Now, my car wont start

Hello Harvey.
Thank you for your response.

It does not crank. key to IGN-position 2 (the nice rattle the elctric fuel pump and lights, etc.)

If I turn the IGN-Key to position 3 for starting, nothing happens. not even a noise.
My NADA is fitted with the AT-dipstick/filler tube accessible via engine area and manuel choke. (a former owner changend this 2 things in the 80/90ties - maybe changed the BW 35) I filled up the fluid level, but, not crank.

What could be the reason for the failure of the inhibitor switch? BW35 went hot (because to less fluid filled)? Tomorrow i will confrontate ( :evil: ) this mechanic guy who did this disaster on my car.
.
If i am able to get my car to start, I will try your advice (engine braking with "1")
But for now, if it is the inhibitor switch, I have no chance to get out of my underground car park at the moment. Is there a chance to bypass the inhibitor switch - just for a start, a short drive to a another workshop?
thank you
kind regards
Richard
p6B Nada
 

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The Rovering Member said:
What did you do to increase the instrument illumination Richard?

Hello,
with an flexible LED-Light-stripe. (cold light or daylight colour)

(go to conrad-uk.com - search for Flexible LED-Strips with series resistor Blue 16.8 cm / 12 LEDs 12 V/DC)

i will try to explain it, but sorry for my english :D
first, i changed the normal dashboard bulbs to LED-bulbs (with matching size to fit into the dashboard-lamp-sockets) well, it was nice and brighter, but i saw, it could be brighter :) so I bought a flexible LED-Light-band (about 100 cm) (16cm = 12 LED's) - with a matching part to fit into the socket (they did this for me at my conrad shop next door ). I had an second dashboard unit at home (for a test-try). So, do not try it on you orignal dashboard first, because you have to test and check first the best place (for the illuminating effect) for the holes in the black plastic (586042). wrong place means - the light shines beyound the dials - as happend to my first try - and, there was no brightness.

I drilled holes through the black plastic (586042) (drilled in the same distances as the distance of the LED's are on the flixible stripe). so the flixible LED-band is wrapped around the black plastic (586042) with led showing inside thru the holes the dashboard. Until now, it works great. THE LED's do not heat, as normal bulb. But I will fit an extra (jump fuse)(?) for safety reasons. I am no electrican - so I will go on the safety side with an extra fuse. then i fixed the LED-band with an black isolation-tape on the black plastic (586042) (wrap around).

the only problem was the underside of the black plastic, because there was to little space for an extra LED-band. (the problem is, the clear window for the instrument panel with its clips on the underside are in conflict with the LED-band.)
So, its a lot of trying.

I did the same with switch panel (lights, interior lights wiper, hazard) so the white letters on the panel are better illuminated. Also the green switches are shining now more. (to get this result...you have to remove the switch panel, and scratch out a little bit of the black colour (inside) behind the green knobs. very hard to explain....hmmmm... the same on the NADA air con/ electric windows panel)..... it was a lot of work, with a lot of experimentation. but now, the green light is bright and clear as it should be. my opinion. maybe there is easier and better solution out there now (more powerfull stick in LED bulbs) so, check first out for an easier solution. :D :D :D


regards
richard
austria
 
sagegreen said:
If I turn the IGN-Key to position 3 for starting, nothing happens. not even a noise.

What could be the reason for the failure of the inhibitor switch?
If i am able to get my car to start, I will try your advice (engine braking with "1")
But for now, if it is the inhibitor switch, I have no chance to get out of my underground car park at the moment. Is there a chance to bypass the inhibitor switch - just for a start, a short drive to a another workshop?

The inhibitor switch can work loose so it doesn't work, or fail altogether. Try holding the ignition key in the "START" position, while wiggling the gearlever, that's often enough to get it to work. You can bypass it by joining the white/red wires on the switch itself, but I'd advise against it.

How are you checking the fluid level?


Firstly check that the selector linkage is correctly adjusted and is working as it should.

Then check the fluid level as follows:

With the transmission at normal working temperature, the engine idling, and the car on level ground, run through the entire selector range allowing a few seconds in each position to allow it to engage, starting and finishing in PARK, then, with the engine still running walk round remove and wipe clean the dipstick and re-insert to take a level. You will have time for a few quick dips to try and get an accurate level. If you add fluid repeat the whole procedure before taking another level. Use only ATF-G or fluid that meets Ford spec. M2C-33G. DON'T use any of the DEXRON type fluids. A small amount of white blackboard chalk rubbed on the bottom of the dipstick, and then wiped off, dries it and makes seeing the level easier.

The fluid should be red and clean, not brown and burnt.

Check the condition of the throttle bracket bush if fitted.

Check the condition and adjustment of the kickdown cable.
 
Try holding the ignition key in the "START" position, while wiggling the gearlever, that's often enough to get it to work.


Hello harvey! i did your advice and it worked (wiggling the gearlever left to right, hard) so the car, started. thank you for the golden advice.
I recognized, that the eingine starts when the gearlever is between "R" an "N". So. maybe there is some cable (?) not correct fixed.

Today, the car was transported on a trailer to a Land Rover workshop. before he will remove engine and BW 35 he will try to bleed the BW35 and fill up with new oil, he is no automatic-mechanic. maybe we can do the rear brakeband. I will keep you informed. If you have some advice for me / us?

thx, kind regards
Ricahrd
 
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