OCC 469 - restoring & running a "sharkstooth" 2000

regarding paint: I've mentioned this before on another thread but I think it's worth repeating; Martin Brown Paints of Blackpool have a good range of classic paints. They supplied me with an outstanding match to original, far better than my local paint shop and at about the same price.

I've spoken with them, and they can colour match, but don't seem to have the original colours.
 
I've spoken with them, and they can colour match, but don't seem to have the original colours.
I found Tobacco Leaf with the original paint code in their Classic list, and have sprayed 3 wings getting a good match. I appreciate that they won’t be able to do everything but I was impressed with what was listed.
 
Not the greatest of pictures, but I stand corrected.

So there are now three types of hinge pin that I'm aware of. This is a March 64 car.

My April 64 and Dec 64 cars have a different pin to what you'd find on the later cars..

I've just re-read this Chris - your picture shows the same fitting as mine - it's a nut with an allan key socket in it!
 
I've now taken the bonnet off the car & finished stripping the paint from it. I'm just doing a bit more remedial work & hope to spray it in the next few weeks.

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Whilst there is evidence of a poor respray all over the car & under the bonnet, it does appear that the underside bracing was originally black. Where the rivets are still clean, it doesn't look to have been touched:

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In the absence of anyone knowing differently, I'll repaint these black before I do the colour on the top.

Does anyone know where I can get similar sound-deadening to this? It's about 1 inch thick & has a dark/black surface (unless that's just age & muck!) :hmm:

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Could I ask what you used to strip your bonnet.
Tried a bit of paint stripper on my new/old one and it never touched it.
God knows what paints on it.
 
Trawl back through the fb p6 club page, there was a video a couple of months back of a P6 bonnet slathered in paint stripper and covered with plastic sheet, or shrink wrap, or whatever. You could see the paint lifting, it was like something out of a scary sci-fi film. I can't remember the name of the specific product, but I asked the chap whose post it was and he did post the actual brand name.
 
Dichloromethane based stuff, very effective but strictly illegal to supply to the general public :oops:
 
I've been looking for the correct handbook for OCC & there's currently this on ebay:

Manual.jpg

OCC came off the production line on 28 April 1964 & was sold from a dealer on 6 May 1964, so this would seem to be the current one at the time. However, there are various revisions & confusing part numbers. One is in May 1964 with part number 4600. Then there's one in September numbered 4603 IIRC & also grey & red versions.

Confusing....:hmm:
 
This one Stue:

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It needed a few goes but did a good job. I applied it liberally & didn't use any plastic film or anything over it.
For some reason I've only just seen your reply.
That's the stuff I got which I thought wasnt doing anything but after liberally coating my bonnet and watching for ages thinking it wasnt doing anything bam it stripped it well.
 
I've been looking for the correct handbook for OCC & there's currently this on ebay:

OCC came off the production line on 28 April 1964 & was sold from a dealer on 6 May 1964, so this would seem to be the current one at the time. However, there are various revisions & confusing part numbers. One is in May 1964 with part number 4600. Then there's one in September numbered 4603 IIRC & also grey & red versions.

Confusing....:hmm:

Phil,

It's all part of a package. Three small books, and the dealer book. I'll have to dig through my boxes, but had a few dozen of these until the start of lockdown, when I got rid of a lot.
 
I've decided to get my friendly mechanic to do the lower ball joints on OCC. Not only have I had difficulty getting a practice one out, but he has a ramp & a press which should make things a bit easier.

So I can start work on the driver's door, I've swapped it for a series 2 V8 spare door I had. I can now drive it to my mate's & have a bit of a project to go at in lockdown part 2 ;) Apart from rust, the original door has a broken window winder & quarter light pivot, so there's plenty to do.

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he has a ramp & a press which should make things a bit easier.

I had a sort-of ramp...

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And a press,

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Happy days......
 
I've almost stripped the door now ready for repairs & you can see the worst part:

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This is the bottom of the shell:

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It may sound daft to some but I actually have a rust-free set of doors ready for paint for this car, but I'm not using them :oops:. I want to keep as much of the original car as possible, especially with it being such an early one. It didn't have any wings on when I got it & so they're all non-original already.

It's the age-old argument I suppose; 'Trigger's broom' & all that. Plus the fact that P6s could well have had new panels after a few years anyway... However, it's good to be able to retain small details like this sticker at the front of the door:

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This is how the front & rear edges are, which I'm going to tidy up rather than respray:

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Hopefully I'll have some nice pictures in a month or so, although the outer skin won't be resprayed until the spring (& the better weather I hope).
 

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I'm also tackling the quarter-light frame which has broken:

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I've managed to tease the glass out so that I can weld it back together. I realise I'll lose a bit of chrome, but again I'd rather save this piece than replace it.

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It's got the round catch fastening, which are meant to locate on the frame but usually turn when you operate the catch (the reason that Rover changed this for a triangle fitting in later cars). I've tried to remove this so I can tighten it up but have decided to leave it & try & glue it to stop it rotating as I'm concerned I'll break the glass! It's not a major issue either, so not worth the risk.

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