Newish member...

I put them in as one unit, but it did indeed need to be tipped at a steep angle. I hung the engine and gearbox on an adjustable levelling bar, in turn hooked to the engine crane. The bar made the job quite easy: level when lifting the engine and box over the front of the car, maximum tilt to aim the gearbox into the tunnel, then level the assembly gradually as I lowered it into position. The bar was about £19 on eBay, and no doubt something similar will be available down under.
 
Thanks John and Harvey, I've never heard of a leveling bar, (but I see the local autoshop has one) and I certainly wouldn't have thought of raising the back of the car. In fact my next question was going to be how far did you lift the front of the car....
 
Well engine and box are now back in the car..8 hours according to the workshop manual or 3 months my way....The engine leveller thing certainly made it easier although it wasn't all plain sailing. Numerous small jobs and repairs done. So today tried to drive it down the street for a wee test run..hmmmm. Running extremely roughly, won't idle, feels like mixture is too lean. The carbies were off the engine but i did not actually change any of the settings so don't know why it is running so badly, maybe related to sitting around for 6 months with no fuel in the tank. Looks like I'll have to fiddle with them, wot I was hoping to avoid doing. Then the starter motor died, luckily when I was back in the driveway...But main problem was the gearbox. Took off in first gear but couldn't get it out of first into second. And what i thought was second turned out to be reverse. So a bit of clutch and gear shift adjustment coming up I think.
 
On a more positive note I did manage to sort out the wiring for the alternator conversion which is now putting out a good rate of charge, (about 14.3 volts) at low revs so battery is happy.
 
Running extremely roughly, won't idle, feels like mixture is too lean. The carbies were off the engine but i did not actually change any of the settings so don't know why it is running so badly, maybe related to sitting around for 6 months with no fuel in the tank. /QUOTE]

Did you store the carbs the right way up during storage?
 
Hi Harvey
They were stored upright and I don't think anything was different when i put them back on although i did some repair to the choke cables which are now much smoother to operate. Basically it seems to run quite well over about 12oo revs but very roughly under that. Also not sure that the rev counter is giving an accurate figure - it says 1000 but feels like about half that to me. However i will probably buy a tacho to check that issue.
 
Hi Harvey
They were stored upright and I don't think anything was different when i put them back on although i did some repair to the choke cables which are now much smoother to operate. Basically it seems to run quite well over about 12oo revs but very roughly under that. Also not sure that the rev counter is giving an accurate figure - it says 1000 but feels like about half that to me. However i will probably buy a tacho to check that issue.
Is it possible you have an air leak into the manifold under the carbs?
 
Thanks very much Harvey I'll let you know how it goes. I'm sort of waiting on parts at present, alternator from UK, rubber bits from scotts in Melbourne, engine mounts from local person.
Peter, i see you have acquired some parts from england. have you tried kevin baker in melbourne for parts he is a bit of specialist and has a lot of knowledge on rover bits and pieces, i have purchased parts from him in the past for my P3. regards Derrick.Smith
 
Harvey, thanks for the suggestion about the airleak. i did put new gaskets on the manifold when I reinstalled the carbs but that was about all. I'll try and check that possibility in a day or two. But first the dead starter motor calls......i might put up a separate post about it.
 
Peter, i see you have acquired some parts from england. have you tried kevin baker in melbourne for parts he is a bit of specialist and has a lot of knowledge on rover bits and pieces, i have purchased parts from him in the past for my P3. regards Derrick.Smith

hi Derrick
Is this the Kevin Baker from S E Queensland who sells a lot of old Lucas electrical parts? Can't find a K Baker on the web from Melbourne although I see a reference in the Aust Land Rovers club...?
 
hi Derrick
Is this the Kevin Baker from S E Queensland who sells a lot of old Lucas electrical parts? Can't find a K Baker on the web from Melbourne although I see a reference in the Aust Land Rovers club...?
Yes peter, he has moved from maleny to melbourne some years ago. you can find his details on the rover P4 drivers guild site in victoria. regards Derrick.Smith
 
So car is finally back on the road with the assistance of a new (secondhand) gearbox. Only regret is that i spent months trying to adjust the old gearbox when it obviously needed a major overhaul. Very lucky to track down a good secondhand one. Of course up until a week ago couldn't actually drive anywhere due to long lockdown situation in NSW but am now trying her out on some longer runs. Seems to be going quite nicely although I think carbs need to be adjusted better. Now if I can only get the heater rebuilt....Considering buying a carb balancer or maybe the Gunson colourtune kit, although all these type of products seem to get very mixed reviews.
 
