P6B S Project Car

Several months ago, after I fitted an electric engine bay Huco pump I decided to add a filter on the inlet to the pump. Happened to glance at it the other day - visible debris on the element already! Down here with 3 grades of petrol (91, 95, 98 Oct) I use 95 in the Rover as 91 has a rep for being relatively dirty, but use 98 in the 2 turbo cars. When I change the filter I will post a pic.
Not the most clear, but the debris is pretty obvious.
5OXaJCS.jpeg



Having to suck through this hasnt impacted fuel flow so far. Would rather not pull the tank to clean it...
 
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jp928 said:
Got something done for a change. Drained the diff day before, and today refilled with nice clean blue Penrite 80W90. Might have been difficult, but for having a pump unit also from Penrite. Fits into a 1 L bottle, as well as the 5L bottle.
Click to expand...
Those pumps are a life saver! I have a similar one and use it for the diff and gearbox. On diff oil front, after lightly toasting Beryl’s diff on Mt. Equinox hillclimb I’m trying Redline’s Shockproof heavy. It’s meant to have a filler to cushion the teeth plus better film and lubrication characteristics compared to conventional hypoid. I
l let you know how it goes.
 
My car came with Koni Reds in the front, which the previous owner thought were a bit on the hard side - I find them quite OK, not hard enough to remark on; combined with the upgraded ARB pressing on is quite enjoyable on suitable roads. Anyway, I wanted to know how to adjust them in case I wanted to one day, so I did some web research. Eventually I found something related to shocks with eyes both ends (Type 80,90?)- look on the top end for 2 small holes where you can get a small but long screwdriver through, push a rubber washer down, extend the shock, slip the rubber out, and then compress the shock, turn until you feel something engage. Turning the top in relation to the lower body then changes the valving. Refit rubber washer when done. 4 settings available, 180degrees each, clockwise is firmer.
Does this sound correct - without removing I think I can feel those 2 holes in the top? If I remove and clean will I find a type or model number on the body?
 
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Re fuel gunk - The main tank pipe inlet is the top of an open pipe - no filter however the reserve pipe is drawn from the base and has a fine gause filter on it. both attach to the same plate so after draining tank and removing plate and pipes you can see what level of gunk you have without removing the whole tank.

Re shock absorbers - I have a set still in their boxes, I;ll have alook at the end of the week and see if they still have the instructions. My memory of my original ones when I installed in the eighties was that you just compress the shock the whole way down and turn. No rubber to remove but i may be forgetting that bit, its been a while.
 
SydneyRoverp6b gave a good explanation of how to adjust konis - I forget how to do it but roughly from memory you compress the shock and twist the top and you can feel it 'click' inside. The part number should be on it somewhere: 80-1666

This explains it and it matches up with the method you described above:

They are reverse acting though, so they have to be 80-1666's on the front.
 
Thanks, that does match what I understand. I asked Koni about this, and they didnt understand my note that they 'extend on bump, compress on rebound', which I found odd.
 
jp928 said:
they didnt understand my note that they 'extend on bump, compress on rebound', which I found odd.
Click to expand...

There seems to be a lot of this type of thing about these days.......
But then again, thinking about it, when it comes to Rovers, there always was....
 
Well, I am starting on a plan to pull the engine and box so I can swap in my recently rebuilt LT77. Starting with 'easy' stuff in the engine bay...stumped by the engine steady rod. Please tell me there is a trick to this. Started on the bolts into head - top one was VERY VERY tight! Different size heads?? Then I see the slot in the bracket, so I loosen off the 2 nuts that end, but not having any luck persuading the rod through the slot...??? Do the nuts have to be fully removed? Very discouraged getting into trouble this early.
Duh! Remove the inner wing bracket?
 
