P6 Handbrake Problem

Jorgenson

Jorgenson

Member
Good evening everybody,
I installed new brake pads, Rear Girling.
The piston cup I turned back nicely, everything together during installation Fitted wonderful. But now the hand brake is without effect.
Do I still need adjustment for the hand cam lever or something else?

Best Regards
Jorgen
 
Disconnect the handbrake cable from the quadrants on the calipers, and remove the brake discs, then manually operate each caliper until the disc just slides between the pads with the quadrant fully back on it's stop. Once that's done refit the discs, and then refit the cable, ensuring when you do that the quadrants remain on their stops. (Fully off.) If that's not the case adjust the cable until with the handbrake off the quadrants on the calipers are fully off.
 
You don't need to take the discs off. Disconnect the cables from calipers and hand crank them until they stiffen up, then reconnect cables.
 
Can I mediate in this, by saying that in my experience, it is "easier" to get quick
movement of the adjusting system by removing the discs, I still have a couple of
small pieces of hardwood the same thickness as the discs ( from my 1970`s workshop
days) so that you dont have to manhandle a disc each check on the adjustment.
Final adjustment is with discs installed before reconnecting cable.

To each his own way of doing things........ :LOL:
 
Of course Mike. As you say, to each his own & I'm sure Jorgen can make his own enquires as to the best procedures to follow for any particular job, as he's doing here & as I've done in the past. But to move things along a little, maybe reading this thread will help him to decide the best course of action for his own needs: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=10630
Now he has access to the mechanical reason for removing the disc, as well as the convenience aspect that you rightly point out.
 
I've seen that before, but not very often I have to say. I should have that spring if you're experiencing difficulty sourcing one.
 
thank you harveyp6 , but I have a spare spring :)

Question: I had brake fluid in the casing of the mechanism. this is a problem, right?

Regrads Jorgen
 
Yes fluid inside the cover means the main seal is leaking. Remove the piston and look at the bore where the seal runs to check for pitting. They can be resleeved with stainless to stop the problem re-occurring.
 
The Rovering Member said:
I think you'll find a there's a good reason for removing the discs.
Click to expand...

Rovering Member, you or Harveyp6 will probably correct me, but if I remove the outer pad and push the caliper inwards on it's swivel, wouldn't this give the serrated piston the room it needs to self adjust?

I ask because bending back the (already weakened) lugs (again) and then removing the drive-shaft bolts and the disk is such a pain!

Ray
 
harveyp6 said:
You can do the same thing by sliding the outer pad in and out rather than the disc, but the end result is never as good, and it's a lot more hard work because the disc is in the way.....
Click to expand...

Bear in mind that when the P6 was an everyday sight on our roads, an average working day for Harvey very often consisted of changing three sets of rear pads a day. Quite often correcting the faults of other 'Rover' mechanics or the problems they had missed.

Though he'd be far to modest to tell you that himself of course. :oops: :wink:
 
Well put TRM! I've also tried both and can second the recommendation. With the diff assembly on the floor I set it up by removing and refitting the disc while turning the quadrants. I found it much less fiddly when you can yank and refit the bulk of the disc. Given shipping delays to Norway for new lock tabs, however (and workshop facilities issues), I resorted to removing the outer pad to the same end recently. But it's harder to get the pad back in when tightened right up - and line it up with the positioning bolts. Still, nicely doable and the result is good enough for me.

Commenting on the complexity of the rear calipers, my brakes guy once said, having a rear brakes system like that on a Rover P6 is akin to buying a Rolex and sticking it up the bum.

-It's a quote! I would never be that rude on here! 8)

Tor
 
an average working day for Harvey very often consisted of changing three sets of rear pads a day.
Click to expand...

Harvey could do that before lunch ! I wonder what the manufacturer's time was for fitting rear pads ?
 
DaveHerns said:
Harvey could do that before lunch ! I wonder what the manufacturer's time was for fitting rear pads ?
Click to expand...

1 hour 39 minutes.

And if I could pick one job to do day in day out, that would be it.
 
I've just replaced the rear calipers on our V8..good old Ebay..somebody previously had put a 'tail' on the bleed nipple,which makes it much more accessible..good idea,or not?
 
I've never had the need, but if it makes it easier for you then I don't see any problem other than the air is always going to want to rise in that last part of pipe if it's lower than the caliper making it more difficult to bleed out.
 
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