Next test. Pump is as low as I can get it in engine bay - level with bottom of windscreen washer bottle. Starts and runs fine. On level ground, once warmed up, pump cycles 2-3 pulses, than a pause, then a few more, pause, etc. Parked it nose up on a steepish slope Out in the street. After 4-5 mins of idling, the pump pulses got faster until it was doing a steady rhythm of continuous pulses. Fuel visible in the filter (Ryco Z92) was mostly 5-8mm deep, sometimes lower. Never stopped or looked like it was running out of fuel. After 1/2 hour, rolled back to a slightly flatter area, drove up the slope without issue, returned to driveway, pump pulsing slowed down. Blew compressed air back down the main supply pipe a couple of days ago, no problems.
Thoughts, suggestions please?
Checked the pump valves , no signs of debris, seemed to work fine. Next test. Added some more fuel, warmed up on the slope. Pump started running almost continuously as before. Did 12-15kms around local roads, climbed a steep hill without issue. Stopped at garage to fill up, 7-8 mins, went home via an indirect route. Getting it backed into my garage requires some backing and filling, and just as it was almost done she died....couldnt hear the pump. left ign on, opened bonnet - no pump activity, filter almost empty. Pump was quite hot - not too hot to hold, but a lot more than warm. Broke electrical connection, reconnected, couple of pulses, stopped.
Pump doesnt like getting hot! Let it cool for an hour, pump ran again by itself. Going to try moving it further into the corner behind the lights, behind the washer reservoir.....
Glad you agree Cobraboy! Have ordered a rear mounted Facet, based on Ron's experience. Plenty of hedges around, but dont want to get done for littering. Have informed seller of the problem, just in case they might do the right thing. Might leave it in situ for emergencies...
One last test - get it fully warmed up and let it run at home as long as possible, to see if it stops again and pump is hot again.
Next test - disconnected hose from Carb inlet, spliced in a long hose to the tank filler. Disconnected coil powered the pump and let it recirculate the fuel...for 75 mins. Pump got warm, some 8-10d above ambient, but did not miss a beat. Will try a drive next with the pump hiding behind the washer reservoir, valve end down. Have not been able to find anything that says how it should be oriented..? Previously it was subject to radiant heat from the exhaust, but some 10" away from it.
Today I thought to take it out, get it warm, see if engine heat could reach it and casue a problem. after yesterdays long run cold. Got it running, but rough, nosed out of garage, died. Filter empty, no noises from pump. Fuse? No, 12V going in, nothing happening. It has done maybe 2.5 hrs. Dead as. Seller not interested, too long since bought. Going to open it up now, nothing to lose. Tank type Facet ordered.
Update. Removed pump, removed end cover (1 screw). Nothing useful visible , as 'no user serviceable parts in here'. Applied external battery (13.25v), b@stard runs fine. It definitely had 12V going in while it was in the car - actually tested connection with the pump connected, still showing 12V. Rewired in car, runs.
Now what? Wait for Facet to arrive. Really made rod for my own back by filling the tank the other day.
When it runs, its very bad - lots of soot, wont idle.....suspect I have the dreaded choke seal failure. Nothing coming out the overflow pipes to the front - I assume that an overfilled bowl will drain through these, if there is excess fuel pressure.
Is there an easy way to confirm choke seal problem ?
Edit - maybe not? Is it possible the plugs 5 & 7 being disconnected could make it run poorly? As my missus says, Some days I shouldnt be let out on my own.
Is this rubber part 364396, ands the metal 367312? If I relax the load on the adjusters , without losing the setting, can I remove the metal and replace the rubber part safely? Will I need to provide some sort of load on the base of the screen to keep it in place? Is there anything else I should do while in that far? The rubber under the screen (glass to base unit) looks in poor condition - if I could get one, can this be changed without major disturbance?
I have seen some water ingress in the driver's footwell, parked nose up, in light rain.
As only having a one time only experience of this here is what I found.
Yes you can back off the adjusters and change the bottom rubber gutter, the screen should stay up.
The repro rubber gutter is not the same shape as the OEM ( UK supplied ) Scott's old auto rubber may be ?
Measure the adjusters before you start - do not overtighten, overtightening = cracked screen.
It is possible using a hooked instrument to pull out the remains of the screen to base unit foam and to push up a new strip of soft foam.
It is not necessary to remove any plug leads to carry out this work
Glad about the plugs! I hope to get the rubber from Scott , so that part sounds doable. So the part under the glass is just foam? Is it of a size that I might find in a hardware store, or will I need to visit a rubber specialist?
Cancel that last question, Scott is supplying both! Will update with the fit of Scott's rubber part.
Plan was to slacken the upper nut so the bolt can drop down, but not touch the lower nut, so its position is not lost. Unless that nut is captive? Will measure also.
Sorry, yes your part numbers are correct.
You may find that with a new gutter rubber that you will not be able to get to the original jack setting, it may be too tight. I just mentioned it as a cautionary note. If it feels very tight beware !
The lower foam on mine was very degraded, but intact, I therefore fitted a 3mm x 12mm self adhesive neoprene foam strip on top of the existing to seal the gap. I did note at the time that if I was not changing the screen that I would push new foam up from the bottom.
My screen took some persuading to drop down to release it from the main rubber / bodywork. I reused the old main rubber as the new one did not fit at the top corners.
Thanks. If the jacks havent been adjusted since the screen was first installed their settings should be ok shouldnt they? If adjusted after the rubber has shrunk a new rubber could be too tight, need looser jacks?
Didnt enjoy getting the wiper spindles out! One has its retaining nut turning the whole body, so I had to force it out of the mounting complete with rubber etc. And then wriggling the two spindles on the tubing was an effort. And whats with the nuts all 19mm, not 3/4??
Dismantled the wiper motor part. Couldnt work out why the worm wheel was hard to get out....until I saw it had been rubbing on the body. Oncareful inspection I found the cast body had taken a serious bang, moving inboard at least 2mm, and damaging the side of the cover. Fixed with a few blows, bending the cover. Noted that the wsm says if you cont orient the motor cover correctly it will run backwards - how would that impact anything, seeing as the wipers are moved by the crosshead back & forth? Would they park in the wrong place? The nipple for the delay unit hose was broken off, long gone. Plugged the original hole, drilled a new one with a worn 1/8 drill, slipped in a piece of 1/8 brass tube. fixed with superglue. starting reassembly after I get everything clean.
Motor all back together - using the 'Revitalize..' thread step by step makes it all very easy. Now waiting for new mounting rubber isolators to replace the dead or dying ones. The two sppeds work fine. I found the small spring shown in the parts book in the area, but cant quite see where to attach it so far.
Here is the bottom windscreen rail off the car. I wonder why it was leaking? Not entirely unexpected after 40+ Australian summers.
More odd bits. The screen has been replaced - Australian made marking. The clamps have been assembled differently - the flat plate RTC609 was on different sides of the base unit platform, and small rubber brick shaped pad 4034 (or 367446) was missing on both sides, but I found one on the body, loose. Once its all clean, and I have the new rubber and foam parts in hand will look into replacing the foam under the glass. I marked the screen at the top before undoing the clamps so I know where it should sit when Its clamped up.
Cleaned the old rubber off the steel channel - some rust, but not enough to weaken. Gave it a good wire brushing, coated it with a rust inhibitor. Looks like the rubber had been glued to the channel - necessary ? Any specific glue needed?