No power to the engine. Could it be the carbs?
- Thread starter rafrover
- Start date
classicalgreen
Active Member
sounds as though engine is doing well. NEVER tow an auto ..it ruins the box. correct method is to lift it onto a trailer or.. remove propshaft thus not driving gearbox ( may need repairs or need replacement if done more than a half mile or so but in lap of the gods)
its possible box is an issue .eg clutch /dive band sticking ..not adjusted etc. assume we have correct fluid level? don't forget in a P6 auto we dip oil after it is at normal temperature .then select all positions twice then back into park ..leave engine RUNNING. ( ignore dipstick saying check cold) 2-3 quick dips ought to show correct ( or wrong) fluid level.
have a low power issue with my 1974 auto too but compounded by poor fuel supply.
carbs can be checked and fuel filter will need replacing ..even the one in tank may..? be blocked by dirt/rust if its been standing for a few years ( mien was 13 years in a garage)
refurb of carbs is expensive but you can get a kit and do it yourself .. guy called Harvey is best in world on these boxes. as my gearbox seal leaks ..common where gearbox not used frequently as seal stick and tear when shaft starts to turn.
will be having my box checked over and new seal fitted in next month or so. hopefully see if any change to power.. apparently it ought to pull strongly but i can't seem to outrun a milk float in mine . oh well the joys of ownership. :shock: good luck with your ownership.
its possible box is an issue .eg clutch /dive band sticking ..not adjusted etc. assume we have correct fluid level? don't forget in a P6 auto we dip oil after it is at normal temperature .then select all positions twice then back into park ..leave engine RUNNING. ( ignore dipstick saying check cold) 2-3 quick dips ought to show correct ( or wrong) fluid level.
have a low power issue with my 1974 auto too but compounded by poor fuel supply.
carbs can be checked and fuel filter will need replacing ..even the one in tank may..? be blocked by dirt/rust if its been standing for a few years ( mien was 13 years in a garage)
refurb of carbs is expensive but you can get a kit and do it yourself .. guy called Harvey is best in world on these boxes. as my gearbox seal leaks ..common where gearbox not used frequently as seal stick and tear when shaft starts to turn.
will be having my box checked over and new seal fitted in next month or so. hopefully see if any change to power.. apparently it ought to pull strongly but i can't seem to outrun a milk float in mine . oh well the joys of ownership. :shock: good luck with your ownership.
rafrover
Member
Thanks for the tip on the gearbox. It's been towed twice and it's always on flatbed. At the moment the rad is out so I cant do much to try what you suggested. However the Radiator is out at the repair shop, cant wait to get it back next week. Al has been very kind and helpful with lots of tips on what I can do in the mean time. Will attempt oil and ATF change soon and check on fuel filter and as suggested. Once the rad is back, he'll drop by to help me fix it in and tune the carbs too. So I'm in good hands.
Yesterday while vacuuming the car, found some water dripping onto the driver's floor, don't know where the water is sipping through but I am a worried that this is a major issue. Happened when I wash the car. The floor isn't so rusty as of now but needs to be attended to as its rainy season here in NZ. Any idea what I can do? Also the leather seats are hard to get it back to white. I applied leather cleaner but many of the stains look permanent already. Any advice there? The rubber parts around the windshield look tired. What can I apply to moisten it back and stop it from cracking?
Yesterday while vacuuming the car, found some water dripping onto the driver's floor, don't know where the water is sipping through but I am a worried that this is a major issue. Happened when I wash the car. The floor isn't so rusty as of now but needs to be attended to as its rainy season here in NZ. Any idea what I can do? Also the leather seats are hard to get it back to white. I applied leather cleaner but many of the stains look permanent already. Any advice there? The rubber parts around the windshield look tired. What can I apply to moisten it back and stop it from cracking?
rafrover wrote,...
Hi Raf,
Armor All is excellent for rejuvinating rubber. As you apply, it will be absorbed, so keep applying it so as to keep the surface moist.
Ron.
Hi Raf,
Armor All is excellent for rejuvinating rubber. As you apply, it will be absorbed, so keep applying it so as to keep the surface moist.
Ron.
rafrover
Member
Managed to clear out what seems to be some black sticky sealant that has disintegrated around the hole where it is supposed to close the gap between the pedal rod. Probably not a big job. The body has no big rust, still intact. Is this a job for a general workshop or a panel beater? Or is this something I can fix? If yes, how and with what?
