle again

Yes indeedy! :thumb:

As you'd expect I have one of those, and one for the P6 4 pot, and the 3500S, and land and range rover, and freight rover, and a few classic Vauxhall's. I cut the gears off so I can fit more in the toolbox.
 
Re the speedo cable hole in the tunnel, its 1-1/8" dia. Hoping a 28mm blind grommet will seal it properly,
 
While I wait for the clutch to arrive I thought I would check out why I had a bad time disconnecting the engine steady bar from the LH head to the LH inner guard brace. The bar looks like its attached at both ends with washers and rubbers like the ends of the rear shocks.......but its not quite that simple. The rubbers and washers look the same as the shocks, so you think you can loosen the nuts enough and the head end should slide fwd out of the slot once the shaped washers are disengaged from the bracket. The slot is sized to clear the threaded end of the rod, but - there is a crush tube inside the rubbers that wont fit through the slot, so you have to remove the nuts completely, pull the outer rubber off the rod with the crush tube, and only then will the rod slide fwd through the slot. GGGGRRRRRRR....
 
This is standard Rover engineering of the time. The steady of the 4 cyl engine is also like this.
 
Eagle eye! I have cleaned it up considerably since I took that pic. Her indoors likes to move them with a blower, but I find sweeping them up good for my soul, therapeutic.
 
Finally got a clutch. First 3 people who said they had one took my $ then found they didnt have/couldnt get one. Still waiting on 2 refunds. Mounted the clutch with my own alignment tool - clutch didnt come with one - started to mount the box. In gear, got the faces within 1/4" could still turn the flange?? Thats not right? After a bit of swearing, found it wasnt really in gear fully, just enough to be notchy. Fixed that, all bolted up now. At last! next - put it back in the car!
 
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