P6 2000TC gearbox replacement

Good morning,

As my manual gearbox is making some noise due to the lack of oil in the past, I’ve been thinking of replacing it in time, somewhere in the (near) future.

However, I heard that in order to swap this gearbox you will have to take out the complete engine. Could this be true??

This is obviously an unpleasant surprise..



Staff member
I managed to get one out when I was a lot younger and fitter, but I can tell you that you can get it out without removing the engine.

I would take the fan off before tilting the motor back though.


Well-Known Member
I had it on authority that it is possible to remove the gearbox with the engine still in situ, but I have not done it personally.
This is the process I was told:

You will need to remove the following:
  • Gear lever
  • Clutch hydraulic pipe or clutch slave cylinder
  • Reversing light switch wires (lucar connectors)
  • Gearbox support bracket (rod through snub rubber and supporting spring - all ordinary bolts accessible from underneath.
  • Prop shaft
  • Speedo cable (easier with engine tilted backwards - see below)
  • Starter motor (mix of lucar and screw connections - again, easier with engine tilted backwards, see below).
After that, unbolt the stay bar at the front of the engine (the vertical round bar that anchors the cylinder head to the front crossmember). That will allow the engine to tilt on the engine mounts - beware of the engine fan coming too close to the radiator. Provided you have somebody to support the gearbox end, you can swing the gearbox down a little to get better access to the bell housing bolts.
With the bolts undone, you can withdraw the gearbox from the rear. But you will need to support the engine at the front to prevent it falling forwards into the radiator. Reattach the front stay bar to secure it temporarily while you work on the gearbox.

I'm fairly sure that's everything, but again can't vouch for the process as I have only removed the gearbox complete with the engine.


Staff member
I seem to remember that when you have removed the engine to bellhousing bolts, you have to spin the gearbox until the starter motor bulge is facing upwards to enable it to come out - although I may have made that up :)


Well-Known Member
I seem to remember that when you have removed the engine to bell housing bolts, you have to spin the gearbox until the starter motor bulge is facing upwards to enable it to come out - although I may have made that up :)
Now you say it, yes, I've heard that as well. And it makes sense as the starter motor bulge is very significant, and the tunnel narrows quite sharply.


Well-Known Member
Last time I did it, a lifetime ago, I was advised by people who had done it.....As well as the items noted above, we removed the engine mount bolts and replaced them with thinner, long screwdrivers. This makes the tipping back easier, and has less impact on the mount rubbers.
Before going this far - drop the propshaft, and check that the nut on the output shaft is tight - I have seen this come loose and cause internal noises that might have been fixed by tightening.


Well-Known Member
I have removed the gearbox in the past on its own, and with the engine. I would say that it really depends on where you are going to work, and what facilities you have available.
The first time i have rented an engine hoist, and pulled the gearbox along with the engine, at home, in my parking space, working alone. I can say that it was relatively easy, but i had to disconnect a few more things.

The second time i pulled the gearbox only, and i also did it alone, at home, in my parking space, with the car supported on stands. This meant that the working height was marginal, and i had to support the weight of the gearbox with my hands in order to pull it out, or align it and put it back in, while i was lying on my back. Mind you, the available space is marginal at best, and depending on the various tolerances of the base unit, it could be a little easier, or rather more difficult. If you feel that you are fit enough for this, go ahead. As others said before, you have to tilt the engine back as far as it will go (for your LHD car the limit will be the rear carb hitting the brake fluid reservoir), and as soon as you take off all of the bellhousing bolts, you will have to rotate the gearbox in order to have the starter motor hump at the top. As you are pulling it out, you will find that the bellhousing hits the transmission tunnel on the driver's side (for a LHD car). As the saying goes reffiting is the reverse of the removal procedure, with the added difficulty that you have to align the input shaft with the clutch, while trying to maneuvre the bellhousing past the edge of the tunnel, and of course not allowing the input shaft to take any weight. Good luck with that!
Of course if the car is over a pit or on a lift, and you have availble someone else to help, it will be significantly more easier.
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Active Member
I have done it both ways on both my '68 2000TC and my '65 2000 SC. With the TC, I found that I had to remove the carbs in order to access the bell housing bolts. On both cars, the exhaust needs to be disconnected. The coolant hoses need to be removed (or at least the top one) and the heater hoses in order to get enough angle on the engine. Of course, that means that the coolant has to be drained. The starter motor has to be removed. In the end it starts to feel like there is not a lot of difference between what you remove to remove both he engine and gearbox together versus just the gearbox. As Demetris notes, working under the vehicle is not easy and getting the gearbox back into position requires strength and lots of patience. In recent years, I have always removed the engine and gearbox together. I find I can do that faster than trying to do the gearbox alone.


Well-Known Member
I’ve found the same as @DAK with my TC. My car is a LHD American model so has the steering box next to the carbs and two servos on the RHS inner wing. Did the gearbox only once and it was painful. Getting enough angle on the engine (I have the VW golf engine mounts which I think are stiffer than factory) plus aligning a box on your chest is taxing to say the least. Next time I had to get in there I just pulled both and had them out in three hours. Admittedly I’d had too much practice by then!
Thank you all for your tips and useful advices!

I need to figure out how I will solve this, I’m not going to do this all by myself I’m afraid. At least I need a ramp and I do not have one. Lying underneath a car with a jack or other devices is no option due to safety reasons. But that’s a personal thing.

Anyway, there is no rush and the car needs some other attention as well.
In a few weeks we will be heading to Hastings with the old Jaguar Series 3, that will be great fun, looking forward to it. Who knows again with the Rover at the end of this year, back to the roots !