No power to the engine. Could it be the carbs?

The elbows should stay snug on the carbs if the rubber seals are good on the carbs...

looking good there :)
 
Hi Raf,

To stop the elbows from moving, you'll need to make some suitable brackets as there is nothing ready made for this application. Alternatively, you could use roll pins to locate each elbow with their respective adapter.

You will also need to change the needles now, as sure enough your engine will run much leaner now with those filters fitted.

To install the grommet, you could cut it, fit it in and then seal with silastic. The alternative is to wait till the engine is out and you have enough room to remove the accelarator rod, so you can fit the grommet.

Ron.
 
I also wanted to say that thanks to a some of you here who have kept me going on this project.
I'm by no means a classic car person at all and not technical by any stretch. But I do love
cars and old cars remind me of my dad and his love of cars.

When I won the Rover, I knew this car chose me so I wanted to see it through as it's just a
beautifully made machine. But the weeks she was in the workshop
and the bills that were quickly piling up had dampen my spirit and wallet. Without the help and
kind words from you guys and Al, I was close to giving up as juggling between rentals and feeding 3 kids
I thought this was going to be a costly mistake. But you guys helped me to see this
through, got me to bring her back home and nurse her myself at my own time, own pace, own
budget.

So yesterday I got her started, which is a big deal to me. But much work still needs to be done.
But at least I hope I get her to be on the roads again...where she belongs.
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Hi Raf,

To stop the elbows from moving, you'll need to make some suitable brackets as there is nothing ready made for this application. Alternatively, you could use roll pins to locate each elbow with their respective adapter.

You will also need to change the needles now, as sure enough your engine will run much leaner now with those filters fitted.

To install the grommet, you could cut it, fit it in and then seal with silastic. The alternative is to wait till the engine is out and you have enough room to remove the accelarator rod, so you can fit the grommet.

Ron.

Ron...thanks for taking the time, this is gold. I think the cutting of the grommet is the way to go, can't afford to let any more water in. Will go look for silastic.

On the roll pins, do you mind elaborating that a bit?
 
Hi Raf,

You could drill into the elbow and the adapter just enough so the roll pins remain proud of the service, thus allowing their removal, or you could allow them to be flush, but then you would need to remove the adapters in order to access the carburettor throats etc. Of course it goes without saying that when drilling into the adapters, be sure to only go part of the way through the metal.

Ideally it would be best to place the roll pins on the carburettor side of the 'O' ring that sits around the adapter.

Personally though, I think I would prefer to use brackets just adjacent to the filters.

Ron.
 
The top of the drivers side one has a boss which takes the clip for the auto fluid filler, that will hold that side and a bent strip from the same place on the passenger side to the original peg on the back of the manifold will steady the other side. You will probably find the carbs will howl when you get the revs up a bit the big box was to stop that noise...
 
mikecoombs said:
The top of the drivers side one has a boss which takes the clip for the auto fluid filler, that will hold that side and a bent strip from the same place on the passenger side to the original peg on the back of the manifold will steady the other side. You will probably find the carbs will howl when you get the revs up a bit the big box was to stop that noise...

Thanks guys for the ideas. I have a feeling I might go back to the original canister setup if it gets too noisy. But we'll see. Not a major issue I need to deal with now.
The main issue is that the car does not want to start ever since last Sunday and I do have an oil leak somewhere near the oil filter area, I can't tell where but it drips
down the floor from the bottom of where the radiator sits. Still a mystery.
 
Hi, if the oils blackish then i could be engine oil from around the oil pump gasket or even the
oil filter itself, I have had them leaking from the crimping round the top of the filter even new
ones. If the oil is reddish then it could be from one of the transmission oil cooler pipes on the
bottom of the rad.

Colin
 
colnerov said:
Hi, if the oils blackish then i could be engine oil from around the oil pump gasket or even the
oil filter itself, I have had them leaking from the crimping round the top of the filter even new
ones. If the oil is reddish then it could be from one of the transmission oil cooler pipes on the
bottom of the rad.
Colin

The colour of the oil is weird like thick very dark with a slight hint of redness.
Not black enough to look like engine oil. I think you just gave me a place to look at. I remember having lots
of problems trying to attach the 2 transmission oil cooler pipes back to the newly re-cored radiator. For some
reason it was very hard for the screw threads of each points to bite. Besides I can't be sure if I had attached the right
hose to the right one on the radiator. THere is a longer hose which I assumed to the the bottom pipe and the shorter hose
was attached to the top. Does this ring a bell to you?
red
 
rafrover said:
Besides I can't be sure if I had attached the right
hose to the right one on the radiator. THere is a longer hose which I assumed to the the bottom pipe and the shorter hose
was attached to the top.

