New Project begins, 1974 P6 3500 V8

More progress, firstly is the red circled hole factory ? there is one on the other side, drain hole perhaps, if not then I'll weld it up!.
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More update pics, started on the NSR inner wing, final part of the 'weldathon' , almost same repairs required as the other side!

I'll use a smear of filler on the boot lip/floor repairs to hide the welds.
The welds look solid, certainly better than I could produce.
As for the filler, I am leery of using that, simply because it is a water absorber of note, wouldn't a seam sealer be a better option? You can brush it on and smooth it to the point where it's hardly noticeable and you get the security of knowing it's going to stay dry and solid.
 
Hi John, get where your coming from & thanks for compliment on the welding too :)
I'll go over the welds with red oxide before adding the smear of filler, I will use seam sealer but on the welds that cannot be seen once its back together & where I have removed the old sealer whilst cleaning off the old under seal, the whole lot will be painted in red oxide then sprayed with Gravitex stone chip, this is stuff is amazing, goes really nice and drys fairly hard but still acting a resistant covering, then painted over in satin black paint. Some more progress pic's! Cheers Damian.
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Unstable John is quite right, I second his notion, seam sealer (Bilt Hamber, sticky 'orrible stuff!) is preferable to filler.
Good work going on there Damian. Nice when the exposed cavities look as good as that. Better than opening a can of worms. Crack on!
 
Red oxide painted and now the stone chip sprayed on, next will be a coat of satin black & then on too cleaning all the suspension/rear axle parts prior to them receiving a fresh coat of black metal paint.

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urm... I was but budget ran out and time scale, I will fit them though as matter of safety, budget is being refuelled with my big 50 birthday on Thursday and kind donations as gifts, so water pump, 2 x upper ball joints, set of spark plugs n hopefully bumps stops !
 
Its indeed an 'orrible' job Stue but also satisfying! I used a blow torch to soften it up & then removed with a scraper.
 
Good Monday morning all, more progress pics, same old cleaning, painting, re-bushing & refitting! have new bushes for bottom arms, fitted new pan-hard bushes, will replace the top links one too. Diff cleaned up well, new oil and will refit with cleaned rear caliper's. Getting there bit by bit :)
Be good the get it back on all four wheels before Christmas!
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Looking very nice.
Hopefully mine will get to look the same soon although a bit weary of painting or stonechiping anything now its getting colder.
 
Painted & new bushes fitted to the lower arms, will strip n clean the rear calipers & fit new seals before bolting the diff back in as so much easier to fit them back, still need to change the diff oil too! After this I'll get the lower arms/springs/shock bolted back and then start on the drive shafts, upper links & de-dion tube clean n paint with black hammarite.

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Rear Calipers now fully refurbished, wasn't as horrible as I thought, hadn't done this since about 2005 on an older P6 & then it wasn't as in depth as this rebuild.! They came apart with out any fuss, even the two hydraulic pistons popped out with ease! All part cleaned, new rubber seals, painted the two covers in met blue, a can I had in the garage seemed to fit the bill!.
They went back together fairly easily which was a relief, used high temp brake grease on the moving parts (not the hydraulic pistons), lots of pics taken during disassembly which helped in reassembly. All seem to work well on the hand brake leaver, I have to say that Richards (Quattro's Sparky) step by step guide back in 2010 (I think) was a great help!! . Of course the final test will be when I get them back on the car and can test properly, fingers crossed no leaks..!

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Been a short while since I've updated, car back on its wheels & I even drove it about 2 miles before the radiator gave up during the xmas break lol.

So lots of work done, fuel tank was removed again & I used a refurb kit from frost which is excellent stuff. Engine is now out & having broken head bolt removed ( which also has an broken easy-out tool in it) :mad:. But the engine was very poorly so its having a re-bore, new pistons, new rings, all new bearings, polished crank, top of each bank skimmed ect. I'll strip the engine bay for cleaning & painting before it goes back in. Have a good 2nd hand radiator so hopefully all will be good again in a few months. If the offending bolt cannot be removed then the block will be big paper weight. I have refurb the manifold & carbs with all new rubber O rings, seals, gaskets etc, good clean & paint just need to replace one of the throttle rods. last pic keeps me going when its all going wrong lol, been 8 yrs since I sold it ! the 7x15" Cragar 500P wheels will be a goal reached (as in a yes from the wife) The metallic blue is similar to what I'll paint it next year hopefully.

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More progress with cleaning, painting various under bonnet components, power steering pump, brackets etc.
Rocker covers, air filter housing (yet to be done) sprayed in same colour, all done with Halfords rattle cans, Audi sparking grey with fuel, oil proof lacquer.
Fitted the uprated oil pump kit from Real Steel, did this mod on the red P6.
The engineering shop have successfully remove the broken head bolt/broken easy out:) so can now start on the rebuild back into a short block!
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You’re doing some great looking work there! I’m noting diff and rocker cover paint jobs, and will send you a PM about those Cragars. Lovely to read up.
 
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