P6B S Project Car

Might be a slackening of work here for a bit -had a heart attack last sunday. They tell me its all fixed now - 1 blocked coronary artery, other 3 are in very good condition. Just got home today.
Only job in hand now is to fit some LEDs under the bonnet to improve visibility in a breakdown.
Reminds me - our version of your RAC roadside support has a premium service that gives a flat bed ride to nearest garage, accommodation if breakdown is > 150kms from home etc. BUT if you get a windscreen breakage due to a rock thrown up and its opaque, not safe to drive , it NOT classed as a 'breakdown', service not available!
 
I tend to look after my P6 ,better than i do my own health. Take care jp928. Dont be like me.
 
How is this for an engine bay light? Strip LED stuck to flat part of bonnet reinforcing. Not very elegant getting power to it, and the LED leads are VERY small, light.The white lead from the aircleaner snaking up to the valance is a temp gauge on air entering the cleaner. 10 waterproof LEDs off ebay, A$8.95, free postage. Where will I put the other 9 ?
imB6h13.jpeg
 
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Q1.0 Whats the inlet air temperature when engine warm? and
Q2.0 did the car come with the overflow tank? Mine is a late 1976 NZ build and it didn't but I've seen them in that position on many P6Bs (particularly some at the Flynn Auction had them and some of the same year didn't)
Q3.0 did the radiator come with studs for the central steady plate or is that a later addition. I have both types of radiator ex Flynn (alternative is two captive nuts) but not sure how or why they decided to change it.
Thanks
Michael
 
Mike,
Air temp seems to stay at ambient whilst in motion, but climbs as soon as stationary for more a minute or two. I need to do some observations without the extra hose from the front to see if under bonnet temps behave differently without it. I had until recently a Porsche 928, which has a rear facing air inlet in the V, and a large air cleaner at the back like the P6B. The air cleaner was fed by 2 flexible tubes to the front that collected air from inlets ABOVE the radiator, so they went to some trouble to get cool air.
3ly2Cd4.jpeg

Car came with overflow tank as you see it, and the radiator fixings. I did hear that it might have come from the Flynn collection, as it seems to have had a panel off repaint, but have no evidence for that, apart from paint condition.

Ron, scary, but learned a lot! Note the symptoms - cold sweat, intense, but diffuse chest pain. Pulse OK, pressure OK, but pain that drives everything else out of your mind! Started around 11am, all over with 2 stents in place by 2pm.
 
While I was doing the engine bay light I noticed the rubber seal that fits to the valance was past its use by date - what a surprise! Got a new one in the post, so...Bit painful leaning that far under the bonnet - which I had propped higher than usual - but got it done in the end. The old one waas basically OK on the near side, but breaking up, tearing on the driver side.
 
I have mine now reassembled but yes the screw and pop rivets is really irritating.

In past I had a rover, but as I did now, the heating was very bad. Do this heater take always
cold air from outside, or do it also recycle only the inside air? Mine Toyota starlet is quite
mucho more heat, to hot sometime.s

The plastic inserts where the water hoses are connected are brittle most of the time
maybe 3D printing new ones.
 

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All of the air comes from outside, through that large meshed inlet on the top. My heater is very good although to be honest, he doesn't go out in the cold anymore so difficult to say.

I don't know of any plastic inserts where the water hoses are connected?
 
I think he’s talking about the drain pipe fittings.

@kees66 if the foam seals have gone on the flaps the heater will not be that efficient. Once they are replaced (there’s a few posts on how to dismantle and replace the foam on the flaps on here) you’ll find the heater is a good match any winter. I used closed cell foam strips meant for air conditioner fitting.
 
sdibbers said:
I think he’s talking about the drain pipe fittings.

@kees66 if the foam seals have gone on the flaps the heater will not be that efficient. Once they are replaced (there’s a few posts on how to dismantle and replace the foam on the flaps on here) you’ll find the heater is a good match any winter. I used closed cell foam strips meant for air conditioner fitting.
Click to expand...
And how you did the change so the heat is recycled in the car? because when cold the heater can never get the air warmed enough. if there is a thread who enclose this I like to see it.
 
@kees66 check out this thread:

Heater box teardown and rebuild

Any tips please about refitting the heater box?
classicroverforum.net

Edit: My bad you’ve already been there. Basically, drill out the pop rivets and dismantle the body of the heater. The flaps inside should be coated with a lightweight 3mm foam to help them seal. They tend to crumble with age. Scrape off the old foam, and replace with new. You want to use something very soft so that the flaps don’t spring back. Once done, reassemble heater box.

If you’re concerned the heater matrix is blocked pull it out and run hot water through it. The whole matrix should get hot. If you have cold spots it’s blocked and should be either replaced or recored by a radiator specialist.

Also check the foam gaskets between the heater unit and the body. Of those are gone you’ll never get hot air inside the cabin.
 
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And there is no facility to recirculate air. Not sure what would happen if you shut the air intake, but run the fan. This heater was one of the first to control temp by having hot water always going through the core, but directing air through the core for heat, but bypassing the core when no heat requested.
 
Well, got her out for a run, only second since heart attack. It was a real pick-me-up - ran beautifully, smooth as could be, especially at 2k in 4th she was very sweet, reminded why I like P6s so much. Feel much more positive now. All the mechanical areas seem to be fine, no noises from engine or suspension, or underneath, nothing needs attention. Just cosmetic things to look at finally.
 
Seeing other discussions about refurbing diffs reminded me I havent changed diff oil in any of my cars in a very long time...so now for a first. Its is completely quiet in the few thousand kims I have done, no visible leaks anywhere, but some lash.On a finger its a good honey colour, but in the drain pan there is an impression of very fine particles, not quite glitter, but something really fine in suspension.
The lash is close to 5/16" at the edge of the flange, which is about 9degrees, and I hear and feel take up changes in some throttle changes. Not enough to prompt planning anything yet.....I think? Its an E suffix diff.
 
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