It doesn't matter, so as long as there are no kinks in the hoses it will be OK. The hoses tend to fall to the fitting they're most suited for, and when they're fitted that way they look right, the other way they look wrong, because they'll be crossed.
 
Hi, the cooler in the rad is just a loop of pipe the goes up the down inside the tank so there
is no right or wrong way. The fact the drippings are thick blackish red probably means the red
oil is mixing with and washing off the underseal.

Colin
 
colnerov said:
Hi, the cooler in the rad is just a loop of pipe the goes up the down inside the tank so there
is no right or wrong way. The fact the drippings are thick blackish red probably means the red
oil is mixing with and washing off the underseal.

Thanks Colin. What is underseal? What can I do to fix it?

By the way, can I confirm that it is coolant or water that goes through that oil cooler pipes to the radiator or is it
transmission oil?

I'll try to take photos of it tonight and will upload.

Colin
 
Hi guys, as you can see there is what looks like red fluid coming out of the top hose. So the oil goes through the rad right? Can the leak be due to the hose not being tight enough? It was a struggle to put them back.
 

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Hi, the usual place those hoses leak is where the brass fitting goes into the hose, so a small jubilee
or 'O' clip on the hose to increase the grip on the fitting should fix it.

Underseal is the thick black bituminous coating that is sprayed all over the underside of the car, if it
get oil on it it softens and with prolonged exposure can get washed off.

Colin
 
colnerov said:
Hi, the usual place those hoses leak is where the brass fitting goes into the hose, so a small jubilee
or 'O' clip on the hose to increase the grip on the fitting should fix it.

Underseal is the thick black bituminous coating that is sprayed all over the underside of the car, if it
get oil on it it softens and with prolonged exposure can get washed off.

Colin

Hey Colin, thanks mate you've been helpful. I can confirm that the hose is good but it's not screwed well into the pipes,
I think I might have not screw it in straight. I hope I didn't ruin the radiator male thread. Oh man..this car has been such a
challenge and it's my very first car I'm getting this technical. I've never even changed engine oil myself in my life and this
car demands much much more. :)

I've asked Al this question too but wondering if you have any leads. The car would't start after last Sunday. I've put in more petrol
5ltr of it today thinking it might not have enough fuel. I just can't get it to start ever since last Sunday. The batt is good, it cranks well
but it doesn't sound any cylinder is firing, started it several times, tried to clean the dizzy. What could gone wrong? Sad times guys...
 
Hi, a couple of things, If the tank is low on petrol, you say you've put 5 ltrs in but how much
was there in there already? The reserve gives you the last 1½ to 2 gallons so make sure the
reserve lever is pulled out so you don't get confused over that. You may need to crank it for a
little while, with a lovely assistant cranking it over watch the fuel filter to see if fuel is being
pumped up. If it is and still doesn't start then remove a spark plug, is it wet with fuel? If it's
dry then the fault could be with the carbs. If it's wet then put the plug back into the lead and
lay the plug on the engine so that it earths and get your lovely assistant to crank the engine
over again, does the plug spark? If it doesn't then the problem lies with the LT or HT in the
distributor. Do that then come back for further instalments.

Colin
 
Hi Colin, thanks. Cant seem to fit a stanley 3/8 spark plug remover as the hole is too tight to fit the socket.

The other thing is does this atf works?
 

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Managed to get a few lovely assistants to crank the engine while the plug is out. (Had to use motivator to push it in). There is spark. However I cant tell if any fuel is being pumped upwards from the old fuel filter. There is definitely fuel in it but I dont see it moving upwards. Maybe time to replace which looks quite doable for me.

Also you are right. The trans oil pipe leaks because there is no jubilee. Which I think is fixable. I've drained the ATF out. It's really dirty. But wanted to see if the valvoline ATF Type F which says its for ford and borg wagner 35 auto. And if its ok to use, do I just pour it in? Anything steps I need to do? Thx guys as always.
 
Hi, yes, the head around the spark plugs is restrictive. Ideally you need a thin wall socket or
grind some of the thickness off the outside of a plug socket. I have a box spanner with a
socket welded in the end for use with a ratchet.

As for the gearbox oil and the refill I refer you to Harvey,s words of wisdom on all things
gearbox and the procedure for refilling. -

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6163

The only thing I will say is that the g/box holds about 12 pints the majority of which is in
the torque converter and about a couple of pints is in the sump which is what you have
drained out. So you may need to change it a few more times to clean it up. However there
are different opinions about whether you should, because the discolouration of the oil is
down to the suspension of lining material in the oil and the removal of it can tip the box over
into not working properly. But I can see a g/box rebuild in the future, so be led by Harvey on that.

Colin
 
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