They have a comp each year for best overall driver & car - age of car + age of driver / time up the hill. This Bug (type 37C IIRC) is over 80, so is the driver, so he is a regular winner. Made his fortune in Confectionery - George Hetrel. Car is now housed at the Penrite Oil head office/museum. Note the wheels are different - cast alloy instead of wires.
I may be a little paranoid, but I like to keep a trickle charger connected to little used garage queens, preferably without cutting any holes anywhere, and keep the sockets unobtrusive. So, after a little exploration I found the area behind the boot mounted battery, underneath, complete with a mounting bolt - the one holding the off side guard on. I have used 'Merit' type plugs and sockets before, as they have , to coin a phrase, a positive connector for the positive line, and a cap on the hole - look them up. I ran a fused lead from the battery +ve pole to the rear of the battery, then down and out through a handy hole in the case. Matched this with a plain lead out through the same hole- I like to charge direct to the battery so I can keep it charged even if I have isolated the earth lead to work on the electrics. I mounted the panel type socket (only one available close by) on a piece of 1/16" alloy with its edges bent over to stiffen it. I protected the leads and connectors with heat shrink tubing most of the way, with one small bit of tape at a join. I dont expect too much debris up there as its masked by the battery, and I have the large factory type rear mudflaps fitted.
Charge lead is connected. I can get the plug in by feel, without having to see the socket. Positive lead has a 5A fuse to minimize the potential for damage.
I'm probably too simple, but I use the alligator clips of my Projecta Battery Maintainer to connect to the battery terminals and disconnect them as required.
It does mean that the battery cover stays off most of the time.
Previously I reported being VERY cranky about an instrument place charging me over A$300 to fix the clock, which still lost time, much more than acceptable. Since I bought an instrument panel with a clock in it I though lets see if this one runs, and how well. Didnt run when powered, did briefly when shaken, and it did wind when the contact was made, so the electrics are OK. Read many posts here about clock repair, and noticed some talking of spraying with brake cleaner(but NOT WD40), so....lets try that. And ...it runs, and winds! Now letting it run to see how accurate it is.
Made a mistake with the charge socket. Its metal body is the earth, so mounting it on metal provides an earth path for the battery , but only for small currents. Pulled it off today and replaced the bracket with some very dense hard water proof 1/4" ply. Good as gold now.
I'm thinking that most clocks are overdue servicing may be the issue with mine. Runs slow, very slow. I've been playing with old clocks and pocket watches for a longish time (less so, well, not at all now die to eyesight, patience and ironically, lack of spare time). The original oil they were lubricated with is often the problem, it's dried out, and combined with some dirt, causes drag. WD40 prob won't help in long run in that case. Strip, clean, check all shafts and bearings, sparingly re-oil with correct clock oil. It's a lot of work, and there may be wear needing replacement parts, and watchmakers who do this are getting thin on ground. I wouldn't bother with mine as it's a major faff and I've only done this a couple of times, and only once successfully! A real skill. But if you know a friendly watch or clock servicers, they would be the people. Apologies if this has already been discussed previously.
Seeing as I couldnt get the hands off, a spray with degreaser was an easy option, and it worked immediately. Its run all day today, a tiny bit slow, so I tweaked the adjustment (difficult with such a small screw to see how much), reset it to my phone, and letting it run overnight.