Attachments
Barten
Active Member
Wins do these gaiters for gas pedal.
http://www.winsintltd.co.uk/bushes--rubber-mounts1.html
Its called throttle rod gaiter.
Regards, Barten
http://www.winsintltd.co.uk/bushes--rubber-mounts1.html
Its called throttle rod gaiter.
Regards, Barten
rafrover wrote,...
Actually I would be very surprised indeed if that was the case. I have had a piece of foam rubber stuffed in the hole in my Rover for years now, and water never comes in nor does the foam become wet.
I would suggest that the water is coming in through the heater vents, having travelled down past the rubber seal that runs along the lower edge of the windscreen. The seal forms a gutter that directs water away and to the sides where it then travels down to ground. When the seal is perished, water passes behind it, then down into the heater where it travels through and out into the footwells.
The engine will deliver the most power and torque when the filters reside on the ends of the elbows, as they do with the factory fitted air canister. You can of course remove the canister and allow the filters to sit in the open, but keep the elbows in place.
Some people fit filters directly to the adapters, and although this method is easily achieved, the engine power and torque will be reduced.
In terms of different filter types, you can use foam filters such as those made by Unifilter that will fit inside the canister. Alternatively, K & N or similar can be sourced and fitted.
Ron.
Actually I would be very surprised indeed if that was the case. I have had a piece of foam rubber stuffed in the hole in my Rover for years now, and water never comes in nor does the foam become wet.
I would suggest that the water is coming in through the heater vents, having travelled down past the rubber seal that runs along the lower edge of the windscreen. The seal forms a gutter that directs water away and to the sides where it then travels down to ground. When the seal is perished, water passes behind it, then down into the heater where it travels through and out into the footwells.
The engine will deliver the most power and torque when the filters reside on the ends of the elbows, as they do with the factory fitted air canister. You can of course remove the canister and allow the filters to sit in the open, but keep the elbows in place.
Some people fit filters directly to the adapters, and although this method is easily achieved, the engine power and torque will be reduced.
In terms of different filter types, you can use foam filters such as those made by Unifilter that will fit inside the canister. Alternatively, K & N or similar can be sourced and fitted.
Ron.
rafrover
Member
Hey guys...thanks for reading up on my progress...
I haven't had a chance to get Al down as yet cause I've been super busy the last 2 weeks getting the car up.
Doing whatever I can following Al's advice although I did make many rookie mistakes.
As of yesterday, the car has started. WOOOHOOO...
It's looking really good and I am very excited thinking of the days to come.
So as you know the carbs had been reconditioned and the rads have been recored.
I cleaned up the engine and parts as much as I can. Got some steel brushes to help.
I decided to do away with the air canister and use the elbows as advised
here and put the pod filters from Supercheap branded ones. Looks really ugly.
Problem is, the
elbows have nothing to rest on now, so any ideas? They keep falling over as it's not a snug fit to the carbs.
I might have to look at this Wildcat filter and see if that works better.
There is no power steering at all, wonder if it's due to lack of fluid.
The winguard side mirrors do have some missing parts in the insides, not sure how they should be re-attached. Any
leads would be appreciated.
Lastly, I bought a 1: blank grommet to put around the hole where the gas pedal rod goes through. Any idea
how I should install it?
thanks guys..
Things are looking pretty good guys...
I haven't had a chance to get Al down as yet cause I've been super busy the last 2 weeks getting the car up.
Doing whatever I can following Al's advice although I did make many rookie mistakes.
As of yesterday, the car has started. WOOOHOOO...
It's looking really good and I am very excited thinking of the days to come.
So as you know the carbs had been reconditioned and the rads have been recored.
I cleaned up the engine and parts as much as I can. Got some steel brushes to help.
I decided to do away with the air canister and use the elbows as advised
here and put the pod filters from Supercheap branded ones. Looks really ugly.
Problem is, theelbows have nothing to rest on now, so any ideas? They keep falling over as it's not a snug fit to the carbs.
I might have to look at this Wildcat filter and see if that works better.
There is no power steering at all, wonder if it's due to lack of fluid.
The winguard side mirrors do have some missing parts in the insides, not sure how they should be re-attached. Any
leads would be appreciated.
Lastly, I bought a 1: blank grommet to put around the hole where the gas pedal rod goes through. Any idea
how I should install it?
thanks guys..
Things are looking pretty good guys...