G'day Peter. Rovers not that big in Canada, they love their Austin Healeys and Jags. This Canadian chappie on Youtube does good SU info, albeit on a Jag. He has another video on the Gunson, I'll just give you the channel name, you can filter by SU. Living With a Classic

Find "Tuning an SU", and listen, he repeats often that it's a "baseline setting", and it's the very last step tuning wise.
 
G'day Peter. Rovers not that big in Canada, they love their Austin Healeys and Jags. This Canadian chappie on Youtube does good SU info, albeit on a Jag. He has another video on the Gunson, I'll just give you the channel name, you can filter by SU. Living With a Classic

Find "Tuning an SU", and listen, he repeats often that it's a "baseline setting", and it's the very last step tuning wise.

Hi Brian, It's a great Youtube channel. I used to own a 71 Jag so he hit the right soft spot with me! His piece on tuning the SU carbs is very good, easy to understand and points me to getting a tool to measure the air intake, ( although I know about the rubber hose technique). My summation of his method is: 1/ Separate the carbs, 2/ Balance the air intake using the measuring tool and idle adjustment screw, 3/ Set the mixture on each of them by raising the piston a little and adjusting the air screw 4/ Reconnect the carbs, test drive and check again. Only other adjustment on mine would be the choke screws, (fast idle screw).
I'll let you know how I get on with it.
all the best Pete
 
Hi Brian, It's a great Youtube channel. I used to own a 71 Jag so he hit the right soft spot with me! His piece on tuning the SU carbs is very good, easy to understand and points me to getting a tool to measure the air intake, ( although I know about the rubber hose technique). My summation of his method is: 1/ Separate the carbs, 2/ Balance the air intake using the measuring tool and idle adjustment screw, 3/ Set the mixture on each of them by raising the piston a little and adjusting the air screw 4/ Reconnect the carbs, test drive and check again. Only other adjustment on mine would be the choke screws, (fast idle screw).
I'll let you know how I get on with it.
all the best Pete
BTW I think he's Swedish not Canadian?
 
Hi Brian, It's a great Youtube channel. I used to own a 71 Jag so he hit the right soft spot with me! His piece on tuning the SU carbs is very good, easy to understand and points me to getting a tool to measure the air intake, ( although I know about the rubber hose technique). My summation of his method is: 1/ Separate the carbs, 2/ Balance the air intake using the measuring tool and idle adjustment screw, 3/ Set the mixture on each of them by raising the piston a little and adjusting the air screw 4/ Reconnect the carbs, test drive and check again. Only other adjustment on mine would be the choke screws, (fast idle screw).
I'll let you know how I get on with it.
all the best Pete

I'm very glad you liked iit. Don't forget the "blow out" after every adjustment.. That suction tool is called a "Uni-Sym", you might get a cheapie on ebay or amazon. Oh yes carb oil. I think he says something about that! SU recommend use of the correct grade carb oil, and filled to the proper level.

Damper-Oil sae-grade 20.

See this one! Make your P6 look the mutts nuts with these 4 steps. I completed second stage during the week. Wow!

 
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Ok haven't watched the paint restoring thing yes but can report on the tuning....So bought the balancing tool thing the chap uses. Took the aircleaners off. The usual moment of truth... there are two studs that the aircleaner bolts go into right on the edge of the carby air intake. So the balancing tool thing won't fit over the air intake...so we have one unused balancing tool....
 
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