Oil filter- just want to buy the right one!

Gents, hope someone can help. In the past I have always needed loads of bits so ordered my stuff from the well known p6 suppliers. I always ordered an oil filter for my 1976 2200tc MAN, and not surprisingly, as these people know what they are talking about, the oil filter always actually fitted! However recently just wanted one oil filter for my car so ordered one on Ebay recently and despite listing the car as above, it did not fit. I know I was sent an oil filter with a 13/16 thread whereas I hope someone can confirm the correct thread for my car is 3/4. Unfortunately every place I now try to buy this item from, when I enter the 2205cc and 113bhp figures, I get told this item will not fit my car. I know about the importance of the the retaining valve in the filter, however if anyone can confirm the correct thread situation and possibly supply some correct part numbers or even better a link to ebay or amazon for a cheapo/ bosh/ fram marle oil filter I would be very grateful. Can see Harvey is on here at the mo, probably knows this info off by heart!
 
there is common misconception on filter thread sizes as ether are 2 sizes. early ones have the smaller size and later engines (SD1 etc) have larger bore. friend with a P5 often had trouble and dealer insisting it was correct only to find it was too big! was only when I found ( can'y say where I did sadly) a link showing BOTH sizes and Clearly stating earlier engines used smaller thread he got it refunded and they managed to order him a new correct size one! ought to be easy ..Harvey will I bet know exactly . think theres genuine mistakes and sellers are convinced it IS right size..until they discover there are 2 sizes for Buick engines. ( no idea size on old rover straight engines )
 
As I remember it, 4 pot engines need a standpipe in the filter to stop it draining back, because it sits upside down in service.
 
there is common misconception on filter thread sizes as ether are 2 sizes. early ones have the smaller size and later engines (SD1 etc) have larger bore. friend with a P5 often had trouble and dealer insisting it was correct only to find it was too big! was only when I found ( can'y say where I did sadly) a link showing BOTH sizes and Clearly stating earlier engines used smaller thread he got it refunded and they managed to order him a new correct size one! ought to be easy ..Harvey will I bet know exactly . think theres genuine mistakes and sellers are convinced it IS right size..until they discover there are 2 sizes for Buick engines. ( no idea size on old rover straight engines )

Other way round, larger 13/16" on the early engines and smaller 3/4" on the later (SD1)

Colin
 
Standpipe or non-return valve. Oil pressure builds up at the same rate with both, in my experience. Two I have used are Fram PH 2821A (with standpipe) and Bosch P4063 (with non-return valve). The Bosch is in my car (2000 TC, overbored to 2.2) at the moment. All the four-cylinder P6s use the same filter fitment.
 
They should have both a drain seal (rubber seal on the outer holes, aka non return valve) and the standpipe. Either alone don't do the job right. Personally I think Fram is a shabby brand, but Wix & MAN are good. NAPA 1806 is another good filter, they are (or were) actually a Wix.

Yours
Vern
 
Back in my TC days we ran into a shortage of oil filters for a while. My garage guys asked another Rover service mob how they got on with the shortage - Easy - wait until we get 2 cars in and swap their filters! One day I went to a Sunday market and found a guy with a case of AC filters with anti-drain valves, so we bought all his stock and had enough to get through the shortage. Some cretin on ebay Oz is trying to sell a MANN filter for SD1 for $90!
 
Does the Mann W930/20 have a standpipe, a non-return valve, both or neither?

The MANN catalogue does mention the anti-drain valve, but not the standpipe. To be honest i don't remember (it's been a long time since the last time that i used a MANN filter...) if there was a standpipe in there. I remember seeing stanpipes in the filters that i was using, but i cannot guarantee if there was in all the 3 types mentioned.

MANN W 930/20
 
I now have three oil filters on their way from inlinefilters.co.uk. According to that website's cross-references, filters with both a standpipe and a non-return valve (as shown in the factory P6 manual) include the Mahle OC132 (as Roverp480 says above) and Wix 51806 (Demetris, Vern), but neither seems to be readily available at the moment. Others are Alco SP-802, which I have used before, and Baldwin BT216. Either the Baldwin or the Alco will arrive from inlinefilters.co.uk.
I shall fit one and see if it makes any difference, relative to the current Bosch with NRV but no standpipe, to how quickly the oil light goes out after a cold start. I would like it to be quicker; I know the warning light is set at an unusually high pressure (18 to 28psi), and my recently-rebuilt engine so far makes no noises of rattling bearings or chains, but anything that might help get pressure where it's needed ASAP has to be a good thing.
 
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Have edited my post since you wrote yours – I looked in the manual and found that 18-to-28 figure. So your dream was a very realistic one.
 
My stock of three filters has now arrived. They are Alco SP-802, with both standpipe and non-return valve so just right for the P6. Just out of interest, I have discovered from the Alco website that the filters are made in Cyprus. Cost for the three was £27.84 delivered, which seems reasonable.
 
Alco SP-802 fitted. Same type of construction as Baldwin as per link above and pasted below:

Oil Filter Dissection.

...so metal standpipe with perforations in its top inch or so, plus NRV. The Bosch P4063 that I removed, supplied by a P6 specialist ('We sell loads of them'), was of course entirely empty of oil having no standpipe. If its NRV has a function, maybe it inhibits the drainage of oil below the filter's input side back to the pump. Which is something, I suppose, but not enough. The Rover factory manual is very definite on the need for a filter with both a standpipe and an NRV. Moral of the story: don't take a specialist's word for granted, and check that the filter offered is actually the right type.

The Bosch filter was in place for only 1000 miles or so, and there's likely to have been a decent residual oil film on the engine's bearing surfaces at a cold start, so I doubt if much, if any, damage has been done. I hope not, anyway. There are no rattles and the oil pressure is very healthy. The next cold start will be the first with the SP-802 since it has filled up, so I'll discover then if the oil light goes out sooner than it did.
 
It does. After it had stood overnight, I have just fired up the engine. The oil pressure light went out almost instantly and the gauge sprang into immediate life. A vote of confidence for the Alco SP-802, which I hope will put the OP's mind at rest.
 
I went around all the local auto supply shops looking for a Z731 (or Z723, slightly shorter) for the SD1 front cover - listed, but dont have one. Had to get one from ebay in the end.
 
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