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Bracket and tie rod are off! Bracket not the easiest to do, what with the screen washer bottle mount there. Looked a bit more into why rod wouldnt fit through slot in head mount, but only thing I can think is that its distorted. The 2 bolts I got out are both the same thread, but one is 1/2 head, the other 9/16???? Will fix the slot when the whole thing is out and more accessible. Car is parked nose down on a 2 deg sloped floor, and tank is 3/4 full so I have siphoned close 20L out to reduce inadvertent losses dur to height of tank.
 
Anybody have any advice on whats required to isolate the PAS pump from the engine please? Looks like I have disconnect the pump output so I can unlace the hose from the engine? Lots of fluid loss? Can I dismount the pump, remove the belt, and leave its hoses connected? Anybody have the belt size handy please?

thanks
 
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If the hoses are routed as standard I can't think of a reason why you can't do that, and that's what I would do if I was removing an engine, which I've done many times in the past and I don't remember ever disconnecting the PAS system, and when I removed a PAS system for a conversion and refitted that, I always kept the system completely connected.
 
Got the pump off its mounts, belt off, but cant get the pump past the mounts or below the valance. I think it will be ok as long as I am careful to endure its out of the way when I start lifting. Had to remove the fan blades (export model with viscous and multi blade fan) to get the pressure hose clear. Noticed that the supply hose from the tank is secured to radiator support with clips -- removing these would require removing the front valance. Also notice that my radiator doesnt have the braces shown in the parts book - 570243 and 570258 - were they a late model thing?
 
Get it out! not the easyest thing in the world on your own. Definitely had to remove the LT77 gear lever. Load leveller is a must - it up around 3/4 travel to get the gearbox remote past the bulkhead. With the tail in the air the @#$% fuel tank started siphoning some more.
Time to take it a bit easy as I clean up the engine bay and swap the gearbox. Hope its all worth it!
RfuqbrB.jpeg


I wasnt sure I would have enough liftin the hoist, as the car had been up on quickjacks and the front hadnt really settled, so I kept all the chains as short as I could - the one with the hook on the hoist, and the two picking up the lifting brackets on the heads. It all worked out in the end anyway as you see - forgot to oil the thread on the load levelling screw, so it took some effort to adjust it. I have some new mounts, but plan to inspect the old ones and reuse them if they dont show any degradation - new rubber things dont have a very good reputation. Nearly got caught by the PAS pressure line over the alternator, but was able to get it out of the way.
I took some 18l out of the tank before I started, but I might drain whatever is left into a drum before I start reassembling to make reconnection things a bit drier. Have 2 new belts to fit for PAS and alternator/pump - obvious to do while its all easy. Will clean up as much accumulated debris as possible while its accessible. The book shows 2 spade tag connectors on the starter solenoid, but both of mine are screwed on eyelets; They go back a short way to a 2pin connector, so I will split that connector and screw the eyelets back on the solenoid while its more accessible.
 
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You may consider making the front slam panel and it's two braces removable. It is not much work and means that engine removal and re install are such a breeze.

Engine Installation - What not to do?

Hello So, I have got my rebuilt 3500 motor back from D&D Fabrications, a rebuilt BW35 slopbox and torque converter, and the part I busted on removal from HRH HarveyP6. I am nearly ready to start putting it back in. I have never done this before. question: I am not looking for detail here but...
classicroverforum.net

Post # 4
 
I had looked at that post, but my cutting and welding skills are not really up to it, so I will have to just soldier on with what I've got. At least the hoist was up to the job.
 
OK understand.
Lets assume then you do not have a welder. If you locate all the spot welds along the top and at the brace ends and can drill them with the right size drill so you only go through the top layer, then get a sharp thin screwdriver or chisel and gently peel away the top slam panel and braces off the base unit, you will be left with no holes in the base unit and the slam panel with raggy and holey ends where the spot welds were.
Hammer the ends flat again and take it and a case of tinnies to a mate to weld up.
Then you have a blank canvas to install rivnuts in the base unit to fix it back again.
It was one of the most satisfying jobs in terms of payback I did on my car, and it looked factory.
 
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