P6B S Project Car

Parts book says the 2 bolts up into the block holding the clutch dust cover are 5/16-UNF - surely these are UNC like the sump bolts?
 
Parts book says the 2 bolts up into the block holding the clutch dust cover are 5/16-UNF - surely these are UNC like the sump bolts?

yes 5/16unc. I've removed, cleaned and re-tapped them using the original bolts so know that it is indeed unc.
 
Having failed to check the reverse light switch before installation of the box, I was condemned to fix it in place. Remove the big rubber boot. Select reverse. Check switch closed - NO! The big hex at the top is 15mm. About 3/4 of a turn inwards, we have contact.The thin locknut is 14mm, but its very difficult to get a spanner on it from above, so I gave it a couple of taps with a hammer via a screwdriver. Reverse lights are GO! Nice and bright with white LEDs too. Unless something else comes up I guess I will have to fit the tunnel finisher now....
 
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Tunnel finisher fitted. Longer run on new box today - still adjusting to the feel of the clutch, but changes are much nicer. Car seems to be going better overall, happy to be run up the revs more than before. No noises from underneath, so thats welcome. Trimmed the flange on the bottom of the SD1 lever moulding so it would fit into the boot -nice and tidy now.

Starting on the job to fit a Moto-Lita Cobra wheel. I chose this model partly for the look, but mostly because its std bolt pattern will allow me to drill mounting holes for the P6 boss - 2.5" pcd - without interfering with the Cobra holes - which are asymmetric. The only issue I have found so far is the centre hole is too big for the cap to clip into, so I will have to make up a new tab plate with a 1.5" centre hole. Easiest done with alloy, but not sure if this will last. Not that the cap is going to be removed/replaced very often. Bit of 1/16" alloy sheet, hole saw, nearly there! All I need now is 3/8 drill and we will be there shortly.

How does this look?
DYcvv5j.jpg

The alloy centre is thicker than std wheel, so I got some 1" 1/4-UNC and cut them down to ~5/8 so they would clamp but not bottom. The plate I made for the cap to clip on to needs some more work - the cap is slightly loose. Lets see if irritates me on the road. The dish is less than the original, but I dont have a reach problem. This is the 15" model, with 'thick rim' option. Note that the extra thickness is NOT in the diameter of the rim (that would mean a wider alloy rim) but the wood on the back of the rim is deeper than that on the front. Technically it is a 'thicker rim', but its not what I was expecting.
 
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That wheel looks very smart, JP. With a 15" wheel, do you have a clear view of the instruments, or are the tops of the instruments obscured by the rim? It looks as if they are not obstructed, but the camera is a bit lower than where your eyes would be.
 
Actually hadnt considered the visibility of the instruments in doing this. Doubt it will be a major issue.
 
Hi JP. I was asking 'coz I am thinking about changing out my rather small wheel, which does obstruct the view of the top of my instruments quite a lot. Between 50mph and about 120mph I've no idea how fast I'm going! Well, I know I'm not going 120 here in Blighty, that's for sure.
 
Between 50mph and about 120mph I've no idea how fast I'm going!

I had a 14" Moto Lita on mine and had the same problem. I have a 15" one now and it does help a lot with the speedo and to be honest it does drive better.
 
Yes, the 15" wheel does NOT obscure the speedo at all, so thats good. good run today, only issue is I seem to have dislodged connections to the handbrake on switch - light does not come on at all, which it used to do because the newish boot is too stiff to stay down. that will have to wait until i have another reason to lift the tunnel finisher.
 
Finally got my very dim interior roof light fixed! Struggled for some time to get the lens to turn, to no avail. Mmmm small suction cup? Ah ha- removable gps unit arm with suction cup - fits. After a little wriggling it turned and dropped a few mm, more wriggling and its out. the owners manual says turn anti-clock to release - WRONG ! removal needs it turned Clockwise. Or maybe I am looking at it wrong? now for nice bright LED Festoon!
 
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Yes it is anti-clock. Brain must have been in backwards. LED is in the interior light, but it was just as hard to get the lens back in as it was to get out. I filed some moulding flashes off all the way around, but it was still not easy. its in place, but not firm??? Also fitted a LED in the map light- much better. The clear part is a bit cloudy - are these available anywhere?
 
You were looking up at it , not down. hence it looked reversed....Oh and your turning the inside part not the outside...
 
Does anybody see a problem with fitting a fuel filter in the line BEFORE the Huco pump? Have heard that Huco valves dont like foreign matter. With the pump in the front left corner behind the headlights, connected to the supply pipe with 5/16 hose. its easy to splice in a filter.
 
Some more progress...some forward,some backwards. The new steering wheel is now correctly aligned . No tangible vibration felt up to ~ 110kph, but...the interior rear vision develops a fine vibration - images are blurred. The gearlever at this point is silent, but has a fine vibration, nothing unusual or unexpected. This mirror is the break-away type, with a dipping lever - part 372339 - and is not to be found on the web. The non dipping type 372338 is available. Also the nearside external mirror has gone off its game, and wont adjust to a useful position anymore. further exploration required.
Front door vent seals making lots of noise - can anybody recommend an economic fix please? Prices seem very unfriendly.....
 
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Nearside mirror fixed. some progress with vent seal - Found some 1/8' adhesive backed foam- tried gluing a strip to the seal for the rear edge but it wouldnt stick. Applied it to the rer edge of the glass - should work. The top seal that folds wrongly when closing the vent is pretty much done for, might have to live with that.
Other negative on last trip was very unreliable idle. on checking closely and reading the manual (19.15.02),I notice that I can lift the nearside carb off idle (<1/16) and the offside carb linkage moves, BUT stays on its idle stop. The manual says there is a locking screw that sets the clearance (.006) between a plate and a pin - this screw is tight, but the free play above remains. To me the way the screw affects the clearance at the pin is not clear. Looking at the parts book there is a bush mentioned (607800), that,if worn, could produce the play I am seeing. The carbs have had new jets, needle&seats and choke O rings recently, but I did not dismantle them any further than needed for that work.
Anybody have any ides or suggestions please?
Update - after removing the interconnect link it looks like wear in the bush mentioned above is allowing the plate with the ball joint fitted to move without moving the throttle shaft.
 
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Having trouble finding a new ball joint for the connecting rod...forgot where I bought the first one when the plastic one broke up. So, I adjusted the rod to just take the play out of the offside throttle connection..and the cold start (on choke) is much quicker, it runs better, ans I can ease the choke in sooner - big win. Spent some time running it up to temp and adjusting the idle (again!). Using a timing light that displays rpm showed that the dash tacho is pretty good. Timing is ~9d BTDC, and it runs well, no pinging on 95Oct fuel.
Noticed the cap on (the brake booster) over the air valve(?) was off - little filter nowhere to be seen, so all I could do is refit the cap.
 
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